zensphoto

<p>I have a Canon 60D I do not have a shutter in my camera, when the mirror lifts up the sensor is exposed and the shutter is really just some electronic settings in the sensor that creates the image. Put the camera in to Sensor cleaning manual mode and the mirror with lift up and all you will see is the sensor. The only noise you should hear in the camera is the mirror moving up when you take a photograph, in Live View you see through the sensor because the mirror lifts up and you are now looking only through the Sensor. Thus, If the Live View can't see any photographs then guess what, I have a feeling your Sensor is dead. Canon repair would be able to better assess your camera. You can send it to them by first going here and opening up a service request. Go <a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/standard_display/support">here</a> for Canon's service page. <br>

Canon can look at it and tell you what needs to be fixed. Usually, they will be happy to tell you how much it will be, If you feel the cost to replace the sensor is to much you might want to look at the Canon 60D or a used Canon 50D from Keh or ebay etc. </p>

 

<p>I believe this will fix the problem and it is my opinion like it or not this is all I can offer from my experience developing film.</p>

<blockquote>Replenish the developer before you put it in the next tank and see if your problem goes away when you move your developer and fixer from one tank to the next tank. I have a feeling it is going to work every time for the OP.</blockquote>

<p><br /> <em><br /></em>Nice talking to you Jay, See ya on the boards.</p>

<p>I am not arguing the fact that 120 = 35mm 36 exp = 4 sheets 4x5 = 1 sheet 8x10. I agree with you right there it is a good rule of thumb. What I do disagree with is the fact that you can develop one roll of 120 in one tank, pour out those chemicals and then immediately pour the chemicals right into another tank and you can develop another roll of 120 in a completely different tank and not experience some kind of loss in development. Each black and white film has a different content of silver on it, for instances and I feel like I keep repeating myself, EFKE 25 ISO 120 which you can also expose at 12 ISO 120 if you choose to, has more than double the sliver content on the film than say Kodak TX-400 120. The more silver you have the slower the film. The less sliver you have the faster the film. The OP isn't taking about 35mm film in this post, The OP is talking about why he has a band of either under developed film at the top of his roll of 120 film. What can cause this issue? Moving the developer from one tank to the next can cause this problem. The OP has already told us that one of the films he has photographed with his camera hasn't had the band at the top of under developed film. Regardless of the size of the film we are talking about developing a roll of 120 Medium Format film and why one roll developed and the other didn't after we pour in the chemicals from one tank to the next. <br /> <br /> You're trying to tell me, I can develop 2 rolls of 120 with the same 590cc of developer and come out with the exact same results when I have tried to do this before and the second roll just doesn't develop the same way until I pour the developer back into the 1 gallon I have made, or I use the developer like a one shot and pour in another full 590cc's of developer so I am sure I am getting what is needed. Even when he is using the Barry Thornton's teaspoon method 590cc of liquid need to cover the whole roll of 120 medium format film in order for it to develop correctly. <br /> <br /> You know I would do a video on this so you can see how this works, but I am fed up with trying to explain the issue with people that are fixated on the fact 120 = 35mm 36 exp = 4 sheets 4x5 = 1 sheet 8x10 which has nothing to do with the OP's development problem. As a matter of fact 120 = 35mm 36 exp = 4 sheets 4x5 = 1 sheet 8x10 really has no relevance in this whole post with the exception that it has been stated. <br /> <br /> Replenish the developer before you put it in the next tank and see if your problem goes away when you move your developer and fixer from one tank to the next tank. I have a feeling it is going to work every time for the OP.</p>

<p>Jay, Bigger has nothing to do with Silver Halide content on the film. Not all B&W films have the same amount of Silver Halide on them. Thus the more you have the more developer and Fixer you will use as far as how much is used, soaked up by the process and if you measure out how much you end up using after say developing a roll of 120 EFKE 25 ISO compaired to a roll of 120 Tri-X 400 ISO you will notice a difference between the difference of what went in to what came out. This (20 = 35mm 36 exp = 4 sheets 4x5 = 1 sheet 8x10) is fine but it has nothing to do with the chemicals and how they are used before they go in and after they come out. Sorry Jay, I just can't agree with your statement from years of developing Black and White film I have experienced the same thing as the OP has mentioned. You are always free to give your opinion and experiences as I am with mine.</p>

<p>As a matter of fact I can go out and shoot a roll of 120 and reproduce the effect the OP has just by leaving out a few oz's of chemicals when I develop the roll and produce the exact issue.</p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=531781">Jay De Fehr</a> Ummm OK on the 120 = 35mm 36 exp = 4 sheets 4x5 = 1 sheet 8x10. I disagree, not all silver film is exactly the same, but OK.</p>

<p>How old is the lens? Canon professional services can fix the lens. My canon 60D is jumpy from time to time with my sigma 70mm-300mm APO DG lens if the camera doesn't have enough light. Does it sound like it is grinding when you turn the lens rings? Or just stiff? Every lens I have ever purchased new is a little stiff in the beginning. </p>

<p>I'm using this software B&W Effect <a href="http://www.topazlabs.com/">http://www.topazlabs.com/</a></p>

<p>It is more than likely it wasn't enough chemicals you do lose some no matter how you dump the chemicals from one tank to the next. I always dump back into the beaker and then back into the gallon of chemicals I made and re-measure them again from the gallon so I know I always have enough chemicals in each tank. I have done 3 tanks at the same time with B&W Medium Format film and I know I have to measure it out over and over. Usually get the stop bath done on one before starting the next to daisy chain the development process. A lot of activity going on when you do that but fun none the less.</p>

<p>I would suspect a camera malfunction, but you said you did the 400 I imagine with the same camera, I have a box of 120 Arista 100 EDU right here says 6 minutes in D-76. Not sure what your doing with the Teaspoon method, just read about it briefly. I don't have any Arista 400. </p>

<p>Try not pouring the developer into that tank, put it back in the measuring device such as a beaker or what ever you use, make sure you still have 24 Oz's of developer. If not and you mixed a gallon of chemicals pour it back in the gallon and shake it up a little and pour out 24 more Oz's and then put it in the tank. I figured maybe you had them both in one tank at first and did the rotation method because if you do the rotation method with 120 Arista it leaves a band on the top or the bottom of the film because I have come across this problem before. To avoid the band on the bottom or top I just use inversion agitation and that problem goes away. However, it doesn't seem like you did that so all I can say is that there wasn't enough developer in the second tank.</p>

<p>Remember 120/220 is a lot more film with silver on it than say one roll of 35mm and the developer does wear out a bit more than with a smaller film.</p>

<p>The only think I can think of is that you didn't have enough chemicals in the development tank to cover the top of that roll. Was the 400 on the bottom and if it was on the bottom did you use inversion agitation or did you use the turning with the handle method? So you used two different tanks at the same time using the same developer from one tank and then pouring it into the next tank? You might have exhausted the developer and could have if you have a gallon of chemicals put them back in the gallon bottle and shake it up a bit and then pour out the developer again and fill the single tank. If you used a double tank then I see you didn't use enough developer to fill the tank, the developer was exhausted.</p>

 

<p>Want to make your own brew? Try out these guys for raw chemicals. <a href="http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/">http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/</a> and <a href="http://stores.photoformulary.com/StoreFront.bok">http://stores.photoformulary.com/StoreFront.bok</a> .</p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=282122">Q.G. de Bakker</a> 6x4.5 is 6cm x 4.5cm The M645 the 645 Pro TL that I have shoot a 6 centimeter High by 4.5 centimeter Wide negative. I have two cameras by Kodak Brownie that shoot 6x6 squares, and the Kodak Autographic N0. 1 Special, I have that shoots a 6cm x 9cm on 120/220 or a 69 for short reference. My Brownie Holiday Flash 1 5/8” x 2 ½ negative size completely different on 127. I know these aren't Mamiya. The Mamiya RB67 doesn't it shoot a 67 - 6cm X 7cm negative? I understand your relationship of the 56mm there is always space around the frame. None the less, for standard numbering 645,65,66,67,68,69, and so on was what I was referring to so we have an understanding of my terminology. Will the Mamiya 645 shoot on a (6x6 or 6cm x 6cm frame) film which we know as 120/220 sure, but it will only use 6cm x 4.5cm of the frame with what looks to be 4mm all the way around of empty space. Is this clearer? No none of my Mamiya 645's will shoot 6x6 frames with out tearing the whole camera apart and figuring out how to change the insert if it can even be done.</p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=282122">Q.G. de Bakker</a> Sorry for making a 10mm error on the 60mm Medium format film. Please accept my sincere apologies. I don't think the 645 shoots a square 6x6, lets see it is sitting in front of me. The M645 does have a back to it. And I don't think the M645 is designed to ever shoot a 6x6 shot.</p>

<p>I understand the reference of the 6x6 film. The 120/220 is 70mm film. Thus the 645 which means 6cm x 4.5cm will indeed shoot on 6x6 size film which is still 70mm film. Since it is 6cm wide. We have variation such as the 645, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 and I have even seen 6cm x 12cm on all kinds of different medium format cameras not only the Mamyia. I have the M645 I picked up for 140 bucks at the Kent State U Campus Camera to play around with. Love it so much I found a Mamyia 645 Pro TL that I use all the time now when I am interested in shooting Medium Format B&W or Color even slides from time to time. </p>

<p>I have the prime 135mm lens, the only time I have it on the camera is when I am shooting a portrait of a person. I use my 80mm - 200mm the most when I am out shooting. I created a two camera kit AE-1 Program silver and black bodies. The black one usually has the 50mm f/1.4 on it and the silver has the 80 - 200mm on it. Both are always loaded with the same kind of b&w or color film. I don't have the 200mm prime for this kit, I probably wouldn't use the 200mm prime very much but then that has to do with my shooting style.</p>

<p>Hi Bob,<br>

I have never heard of any one recommending a clear bottle for black and white chemicals, I know that isn't what you are saying, and I keep mine in black plastic Kaltz bottles. I to have a darkroom for printing on fiber base paper and no I am not as old as you are with 4 decades of black and white development. However, I do know what I am talking about. Thanks for your insight.</p>

<p>Hi Bob,<br /> I have never heard of any one recommending a clear bottle for black and white chemicals, I know that isn't what you are saying, and I keep mine in black plastic Kaltz bottles. I to have a darkroom for printing on fiber base paper and no I am not as old as you are with 4 decades of black and white development. However, I do know what I am talking about. I didn't realize this was a competition.</p>

<p>Thanks for your insight.</p>

<p>All my bulk film sits in the freezer in 100ft rolls until I meter it out into canisters to shoot. I have some that has been in there for years and still works like fresh film. I have purchased from B&H Video, Adorama, <a title="Freestyle Photographic Supplies" href="http://www.freestylephoto.biz/" target="_blank">Freestyle Photographic Supplies</a>, and many others. If you shoot a lot of film then 100ft. rolls is the way to go as far as getting film at more than 1/2 price.</p>

<p>The following software has its uses;<br>

Digital Photo Professional 3.10.2 - Has basic tools to get your photograph ready for printing or cleaned up along with Batch processing to convert the photographs from CR2 RAW to JPG, TIF, and a variety of other photo formats. <br>

<br />EOS Utility 2.10.2 - Used to down load the CR2 Raw file from your camera to the PC.<br>

Camera Window - Never use.<br>

Picture Style Editor 1.9.0 - Basic editing tools I very rarely use this unless I am interested in a quick preparation for Printing.<br>

Image Browser 6.7.0.11 - Rarely use.<br>

<br>

I do use Photoshop CS4 with Topaz adjust 5 and Topaz B&W Effect most of the time for all my work. The software that comes from Canon isn't useless it is just slimmed down software for working on photographs in the basic form.</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/15999312-lg.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="550" /><br>

Manual for AE-1 Program ~ <a href="http://www.cameramanuals.org/canon_pdf/canon_ae-1_program-1.pdf">Here</a><br>

Good Luck! Hope this helps!</p>

<p>I'll say it like this as I have stated it before. It is not the tool but the person behind the tool that makes the great photographs that come from the camera. Here is one interesting article to read about the two cameras <a href="http://www.canon5dtips.com/photo/5d-mark-ii-vs-7d-why-more-megapixels-is-better-for-photography/">7d and 5dmII </a>. 7D Image Format ~ 22.3 x 14.9 mm (APS-C size) and 5DM2 Image Format ~ <br />36.0mm x 24.0mm (35mm Full-frame) Obviously a small difference of 3.1 Megapixels. I would say that the biggest enlargement I could make would be 3.1 Megapixels smaller then the other camera. Is the 5DM2 any better than the 7D depends on the applications you need the cameras for but 3.1 Mega Pixels shouldn't the reason you want the 5DM2 over the 7D. I use the Canon 60D myself and it works for all the applications I need it for. So there is a place here <a href="http://www.borrowlenses.com/category/canon_bodies">Borrowed Lenses</a> and rent the 5DM2 for what ever time you think you need and do a side by side yourself and then make your purchase decision. Hope this helps!</p>

<p>As far as B&W and C-41 (Color Negative) film goes, I haven't sent a single roll off to be processed by anyone. I use Arista 76 powder film developer (like Kodak D-76) as my choice of developer and all the other Arista powder chemicals. Changing Bag, Closet, or Dark Room all a good choice to load your film into the development tank. I personally turned a basement bathroom into a dark room for myself that I have light sealed and there isn't any light no matter what time of day it is. <br /><strong><br /></strong><br /> When it comes to developing color of all the powder chemicals that work with C-41 and the Jobo processor which I do not have, the Jobo C-41 Press Kit works perfectly with every roll of C-41 I process in the hand tank just like I do with my B&W film. Developing at 75 degrees F; One difference is instead of inverse intervals every 30 seconds I use the turning handle and turn the film 5 times clockwise wait 30 seconds then turn it 5 times counter clockwise for 17 minutes and 30 seconds. 8 minute Blix same 5 times clockwise and 5 counter clockwise every other 30 seconds. 5 minute wash, and finally 1 minute in stabilizer and my C-41 Hand Tank development comes out perfect every single roll I do by hand. This method works the same for 120/220 medium format film as well.</p>

<p><br /> Developing C-41 at home is just as easy as developing B&W.</p>

<p><br /> I stopped sending film off to be developed by others in 1999 for B&W and C-41 in 2006 I started developing it myself at home using several different C-41 chemical sets and eventually ending up using the Jobo C-41 Press kit as my hand tank preference all the time.<br /> <br /> So doing B&W and C-41 at home is very easy as long as you follow all of the instructions. I am currently working with E-6 Chemical Sets again to see which one I prefer so I do not need to send my Slide film to Fuji to have developed anymore. I'll be completely in house development of film. I currently develop all of my friends B&W and Color C-41 film when they shoot a roll from time to time I have complete confidence in my ability to develop both B&W and C-41 for myself and others.<br /> <br /> It wouldn't be hard for you to do the same. Good Luck with your adventures in film development.</p>

<p>I own a Canon 60D and use it for my professional work, I have a Canon Powershot SX30 IS, I use the AE-1 Program, and many other camera's in my collections some are digital some are film, you might look at the new Canon T4i. </p>

<p>One place to go looking that I know of that you will learn all you need is here; <a href="http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/">http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/</a> Bostick and Sullivan! </p>