stever_max

<p><strong>Every camera </strong>including Tessinas should have the shutter exercised every three months to keep the shutter from sticking and to move the lubricants around. That way a CLA [Clean, Lubricate and Adjust] can be avoided.</p>

<p>Just shoot 6x6 and you will not need to rotate the camera. :)</p>

<p>Time for a CLA by a Hasselblad repair person.</p>

<p>The lens release button <strong>should be used, in fact must be used</strong> to release the lens. Would you want the lens to just twist off??</p>

<p>Duplicate post. See post above.</p>

<p>I have two Hasselblads CX 503 and SWC 903. Both perform well and I have had no problems out of the ordinary. <strong>Of course as with any camera, one does have to read the instruction manual.</strong> The reason you might see problem questions about the Hasselblad is because this is one of the places that people come to with problems. The rest are too busy taking photographs to bother posting here.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Great lens that performs well. There is nothing marginal about that lens.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>I just used Essex Camera Services http://essexcamera.com/ and they were quite good.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Hasselblad in New Jersey or David Odess.</p>

<p>Steve Graff</p>

<p>Skip the zoom lenses for Hasselblad. Stick to the prime lenses, you will get more bang for the buck without the downside to zooms.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=4185361">Tim Ludwig</a> , May 20, 2010; 07:55 a.m.</p>

</blockquote>

 

<blockquote>

<p>The 150mm is the standard focal length for portraits due to getting you back far enough on heads shots to still get a tight crop and to avoid any distortions that would be introduced by the normal (80mm) range lenses. It performs very well in close or backed off for full length portraits as well. I have also used the 80mm for mid to full length with great results and the much longer 250mm and 500mm have been terrific is special situations where I wanted the effect that those long optics give. For portraits that include much of the environment or that are of large groups, the wide angle 50mm and even wider 40mm have been very effective.<br>

So the answer is, in general, the 150mm might be your best overall choice, but all focal lengths have their moments when they are just the right lens for the portrait at hand.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The 150mm lens is my least used lens. I have 903 SWC CR 38mm, 50mm CR, 80mm CF, 150mm CF and 250mm CF. The 80mm CF is the most used lens. I suggest that you get the 8mm, 16mm, 32mm and 56mm extension tubes for close up work.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=730481">Stuart Richardson</a> , May 20, 2010; 06:01 a.m.<br>

I would love one, but can't bring myself to pay the huge prices they command.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I can and did. Please see attached.</p>

<p>Steve</p><div></div>

<p>I have four A-12 backs that I use for my 503 CX and 509 SWC. Since I do not need to use the high speed film for the SWC I have to speeds of film that I use. It breaks down to:</p>

<ul>

<li>Two backs are for color => 400 Ultracolor or Vividcolor and 100 or 160 C-41 color film</li>

<li>Two backs for black & white => 400 Tri-X and 125 Plus-X</li>

</ul>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Congratulations!! Enjoy!! Start with Kodak Tri-X for Black & white or Ektar 100 for color.</p>

<p>You can get reconditioned scanners at the Epson website for a lot less money.</p>

<p>Just for your knowledge base:<br>

Loading film into a Hasselblad back =>

How to change light seals in Hasselblad film magazines => http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HT/HTSeal.aspx<br>

Unjamming a Hasselblad => http://www.dmin-dmax.fr/photoe2b.htm<br>

Unjamming a Hasselblad => http://photoweb.net/pw_tech/hassy_unjam.html</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<blockquote>

<h1>Is it worth it?</h1>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Absolutely yes!<br>

1) Get a copy of E. Wildi's book, the fifth edition. The sixth edition dropped too much good information to make room for the digi-snappers. <<insert wink here>></p>

<p>From that book, here is condensed information about exposures:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>

<p >When and how to change the light meter reading and books on composition</p>

<p > </p>

<p >· Mostly black with very little white – close one or two stops – counter intuitive.</p>

<p >· Mostly white with very little black – open one or two stops – counter intuitive.</p>

<p > </p>

<p ><strong>Scene Compensation</strong></p>

<p >fog open 1 stop (smaller f number, bigger opening)</p>

<p >sand open 1.5 stops</p>

<p >light flesh open 1 stop</p>

<p >dark flesh close 1 to 1.5 stops</p>

<p >overcast days open 2 or 2.5 stops</p>

<p >palm of hand open 1 stop</p>

<p >evergreen trees close 1 stop</p>

<p >blackboard open stop</p>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>2) Go to www.apug.org to get your film questions answered. Hybrid processing questions should be directed to the sister site www.hybridphoto.com.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Water <em>very important!</em></p>

<p>Steve<em><br /></em></p>

<blockquote><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=282122">Q.G. de Bakker</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Hero" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/hero.gif" alt="" title="Hero" /> <img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/2rolls.gif" alt="" title="Frequent poster" /> </a> , Feb 01, 2010; 11:46 a.m.</blockquote>

<blockquote>

<p>I'd say that your gut feeling is right. There definitely is more 'shake' produced by the focal plane shutter. But i don't have data to back it up, and i don't think you would notice in the final result.<br /> Yet, when given the choice, just use the leaf shutter, unless times over 1/500 are needed.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>With the 250mm lens at 1/500th of a second even hand held, the 'shake' is not an issue. Your breathing and your heart beat would be a greater factor and would probably not have a significant effect.</p>

<p>I have a 45º angle PME which is very reliable and does a great job for most of my work. I carry a Nikon F-100 with a 28mm to 200mm Nikon zoom lens that I use in the spot meter mode for spot readings.</p>

<p>I did not get the 90º PME because it can interfer with some backs and makes others less convinient to change.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Definitely a light leak. Replace your seals.<br>

Steve</p>

<blockquote>

<p>According to Ernst Wildi, author of "The Hasselblad Manual", some users tape the ring at it its furthest setting and leave it there.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Which begs the question, why spend the extra money for an FLE? Buy the CF lens instead.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>You have slow moving targets - the birds are not flying; they are preening. Use a faster film, such as Kodak 400 NC, Kodak 400 VC, Kodak Tri-X 400, or one of Fuji's or Ilford's 400 ISO films. Then the depth of field will be greater and the focusing will be less critical.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Good price for the work being done.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Take all three lenses because you will use them all. Consider the extra weight as part of your physical fitness program.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=993080">Vick Vickery</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" title="Frequent poster" /> </a> , Dec 23, 2009; 04:44 p.m.<br>

"The Hasselblad Manual" by E. Wildi is the definitive book on the care and feeding of Hasselblad equipment. A copy is well worth having.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Get the fifth edition, the sixth edition deleted detail that is needed for using film and adds in its place digital information and newer cameras.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>The obvious suggest has not been made yet => shoot ISO 400 film. The Sunny 16 rule tells us that <em>f</em> /16 at 1/500 second for sunny days, <em>f</em> /11 for partly cloudy days at 1/500 second, ... That will give you a much greater depth of field and even sharper focusing that you got before.</p>

<p>Steve</p>