pat_krentz
-
Posts
228 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by pat_krentz
-
-
Years ago Ilford came out with their archival process, part of which was to fix for 1 min.(I use 1.5) with constant agitation and then place the print into a 1% solution of baking soda which neutralized the hypo for 1 min. I have used this method since 1984 and never had a problem with residual hypo, and my hypo last much longer. Pat
-
I use Panatomic Aerecon II film #3412 rated at 40 ASA and developed in pyro-triethonalomine? for 4.5 min. @ 68-F after a 5 min. water soak. It works good with other pyro developers. The thickness is 2.5/3 mil and printing times are noticably shorter and it has extended red sensitivity which helps with portraiture. Pat
-
Kodak says that Tri-X 320 in 4x5 has a seven stop range, let me know where I can get some of that 10 stop stuff. Pat
-
What distance are you trying to focus at? Pat
-
Check Fred's Newsletter #47, also see if you can find his video, he does not use a gray card, and he always uses a meter for film test, get the Zone VI Workshop book. Pat
-
I have a Wollensak 240 mounted in an Alphax shutter on my Speed Grafic and it works just fine I can close the camera without removing the lens, the only thing that had me worried for awhile was mounting the shutter to the lensboard but it worked out. Pat
-
B&S has a website that answers all those questions. Pat
-
If they don't have to stay in one strip, develope normally and then put the thin neg's in a 1:12 selenium x 3:00 minutes, it will bring up the thin ones about 1 zone. Pat
-
I beleive that Bergger makes a liquid emulsion also. Pat
-
I develope Tri-X in PMK,SD-1 and ABC pyro all the time with hangers and a tank I built myself,(much better than tray development)and never have a problem with un-even development, streaking or under-development. Pat
-
Use a pyro developer. Pat
-
As I remember The Keepers of Light had a section on that, I don't think it is still in print but you should be able to find a copy at the library. Pat
-
2 drops of Photo-flo 1200 in 16 oz. of water works well, then rinse for about 20 seconds under running water, then shake quickly, and hang to dry. Pat
-
This is an open statement, I have never heard of or seen a b/w neg that was treated with selenium to have a fungus. Maybe it depends on the dilution/time.Pat
-
You could do the Zone VI film and print test or just cut the ASA by half to ASA 200 and shoot and roll and see what developes. Pat
-
A presoak with VIGORIUS? agitation for the first 30 seconds and each minute thereafer for 15 seconds for 5 minutes. Pat
-
I had this happen once years ago, I pre-soak everything for 5 minutes and use only distilled water for all photo processes. Pat
-
I wipe my film with moist sponges and then hang it in a closet and shut the door, no photo-flo or any thing like it. No trouble. Pat
-
I just wipe my film with moist sponges and hang in a closet with the door shut for a couple of hours, no dust. Pat
-
You might check to see if your darkroom timer light is spilling light onto your developing tray, also, with PMK why use a stopbath, just go directly to the fixer. Pat
-
Read The Zone VI Workshop, and do the test, and then you will have the correct information for your equipment and printing, no more dancing to another man's tune. Pat
-
I agree about getting rid of the Dektol, use PMK in which case you don't need a stop bath, or HC-110 and use household vinegar 1:15, you are just stopping development, not a tank. Pat
-
It could be that you were not focused correctly, you need to place a piece of white paper in your film holder and then place the film holder into a corner of your easel, then focus your slide onto that paper, turn off the lights and insert film or place another film holder in place on the easel so that it won't slide and then expose your slide in 1/2 to 1 second strips, develope and pick the one with the best contrast. Pat
-
Read The Zone VI Workshop by Fred Picker, you can get it through your local library or buy it at B/N, very simple and easy to understand. Pat
How do you Highlight Fog
in Black & White Practice
Posted