pat_krentz

I can/would buy a used Zone VI for a lot less than $1000 and get a

lot better camera from what you are saying. Pat

The bi-post contacts are for triggering the old bulbs, you might

contact Bill Cameta and see if he has the old flash guns and

reflectors. If you want negs get Polaroid P/N 55, if not get 52, but

film is cheaper (Arista 125/400) from Freestyle Sales in L.A., about

$40 per hundred and look around for another lens with a pc flash

sync.It might be a good idea for you to find someone who is willing

to teach you film developement basics, it will save you a lot of time

and trouble. There is nothing easy about film developement, if it was

there would not be so many posts here about how to do it. Pat

Sounds like you might have some serious heat fogging. Since the FP4

works well, get rid of the garbage, stick with what works. Pat

Invest a little time in research of developers or find someone's

who's work you respect who uses the film you want to use and then

pick their brain about the developer they use and how. You will spend

one to two years (depending on time invested) learning the use the

developer of your choice with all the varitions that are possible. I

have my favorites, SD-1 Pryo, PMK Pyro, and Weston's ABC Pyro. Good

Luck with your research. Pat

You might try conducting your own film speed test, and then you would

know the correct speed and procedure for your equipment. Pat

Renaissance micro-crystalline wax from Light Impressions. I live in

the desert also and it works fine. Pat

They are very good, high quality, but they no longer have a lifetime

warrenty. Pat

I would also suggest doing it on Azo single wt. paper, broader tonal

scale and easier to print through single wt. Pat

I don't know what your definition of "neat stuff" is, but get hold of

Ansel's books, he use a lot of ortho film, I have used it myself and

liked it. It is not red sensitive which makes foliage light in prints

and makes for flat skys. The one thing I really liked about it was

that I could develope by inspection under a 7w red safelight or a 15w

up higher. You might want to try using PMK Pyro as a developer and

you could use Gordon Hutchins starting times for Tri-X. Pat

The Speed Grafic and the Graphflex are two different camera's, and

while I have never owned a Graphflex, I do have a Speed Graphic and a

23 holder and a 22 holder both of which fit correctly when the

groundglass back is remove and locked into position with the sliding

locks. Maybe someone out there has a Graphflex and could measure the

back for you. Pat

I agree with Ellis, Hurrell's photo's were more than pretty faces &

clothes, though that helped alot. You should go back and study his

techniques of posing and lighting and don't forget the makeup.

Remember that his were "Glamour" shots, not just someone in period

clothes. I did like the first lady in Portraits 1 (top left) looking

at the screen. Pat

With that many pinholes I would opt for a new bellows. Then you won't

have to worry for years or lose a good neg. Pat

You could try using an albumen coating as a base for the light

emulsion, it is much easier to coat with and a lot less trouble than

other coatings. Check the Albumen & Salted Paper book, also the

Keepers of Light book. If you can't find them contact me and I will

look it up for you, which will include a receipt for custard (give

you something to do with the yokes) Hope you have time and patience.

Pat

You can use any size lens you wish if you are willing to move your

tripod so that your subject fills the viewing screen in the manner

you desire. Pat

Photography on Bald Mountain should be able to repair your shutter.

Pat

Your bellows draw is 12.7 inches, for a 1:1 inlargement you would

need a lens not longer than 160mm, so unless you plan on using an

extended lens board your 150mm is about your limit. Pat

To my knowledge DOF is determined by focal length, lens stop, the

distance from the lens to the point focused on and the size of the

circle of confusion, and the depth is greater with shorter focal

lenght lens than a longer one. Shutter speed has nothing to do with

DOF. This is according to Vol.1 of the Navy traing manuel 1944 Ed. Pat

I use a 75w Plant Gro bulb (ultra violet) in a 11 inch brushed

alumniun reflector and the paper under a 11x14 sheet of 1/4 inch

plate glass to contact print on Azo and develope in Pechham's Amidol

which will keep for 2 weeks in a sealed container. I adjust my

exposure so that I can develope for 5:00 with contineous brush

agitation, there is a depth to the prints that cannot be achieved

with just 2-3 minutes of development. Pat

Bruce Barnbaum in his book Art of Photography suggests 1:150 for

10:00 @ 68-F for 45 film rated at 25 ASA. I would suggest that you

get hold of the book, it is informative. Pat

I agree with Kevin, I own a Soligor digital spot modified by Zone VI

the Zone VI meters cannot be beat. Pat

I don't know about 45 techpan in Rodinal, since I use PMK or SD-1,

but a few years back when I use to do a lot of 35mm I used Rodinal

1:150 and it was very good I don't rememer the times though. I would

start at 10:00 and adjust from there. Pat

Like Cesar said, if bellows draw and subject to film plane distance

is not a factor then you should be able to use either lens. Pat