panoramic pei

<p>Or sell it & collect a small fortune. 35mm Reala film is in high demand, only available fresh from Japan presently, not given away at around $10. -$15. a roll.</p>

<p>Thanks John, Actually what you explained makes perfect sense, although with a Phototherm Processor I could only save the Fixer. It isn't possible to stop the unit while processing unless the Phototherm Processor detects a fault, it will stop on it's own. If I save the Bleach from the Phototherm Drain Outlet, the chemical saved will be contaminated by some funky 20 year old chemicals probably sitting in the exit drain pipe of the unit. I could set the level for 125 ml minimum for one roll if I wish. Holes in the drains? The drain I use is for a washing machine, it is very old anyways, the owner, (not me, renting) should have replaced the drain in 1938, if it isn't like Swiss cheese by now, it will never be. The Kodak Flexicolor Bleach RA Kodak mentions nothing about regenerating, since these chemicals are usually used in Mini Lab units. Replenishing is necessary & mentioned since the Bleach sits in the Tank of the unit. This is why I want to dilute the Bleach (as I mentioned originally) & dispose after 1 shot, then I will respect the times & step procedure of the Phototherm Processor without any contamination. My cost for the Bleach was $27.00, if I dilute as mentioned 666 ml Bleach 333 ml Water to make 1 Liter would give me 6.5 Liters of working solution in total.</p>

 

<p>I photographed with Velvia 100 & 50, processed my own E6 with the 5 L Kit from Kodak with a Phototherm.<br /> Unfortunately these days are gone, presently, I would need to purchase a large unheard amount of E6 chemicals individually or Kits from Europe, VERY Expensive with Shipping. Besides the price of Transparency Film has skyrocketed in the past year.<br /> I would recommend switching to Ektar 100 Pro negative film, the price of the film is reasonable & the C-41 process can be found more easily, even Kodak recommends the switch with Ektar 100 & openly admits this the alternative for photographers shooting Transparencies on the Ektar 100 Description Ad.</p>

<p>The availability of C-41 Chemicals in Canada left me with the only one economical option, it was to purchase the chemicals from my local Photo Store/ Mini Lab, especially where I am located in Canada.<br /> I have found various posts where some were using Mini Lab Chemicals to process their films although the info I would need was lacking. My main concern is the Kodak Flexicolor Bleach RA which is developed as a Stock (No dilution with water) in a Mini Lab unit at 100 degrees F for only about a minute, I will develop on a Rotary Processor therefore would it make sense to dilute the Bleach, 666 ml Bleach with 337 ml Water to make one Liter? Develop the Bleach at 100 Degrees F for 6;30 minutes, after I would Dump it (1 Shot) since I can't save it on my unit anyways (only the Fix can be saved). I realize that over Bleaching will not be a issue, I am concerned about under Bleaching with this idea. Kodak recommends the other Bleach III for Rotary Processors therefore I am out of luck with the Kodak info. Bleach is Bleach for C-41, it can be done but how for it to be economical as a one shot process?</p>

<p>Nothing could be worse than being located on PEI, $50.00 just to get off the Island (Bridge or Ferry Fee) to civilization, still no Lab which offers free baloney on your negatives in sight.</p>

<p>I agree with Peter, photograph with normal B&W Film, Develop it yourself to avoid the complications & costs involved with specialized Films. It is also fun & rewarding to process yourself, keeps me off the streets also. Besides normal B&W Films, Ilford FP4, Delta or Kodak TMAX 100 or 400 are much sharper than the dye based Films as XP-2 or Kodak CN.</p>

<p>Not that I noticed any, although when you check out & select the shipping method be sure to select Purolator, it will automatically give you your total in advance including duties & taxes. Stay away from the other methods of shipping, they will cost you more than the items you purchased. I am sure it beats the driving & expenses for gas & time, now if Adorama would jump on the Purolator Bandwagon, I may buy from them also, some Adorama labeled products.</p>

<p>Agreed David, although I needed to purchase some rolls of Rollei IR 400, Ilford Photographic Paper & other items that Henry's do not even carry therefore B&H was my only solution without spending a truckload of cash for half of the items I needed in return. Especially now, B&H offers Purolator delivery service to Canada at around $19. with taxes & duties in. Although ground service I still received the parcel in 3-4 days to PEI.</p>

<p>It isn't easy to obtain Photographic Chemicals when located in Canada. Retailers in Canada charge 4 times the price compared to US pricing. The only supplier in the US whom ships to Canada via ground shipping with Purolator is B&H at a reasonable rate, although most Photographer's Formulary chemicals are usually shipped in 2-4 weeks. I will test your recommended processing time with the Ilfosol 3 at 1:14 for 10 minutes since the Photo-Therm is programed for 75 degrees, it never fails to beef up the contrast especially with the continuous agitation. I appreciate the response & sharing the recommended development time.</p>

 

<p>Another thought, I would at times bring rolls of really cheap Agfa Negative Film ($0.99 a roll) before I purchased a Digital Camera, photos taken for posting on Ebay, nothing really important, to Shoppers Drug Mart. ( I do not know if they exist where you are located) They would process the Negatives Only for $2.50 a roll. Then I would scan them to post on Ebay.<br>

Then again, why just hand over Film that costs $6.00 plus a roll to outfits whom do not have much a clue to why they are there. That is when scratches (the feed for the Film Processor does that, I would get my share before processing my own) & exhausted chemicals due to less daily processing with less quality control for small blotches on negative film. They can not afford to replace exhausted chemicals as frequently as before, when the C-41 processing demand was high, before the Digital Age.. It is not cost efficient, they prefer to lose the little customers they have slowly (due to poor quality) but surely & eventually shut down, than constantly lose money on a daily or weekly basis. With Labs constantly shutting down, it won't get any easier for anyone shooting film. </p>

<p>Just a added note: since it is B&W Film, I could print 8 X 10's with my B&W Durst Enlarger on Ilford Photographic Paper. Smaller than 8 X 10 wouldn't be worthwhile pricing wise, better you print with a Inkjet Printer from the scans. Hopefully you have a minimum of 7- 10 rolls to develop. You can view my E6 processing in my Gallery of images once you have clicked on my name to review the quality of my work.</p>

<p>Where are you located in Canada? I am located on PEI. I could process them for you with a automated Photo-Therm Film Processor, I would have to purchase the chemicals, since I only photograph Transparencies (E6) & the less complicated to process B&W Film as Fomapan, Ilford FP4 etc. Depending on the amount of rolls you have & the cost of C-41 chemicals will determine the possibilities of processing your rolls of film. The best I could do is scan them afterwards, so that you could get them printed, or print them yourself with a Inkjet Printer.</p>

<p>I photograph with Velvia 50 & process the E6 myself, I usually underexpose 1/3 - 1/2 stop for the best results with a Bronica ETRSi & 135mm Panoramic W Back.In my Photo Gallery you could view some results, direct sunlight behind me does not affect my images. I usually spot meter the very beginning of the sky just above any land or water formation. Test a roll, & write down the readings & take it from there. You may find a very slight color shift even if your Film was stored properly.</p>

<p>I selected Ilfosol-3 Developer since I process with a Photo-Therm Film Processor, One Shot & a Liquid Developer is a ideal solution for a B&W Developer in my case. I couldn't find any recommended development times anywhere for the Rollei IR 400 & Ilfosol 3 Developer combination including the Mass Development Chart on Digital Truth. I plan to dilute the Developer at 1:14 since the development temperature is standard at 75 degrees F with the Processor, to insure the development times are longer than 3 or 4 minutes.Has anyone any recommendations? I could test for development times, although for the price of films these days, hopefully someone has some suggestions as a starting base to share.</p>

<p>I appreciate the above excellent advice.<br>

I will try to open the Clear Filter to measure the actual filter to see if I could obtain the same size IR Filter (also including the thickness measurement) from SRB. Thanks again</p>

<p>There is a previous post from 2006 with some ideas but no conclusion.Hopefully someone has a proven method to adapt a IR Filter to a Bronica ETRSi Zenzanon 30mm F3.5 Fisheye Lens. Bronica does supply 4 - 32.5mm Filters (for the back of the Lens), although all are useless to use with Efke IR 820 Film. It is a requirement to place one of these Filters on back of the Lens at all times to achieve accurate focusing.The Front of the Lens has a built-in Pedal type Lens Shade therefore placing a Cokin X-Pro Filter 007 in Front will not work due to light leaking in from the sides of the Lens. There are no threads to accept screw on Filters on the front. <br>

Any ideas to where I could find a 32.5mm IR Filter equivalent to a 87 Filter?</p>

<p>You always have the option to purchase the Bronica Ei Winder & all your problems will be solved including the blackout after releasing the shutter which is the not so great feature which annoys me the most.</p>

<p>I was pleased with the results of my first roll of Efke IR 820 Film with the Tiffen 87 Filter. Exposure was accurate with the Sekonic Meter modified as mentioned above. Sample image:</p><div></div>

<p>Final sample...</p><div></div>

<p>Here is another sample, I could only post one at a time.</p>

<p>Finally the Pentax Optio I-10 is a very good Compact Digital Camera but not great. No Digital Camera is. I find the colors from Digital Cameras similar to Digital TV, these products produce somewhat fictional but fun colors. I still use Film for serious Photographic assignments.<br>

Here are some samples, please judge for yourself,<br>

Cheers</p><div></div>

<p>I just purchased a Pentax I-10 on Ebay for $129.00 which I found reasonably priced (for Canadian prices).The purpose for purchasing this digital camera was obvious, mostly style. I will receive the black model which I intend to remove the black vinyl leatherette to replace it with a blue color lizard skin which I have left over from covering some ETRSi Medium Format Equipment previously.<br>

Yes, I am a Professional Photographer although this Digital Camera will be a unique keepsake which will function perfectly for Family Photos or any other photos which do not merit the price tag of $15.00 a Roll for Velvia Film. I expect above average results with this Digital Camera, I did view some image samples here:<br>

http://www.neutralday.com/pentax-optio-i-10-image-samples/<br>

The images appear fine for my purposes & I do like the saturated color. I will post some sample images when I receive the Camera. Hopefully this helps.</p>

 

<p>It all depends on your interest level, if you feel that if the Lab work will be rewarding & it will improve the quality of your portfolio, you have time to process film & you feel it will also be fun, go for it. I purchased a Photo-Therm Film Processor SK-4G from a University going Digital for $500.00 in excellent condition since I knew Labs would raise their prices in the future, especially in Canada. I do not shoot that much Film on a yearly basis, only in summer, although presently my Film Processor is paid for with the savings from processing E6 at $15.00 a Roll previously. Processing at $34.00 a Roll, any decent Film Processor will be paid for in a couple of months, easily. The E6 process costs me about $2.50 a Roll. I agree with Robert Lee, a Flatbed Scanner isn't expensive although are of excellent quality for the price, you will be able to cover your various Film Formats for scanning.</p>

<p>I agree with Larry, I believe this is leftover film that did not pass through some serious quality control. If they are planning to continue to manufacture it, it will not do very well as is. It has a slight Magenta cast & more grain than anyone would want for a 100 ASA Film. I purchased some Kodak EB for a very good price & the results are much better than the Agfa. Too bad, I was a Agfa Slide Film Photographer when the quality could be compared with other brands of Slide Film, years ago. Although it would hurt to experiment with one roll, it may suit your needs for certain photographic assignments. 500 Km is a long walk, bring your Camera with you.</p>

<p>A Kodak Technical Rep. once attended the Photo Shoots & checked quality control in the labs years ago. I was a Commercial Product Photographer utilizing a range of Film Formats from 35mm - 8X10 for printing catalogs & everything else for Mattel & Furniture & other various companies. No internet then. His advice was 15X the Film Format, therefore a 24x36mm Frame would be 14.4" X 21.6" or round it out to 16 X 20 with a excellent quality original. Presently, I basically use the same rule for Scanning originals also.</p>