subbarayan_prasanna

<p>The Praktica also pioneered an electronic shutter in the last of the Nova 1 series around 1968. Those cameras are rare and are quoted for a very high price on Ebay. Years later, I think the same shutter mechanism with bladed steel curtains was used in the B-Series. Some of those designers were highly reputed and dedicated people. sp.</p>

<p><strong>Rick Hi!</strong><br>

I saw a similar one advertised on Ebay UK without the model number, such as in PLC2. My guess is a couple of possibilities. <strong>(1)</strong> One is that some local trading company in Europe bought these in bulk in the expectation that they will monogram it suitably. But then they might have decided to sell the same as it was. <strong>(2)</strong> The second possibility is that the top of the camera was added later on from an earlier model such as the early "L". Some of the early Ls did not have the model number.<br>

Both are guesses. I have no evidence. So both speculations could be wrong. Ah! just to remind you that the PLC2 also has a bridge circuit and can work with 1.5 Volt torch cells, easily. I recall that you had some experience with a PLC3. My PLC2 works that way. Some others may need a little re-calibration.<br>

Yes Sir! as you mentioned, I miss JDM on such issues! The kind of question you raised makes this Forum very interesting. JDM might have added some humorous note too! Best, sp.</p>

<p>There are a number of fine lenses made by Zeiss Jena and Meyer Optik in M42 mount. Many others are copies of Zeiss design. JDM would have recommended both Meyer and CZJ lenses. This is where we miss him!, sp</p>

<p>Stunning contrast and tones. The Angry Car looks almost 3-D. Thanks for the post. sp.</p>

<p>Lovely camera and pictures. I have a few Fed 1s and Zorki 1s of the same design. I do not think that design has been overtaken yet by any RF. Thanks. sp.</p>

<p>Yes! me too; miss him a lot. He was the Dada of this Forum. sp.</p>

<p>Congratulations on a lovely camera and lens. Most lenses of this age will have a good amount of fine dust deposited on the iris blades. These are not visible to the eye. They may not show any oil or grease and will appear normal. In most of these lenses the rear element, single or group, can be removed to expose the Iris. Use a cotton swab or Q-tiip dipped in petrol or Naphtha and clean the Iris blades. work the blades after each round of cleaning and drying the solvent. After several rounds the Iris will work smoothly. You will see the grime coming out on your Q-tips until the Iris is clean.<br>

If the deposits are heavy this may take a long time and a number of rounds. I have spent a couple of hours on each lens, on several occasions. Please do the cleaning with a gentle touch. The blades are very thin and will bend easily under pressure. Good luck. sp.</p>

<p>The colors look good to me, especially in the "Parking Lot." Thanks for the post. Keep more coming. sp.</p>

<p>The Fed 2 is one of the best Soviet Era cameras form Kharkhov. I have restored a few of them. The N26 is a very good lens [said to be of Zeiss Tessar Design]; it does well with even portraits and close ups, as it does with landscape shots. Easy to dismantle and clean too. Nice work with them in B&W. Thanks for the post. sp.</p>

<p>Very nice images <strong>Brad</strong>! I perceive that you are facing the same problems that many of us do with high contrast scenes, that of balancing the highlight areas with the dark ones. I did some reading on this and found that films are made to take a maximum range of only 5 basic gray shades, on a gray scale of 1 to 10 [old fashioned]. So it was suggested that I choose scenes that would fall within that range of 4 or 5 gray shades.<br>

In addition, your pictures show a high contrast range of tones. The old time photographers used less contrast to depict such scenes in gray. Many in the 19th Century used a soft Sepia for the landscapes. I like your pictures, anyway. Thanks for the post. sp.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The shutter cloth at speeds 50; 25 & Bulb stucks a bit, but still.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I agree with the above comments. You have stated above that the the slower speeds are sticky. When you open the bottom plate you will see two set screws and nuts that anchor your shutter spindles. Drop some petrol [gas] on these nuts and let them be absorbed by capillary action. After a few seconds try working the shutter. The sticky shutters will work smoother. You can also reach those anchor points on the top and bottom of spindles [on both sides of the frame] from the lens mount opening and drop some petrol [or Naphta]. Then blow clean with a blower. Everything in the shutter should work smoothly after this. You may add a drop of lubricant watch oil to the same spots.<br>

In addition check also the channels through which the shutter lead metal-laths run. if they are dirty then that could retard the curtains. All the best. sp.</p>

<p>Lovely images, as usual <strong>Rick</strong>. The Camera looks very elegantly finished, too. Thanks for the post. sp</p>

<p>I am not familiar with this camera <strong>Cory</strong>. But, your pictures are lively and crisp. The lens seems to have good rendering capabilities. Thanks for the post. sp.</p>

<p>Lovely camera set and lovelier pictures. Zeiss and Drawbridge qualities mingle so well. sp.</p>

<p>Nice images and a handsome camera. The only camera I had of this size was the Yashica 124G. I enjoyed it for awhile and then sold it. Thanks for the post. sp.</p>

<p><strong>Jon!</strong> many of us are here, at least, partly because of your presence and others like yourself. You may not be able to contribute daily or frequently. But please do think of participating now and then. I myself do that only when I have some thing interesting. I hope you are keeping good health. Best regards, sp.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Schneider's inexpensive, classic Xenar asymmetrical, anastigmatic, 4-element, 3-group lens design was introduced in 1919, and is largely unchanged from the original <a title="Zeiss formula" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zeiss_formula">Zeiss</a><a title="Tessar" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tessar">Tessar</a> formula. They feature an angle of coverage of 60-62°. [From Wikipedia on Schneider lenses]</p>

</blockquote>

<p>A Zeiss Jena Tessar will be a very good option. They are not that expensive. A good sample will give very good sharp pictures, though the Tessar may not be as good in Bokeh formation [OOFs rendering] as the Zeiss Pancolars, the Myer Orestons and the Zeiss Biotars. Best, SP</p>

<p>Nice restoration work. A little paint on the hood is all that may be needed to give it a new look. Congratulations on your effort and enormous patience and tenacity. sp.</p>

<p>Thanks <strong>Rob</strong>, they are discovering new things about the past each year! <strong>Rick, Tony</strong>, I think the Lydith is a good performer. I need to use it more. Thanks <strong>Bill, Mark, Mike</strong>; i am glad you enjoyed the viewing. Regards, SP.</p>

<p>Thanks <strong>Paul, Andrew, Tony and Donald</strong>; it was an awesome experience that people could have hand crafted a whole city in this manner some thousand years ago. <strong>JDM</strong>, I expected that you might enjoy this, the subject being right up your alley. What I like about the Exaktas is that they don't let you down. I have not lost even one frame till now using the VX series. I am not surprised that they were the top professional choice before the advent of Nikon F. Miles Upton says that if you do a good CLA job on the Exakta it will last another 50 years!</p>

<p>Thanks for viewing and your comments. I hope you will enjoy the views and the ancient art forms. sp.</p>

<p>The Eyemik lens seems good. I need to test it more on different modes.</p><div></div>

<p>Each panel seems different on a closer look. The coordination must have been mind-boggling.</p><div></div>

<p>The master builders seemed to have a sense of perspective in most of these temples.</p><div></div>

<p>You climb up the steps to get to the main concourse.</p><div></div>