john gettis

<p>Looks like a Lumedydne.<br>

<a href="http://www.lumedyne.com/">http://www.lumedyne.com/</a><br>

John</p>

<p>I think that the key is here is that it works with film in it. Om-4 cameras read light off the film plane for exposure. I believe that Olympus measured the refection of light off the film and found that it was pretty consistent. The film pressure plate is darker so the camera is trying to compensate for this. If you do find that either it or the camera need repair I can recomend John Hermanson for that task. John Gettis</p>

<p>I would stick with Paramount cords and I would also carry at least 3 and test them before each job. John</p>

<p>If in Southern California You might try this link<br>

<a href="http://www.bargaincamerashows.com/">http://www.bargaincamerashows.com/</a><br>

<a href="http://prettygirlshooter.blogspot.com/">http://prettygirlshooter.blogspot.com/</a> has a story on what he found there. Look for a older Post on July 12th Warning his Site is NOT SAFE FOR WORK. I have yet to make it there Hope this helps John</p>

<p>While googling this I found a reference to the fact these Units are only available in India.<br>

<a href="http://www.doorhof.nl/blog/index.php?topic=2058.30">http://www.doorhof.nl/blog/index.php?topic=2058.30</a><br>

You scroll down towards bottom to get to statement<br>

Hope this helps John</p>

<p>What type of px-28 battery. I seem to remember the Bronica did not like the non silver versions especially the alkaline one. One other clue is that if you are buying Duracell batterys check the back for a series of number and letters it will look some like 8j**** the letters and numbers after the first are not that important they are a factory location code the Number is the year the battery was made and the letter the month a=January B= Febuary and so on. Hope this helps John</p>

<p>Usually when I need a manual for an old piece of photography equipment this is the first place I check <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/">http://www.butkus.org/chinon/</a><br>

I checked though and they do not seem to have a copy of what you need<br>

John</p>

<p>When I was shooting with the 200b I was using a Bronica Etr I would read the distance off the lense after focusing and then use that information to set the lens opening when I first started I had a typed list of setting vs distances on back of stobe head. At the end I knew it by heart. Also used to prefocus lens and preset exposure for that distance then just move foward until focus was correct then snap photo. John</p>

<p>I had a Norman 200b for about ten years in the late 70's to 80's that I used to shoot weddings with. I have setting in front of me what I remember as being called a Curtis flash valve which added to the adjustablity of the Norman flash. Rather then some electronic device it was a couple of circular pieces of heavy duty plastic with pie shaped sections cut out you turned it one way or another limiting the light that escaped from the refector. I went to Normans site to see if they still made it but could not find it. John</p>

<p>have you thought about a Norman 200c or 400b</p>

<p>I tend to agree with you on the 28mm. I have two lenses for my Olympus cameras in this focal length one a Zoom another a fixed focal length. It seems that it is either too wide or not wide enough for the way I see. Not real fond of the 35 mm focal length either seem to use my 24,50 or 100 more often John</p>

<p>I had a Bronica ETR and a ETRs about twenty years ago. Sold them to payoff bills when I got married and still miss them. Here is a link to a site where you can download manuals if you did not get one with the camera. <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/bronica.htm">http://www.butkus.org/chinon/bronica.htm</a><br>

Hope this helps John</p>

<p>While you are there check out Montana De Oro State Park John</p>

<p>If you have access to a ac power pack for the flash you might plug it in and leave it on. I picked up a used 283 once at a great price (free). It was not working at all with even fresh batterys. I plugged in the ac power supply and left it on for several hours now it works fine. John</p>

I use a 285 for a background light and another one for a hairlight with my Genesis 400 studio lights.

I would however suggest that if you are going to use a slave to set them off you check it out if at all possible as I have two peanut slaves that do not work at all with either my 285's or my 283. John

Check out Amherst publishers

http://www.amherstmedia.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT

Another good book may be hard to find and that is a copy of Kodaks "Photographing Baby and Child"

Not sure of where you are located but in the US before I buy a book I try to get a look at it either at a local bookstore or better yet my local library has a service where I can check what books our library system has along with the nieghboring county and have them sent to my local library for me to check out. John

No the mount is the same as the Elinchrome strobes. I have two and I like them. The only thing is I wish that the mount to the light stand was a little more robust. Umbrellas are no problems. Its the 36"x48 softbox stress's it a little. If you buy the softboxes from Calumet you might look at this rather then the one that is on the page with the strobe. This one http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/RM6445K/

I hope this helps John

I have two Calumet Genesis 400 strobes that use a jdd 150 watt modeling light. I have also purchased a couple of Halogen 150 watt bulbs for use in a normal lamp when they were on clearence at Target a couple of months ago. I bought them because the ones Calumet sells are $25 a piece. How ever they are a little longer and stick out beyond the front edge of the reflector and I don't use them. I keep them in my kit just in case the real ones burn out. I think that they would work fine in my softbox. I tend to keep an eye on clearence sales at my local stores. I picked the bulbs up for less then $2 when I think the normal price is about $5. I have also bought a couple containers of small plastic clamps that I use to hold muslin backgrounds on the background holder for a couple of bucks. John

Yes that was the one. They seem to be a cross between some kind of paper and fabric. I put them on the strobes and played with them for awhile shining them at a wall (about 10 mins) they did not show any signs or discoloration in that time. My units use a 150watt modeling light and I had them turned down to about 1/2 power most of the time. I would take some photos with them but when I take out my lights the family dissapears into the wood work John

I bought a couple probably from the same seller you were considering. On my lights the bare reflectors have hotspots with the diffusion socks they don't. Have not used them since getting them to take photos though. John

Check and see if there is a lab near you that develops 120 film and see if they can give you a empty spool. Another place to ask would be a camera store selling used equipment. Hope this helps John

Try rebooting the computer if you have not already. You may also want to try a different cable and usb port on computer. If you have access to another computer you may also want to try that. I had a similar problem and was able to get most of the data off the drive but not all of it. Hope this helps John

I have a similar problem in that I cannot get either of the 285hv's that I own to trigger using the peanut slaves. I have even tried holding them in front of my 400watt studio strobes and even that has not worked. I am looking for my receipt and am going to contact Wein and see if it is just that they are defective. John

If you were shooting digital most image editing software will let you look at the exif data that the camera puts in the file. John

I remember reading about this years ago. As Eric stated they calibrated the meter and installed a filter that was supposed to make it react closer to who B&W film did. John