Paul Lewis1664881697

<p>I started with two Nikkor lenses on an FM2n, a 24mm AIS and a 50mm AIS (both very fine lenses, by the way, probably better than the AF-S versions that I also have), and used them for a couple years. When I bought an F4s, I purchased the AF-S D Nikkor 20mm/2.8, 24mm/2.8, 50mm/1.8 and 85mm/1.4 lenses. I found myself using the 24mm and 85mm the most. I tend to prefer wide-angle, but never owned a 28mm lens. I'm surprised that there isn't more mention of 24mm here, but I guess that's due to this being a rangefinder forum, and 28mm is a very popular popular focal length in pretty much all systems, while I rarely see 24mm used with rangefinders. I rarely use a 50mm lens, and probably use the 20mm more. I find ways to use the Nikkor 85mm/1.4 due to it's amazing optical quality... what a lens. Not using it would be a crime.<br /> So, if I were to use a single lens with my Nikon system, I'd take the 24mm lens.<br /> My choice for a single lens on a Leica body would be a 28mm lens. <br /> BTW, I don't have strong enough curse words for zoom lenses on film cameras. I never use them.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone. Just bought six rolls of Superia 800 and will try at 800 and push to 1600.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I'm going to buy some Superia 800 and either Superia 1600 or Natura 1600. I am more interested in shooting in available (low) light and will give these a shot. I can handle the grain, but I have to find out if the color palate works for me. I may also push Provia 400x (from the freezer) to 800 or 1600.</p> <p> </p>

<p>After a lot of searching, I'm still confused....</p> <p>1. Are Superia 1600 and Natura 1600 the same film? If not, what's the difference?</p> <p>2. Are either films available fresh/in-date in the U.S.?</p> <p>3. Are either films available fresh/in-date in Japan? I believe Natura 1600 is, based on Yodobashi's website.</p> <p>Thank you!<br> Paul</p>

<p>Thanks! I'll probably have to acquire one from eBay. I'll expect to have to inspect and possibly replace the seals. Never did it before on a camera, but I know that foam is a real mess and I need to be careful.</p>

<p>Should I assume that any Olympus XA that hasn't had light seals replaced will need it? Anyone make kits? Difficulty?</p>

<p>How about a black vinyl wrap?</p> <p>Or better yet... a pink vinyl wrap.</p>

<p>I haven't shot on a Minolta SRT in many years, but I know there was a discrepancy between the mercury original and the zinc-air battery replacement that I used. I always had to compensate for the inaccurate meter as a result.<br> I don't have an answer about why things might be different now, but the battery/meter combo may be a start. It's possible that you are under or overexposing the film and the scans are showing more grain when levels are adjusted.</p>

<p>I believe that the Minolta SRT used mercury batteries. The replacement battery doesn't provide the same voltage as the mercury originals. When I used an SRT about a decade ago, the meter was always about a half-stop off due to the voltage difference. Could this be what you are experiencing? What battery are you using?</p>

<p>Hello, I need to disassemble an Arkay stand ASAP and since I can't find anything on the web and the company who now owns Arkay hasn't returned my phone call, I thought I would check here to see if anyone could help. I have an older Arkay stand that is approximately 8' tall and looks mostly like this (except has black wheels):<br> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images500x500/Arkay_60242401_6MS_III_Mono_Stand_Sr_187579.jpg</p> <p>Should I detach the cable to release the counterweight? How do I remove the pole from the base? Thanks for the help!</p>

<p>While I haven't had any work done by Frank Green, I have had Ilfochromes printed in the past, and let me tell you... there is nothing like it. Unbelievably vibrant color and high contrast. Love Ilfochromes!</p>

<p>I appreciate all the responses and find the information very interesting. While I'm very curious about film history and the various uses of film, this particular roll won't be used by me. I'm too busy working on other projects to mess around with it at this point. I'm willing to pass it on at my cost ($6 postpaid) if someone wants it.</p>

<p>The examples provided by the OP appear to be slightly underexposed. Use a more contrasty slide film, expose for your highlight and have two or more stops of difference between your highlight and shadows, and you should be able to get a similar effect without Photoshop manipulation.</p>

<p>I don't usually touch old film, but I found a roll of this recently: Kodak Traffic Flow Recording Film, 35mm, 36 exposures, SO-370. What is this? I can't find anything online. The only thing it says on the box is this: "This 35mm b&w negative film is intended for telephone traffic monitoring only and is not recommended for conventional photography." Telephone traffic??? The box is dated Jun1980.<br> <br />If I shoot this, what ASA would you recommend, and could it be processed in a common developer? I wouldn't do it myself, but would drop off at a lab.</p> <p> </p>

<p>99% of the film that I shoot is slide film, and that hasn't changed over the past ten years. I love to create positive images that I can hold in my hand, look at through a loupe, or project. <br> <br />If you are going to shoot slides, make sure that you are using your meter correctly and accurately. Slide film has limited latitude.</p>