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subbarayan_prasanna

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Posts posted by subbarayan_prasanna

    Praktica Nova

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi <strong>Andy</strong>! here are some answers to your queries.<br>

    <em><strong>First of all, which model of Nova is this?</strong> </em>It is the first model of Nova introduced after the Praktica FX3.<br>

    <em><strong>I think it's a B</strong>. </em>Yes it is a B, stands for the Meter in German. <br>

    <em><strong>but I've read that there are several variations of the Nova B. </strong></em> The other version is of Nova 1 series;they had a cam based non-rotating more modern shutter.<br>

    <strong><em>Second, how do you set the shutter speed?</em></strong> Yes; in general it is recommended to set the shutter speed after cocking the shutter fully.<br>

    <strong><em>Third, the lens is an A. Schacht Ulm Travegon...what kind of quality does this lens consist of, or is it a cheap substitute for the nicer Carl Zeiss lenses?</em></strong> It is very good lens. The Flektogon 35mm from Carl Zeiss Jena is highly reputed. But the West German Schact Ulm is not a cheapy either, though not as expensive as the Schneider.<br>

    It is a good camera; not popular in the US but very popular in the UK and Holland. It will make cracking pictures. These selenium meters work well even after seven decades since manufacture. You may check with this site, below, for details on all Praktica models.</p>

     

    <h3 id="yui_3_10_0_1_1444014774830_196"><a id="link-1" href="http://ri.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A2oKmM146hFW53sA84_nHgx.;_ylu=X3oDMTByN2RnanRxBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA3NnMwR2dGlkAw--/RV=2/RE=1444043513/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.praktica-collector.de%2f/RK=0/RS=j9ZTaL6jLK7PnZbdEAMwA3Qne8o-" target="_blank" data-bk="5049.1">Mike's <strong id="yui_3_10_0_1_1444014774830_195">Praktica</strong> Home</a></h3>

     

    <p>www.<strong>praktica</strong>-<strong>collector</strong>.de <a href="http://ri.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A2oKmM146hFW53sA9I_nHgx./RV=2/RE=1444043513/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2f106.10.171.80%2fsearch%2fsrpcache%3fp%3dPraktic%2bcollector%26type%3ddrg_ggbg_15_18%26param1%3d1%26param2%3dcd%253D2XzuyEtN2Y1L1Qzu0F0CyByDtCyCzz0E0CzzyE0CyBtB0FtDtN0D0Tzu0StCtBtCtAtN1L2XzutAtFtCtDtFtBtFtDtN1L1CzutCyEtBzytDyD1V1StN1L1G1B1V1N2Y1L1Qzu2SyCyE0C0DyC0EtD0DtGzytByC0CtG0CyD0F0CtG0CzzyCtAtGtD0F0FtBtByD0ByE0Fzyzy0E2QtN1M1F1B2Z1V1N2Y1L1Qzu2S0DtCtC0Czz0F0F0FtGzyyBzzyDtGyEyEtA0DtG0A0Ezy0BtGzyzz0E0FtD0EzzzytA0A0EtA2QtN0A0LzuyE%2526cr%253D228139147%2526a%253Ddrg_ggbg_15_18%2526f%253D7%2526cat%253Dweb%2526sid%253D58f410cba70072992b891494943ff6b0%2526sesid%253Dbe84452ea71ab304248fc56e00aadc01%2526ip%253D117.192.218.163%2526b%253DChrome%2526bv%253D45.0.2454.101%2526os%253DWindows%252BXP%2526pa%253Ddregol%26hsimp%3dyhs-fullyhosted_003%26hspart%3diry%26fr%3dyhs-iry-fullyhosted_003%26ei%3dUTF-8%26u%3dhttp%3a%2f%2fcc.bingj.com%2fcache.aspx%3fq%3dPraktic%2bcollector%26d%3d4862359745725311%26mkt%3den-IN%26setlang%3den-IN%26w%3dH-1JaL7kPgijJUfZ3JKjEGqj0BrSy3u_%26icp%3d1%26.intl%3din%26sig%3dNTpBxxmbt3cgyD7qp8_m2A--/RK=0/RS=C85BGyGtJwNjnkhjMrxPDTBC0Sw-" target="_blank" data-bk="5050.1">Cached</a><br>

    I hope these answer your queries. Best.<br>

    SP.<br>

    </p>

     

    <p> </p>

    Kiev 4 Repair

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi! Vivek!<br>

    I just read this post. The Kolkata people can do a good job on your Kiev. I do not work on Kievs. In Kolkata there are two famous places for repair of cameras. One is <strong>Kamera Werke</strong> owned by <strong>SG Yazdhani</strong> and the other is <strong>Latif Precision Works</strong>. The latter has a web site that you can open and browse from Google, easily. I usually send my impossible repair items to Mr Yazdhani. You may call their company between 10:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. Good luck.<br>

    <strong>Mr S.G.Yazdhani</strong><br>

    Messrs. Kamera Werke<br>

    38, Lenin Sarani</p>

    <h2>Kolkata 700 013</h2>

    <p>Ph: 2249 6348</p>

    Such a Pretty Thing

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Nice acquisition <strong>Rick! </strong>I have a few of these that I rebuilt to function like new. Very nice modular design with sub-sytems that work in tandem but do not interfere with one another. So if one goes under repair the others still continue to work. Have Tessaras, Pancolars and Orestons to go with these. Have not been able to acquire a Biotar. But have Helios in M42 to compensate. Even the ones made in the 1930s work well now, after some 80 years! Looking forward to your pictures. Best. SP.</p>

    Pentacon 135 2.8 zebra .. Fungus or..

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p><strong>Hi Buster L</strong>,<br>

    The lens shown in the picture looks good to me. It does not look like fungus; looks more like dust and some discoloration in the cement on the edges. It is a good lens. I would rate it on a par with <strong>CZJena Sonnar 135mm</strong>. Though there may be some difference in the rendering modes between the two. You may try the site on <strong>MF lenses</strong> for a comparison of sample pictures taken with these and other equivalents.<br>

    These lenses are also easy to clean, even if they have fungus in them. Usually the front group and the rear group are fixed in separate tubes with the iris between them. They are easily dismantled with the use of a lens spanner on the ring nut from the rear. If there is fungus then use a solution of Household cleaning Ammonia and Hydrogen peroxide [50-50] mixed just before application. Use a Q-tip or swab to clean. The fungus will drop off. Any etching will remain. I do not perceive any etching in your sample. Then, clean with with plain water and blow dry. You can do this at home. A spanner will cost you about $10 to $15 on Ebay. The Chinese make some good ones, sold from HongKong. Best wishes. sp.</p>

    From the Incognito Praktica

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Simply beautiful <strong>Rick</strong>! I cannot stop admiring those designers <strong>Rolf Noack</strong> and colleagues in Dresden who produced these L-Series Prakticas. They had to overcome many hurdles regarding supply of materials components etc. Inventively, they adapted mild steel as the major material for this camera shell as well as many levers and gears. Possibly, this is the only camera made of mild steel. its metal bladed shutter [of Swedish steel] is another first in the camera industry, I believe, followed by Copal's of Japan.<br>

    Despite all these handicaps they are reported to have turned out one Praktica every 30 seconds from their factory. There is a sad/poignant You-tube documentary on the closing down of the Pentacon factory.<br>

    Meyer and Zeiss Jena produced excellent lenses for this Series of cameras. Thanks for the lovely pictures, as sharp and crisp as the Zeiss Pancolar!, Would you say? Keep more coming of these. SP.</p>

    Looking for a new camera...

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>You may also think of <strong>Fed 2</strong> with the same retractable lens. It is only a few millimetres longer than the Fed 1 or Zorki 1. But it is back loading [not bottom loading] and very easy to handle. Another advantage is that its range finder is almost twice as wide as the one in Fed 1. It was one of the most successful models of the Fed series. It also has diopter adjustment for the view finder. Its View finder and RF are combined into one. Good luck. It would also be less expensive than the Fed !. sp.</p>

    50mm CZJ Pancolar f/2 ?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>As <strong>Marc</strong> said above. Congratulations <strong>Rick; </strong>that is a superb lens. I think that the Pancolar was a take off from their old Biotar also f/2 but 58mm in focal length. They seemed to have given the design and production rights away [of the Biotar] to the Russians [KMZ et al] for the Helios and focused on the Pancolar.<br>

    The Meyer Oreston was of a similar design with the front and rear groups symmetrically placed in relation to the center. The Pancolar F/1.8 came into production along with the Meyer Oreston, mainly for the RTL with internal aperture control. All the f/2 Pancolars have external aperture control, suited to the VX series.<br>

    However, the Pancolar had a little spacing in the rear group and made it a little asymmetric. The Oreston focuses down to 13 inches from the film plane [claimed as due to the symmetry]. In my experience it is as good as the Pancolar and the Helios [ne' Biotar].<br>

    Those Exaktas are a delight to restore. I have restored a dozen of them, recently, to work like new! I hope you have acquired Miles Upton's book on the Exaktas by now. I found it a very detailed reference and repair manual and I learned a lot from it.<br>

    Best wishes; looking forward to your pics with the Pancolar. sp.</p>

    Can I use Window cleaner to clean fungus from old manual lenses?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Hi <strong>Kenri</strong>! you can mix Household Cleaning Ammonia and Hydrogen Peroxide 50-50 and swab the fungus. The Fungus will drop off. Then clean the residues with filtered water and blow dry. Mix the Ammonia and Peroxide just before you apply it on the glass. The mix will be effervescing with nascent Oxygen.<br>

    If there is etching it will remain. If you cannot get Ammonia [blue print shop will sell some. Surgical instruments shops also sell some] you may use Colin. It does contain Ammonia. <strong>Colin</strong> is almost the same as <strong>Windex</strong> in the US. Best. sp</p>

    Purchasing an old lens in good condition / OIL

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Sharon Hi!<br>

    That is an automatic aperture lens; it is Meyer's equivalent of the Zeiss Jena Sonnar of the same focal length. The oil will collect dust and eventually make the aperture blades sticky. When that happens they may not snap back to full open position on release. However, this can be cleaned easily. The rear group of the lens is in a small sealed tube. it can be removed by un-threading the ring nut that holds it in place. Once removed it exposes the aperture blades. Apply Petrol or Naphtha or lighter fluid with Q-tips and swipe the blades several times and let them dry. It would remove the oil. I think that you have done this before on another lens. The lens is a very good one; you may check sample pictures in MF Lenses site if you have not already done so. The lens renders the OOF planes [bokeh!] beautifully. The price seems good/reasonable [especially if the postage is not too high] to me. Best, sp. </p>

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