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stever_max

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Posts posted by stever_max

  1. Use KEH.com. They are very conservative on rating the equipment they sell. They have a 30 day return policy. They are highly rated [search for them on this website].

     

    I brought a Hasselblad lens from them rated Ex and it was Mint. I returned a polarizing filter because I did not like the condition and got another one without a problem.

     

    Steve

  2. Check out http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?Hasselblad500.html~mainFrame before you start buying Hasselblad equipment.

     

     

    The chrome C lenses do not have the T* lens coating. The coating improve the contrast and the flare-reflection rejection. More important ly the chrome lenses are very hard to get repaired do the the lack of parts. While they are less expensive, they are not for the first time buyer.

     

    Stick to the T* CF, CFi, CFE or newer lenses. The F lenses are for the facal plane shutter camera, the 2000 and 200 series. This series has been disconinued. The 1600 and 1000 cameras are pre-1957 and have had reliability problems, consider them collectors items.

     

     

    Stick to the 500 series, also know as the V series.

     

    Gooed places to buy: www.KEH.com and David Odess [http://www.david-odess.com/]

     

    Resources:

    Here and http://www.hasselbladinfo.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi

     

    Steve

  3. "X setting is for electronic flash, m is for flash bulbs, V self timer. I think that's correct. "

     

    Almost, M is for M type flash bulb such as M5, M6. It can also be used for FP [focal plane flashbulbs] which burn brightly for a longer period of time. The FP bulbs, if you could find them, are not necessary with the Hasselblad lens shutters, however they would be useful for the 1600/1000/2000/200 series of cameras.

     

    Steve

  4. I brought a similar pinhole for my Nikon slr and the results were ok. The Nikon has a focal plane shutter so 1/4 and 1/2 second exposures were easy to accomplish. I was using 400 ASA film in bright daylight.

     

    However, I have not considered trying one for the Hasselblad because the 1/4 to 1/2 exposures would be hard to time without a shutter. I don't think that I would switch to 50 ASA film to have a timeable exposure to a few exposures for World Pinhole day [this is usually the last Sunday in April => see http://www.pinholeday.org/]. Yes, I do know it would be only 12 exposures.

     

    Steve

  5. The C lenses are chrome and have a Compur shutter which has not been made many years. Parts are hard to come by and they cannot always be serviced.

     

    Stick with CF lenses [which I have] or newer lenses. If you do not use the 2000/200 series of cameras you might want to save money by not getting the CFi or other electronic lenses.

     

    I recommend doing your research as Paul has suggested as well as seaching the internet.

     

    Warning: Handling a Hasselblad can be hazardous to you wallet. ;^)}

     

    Steve

  6. Simon Galbally:But, I do have one back that has a magazine with no serial number sticker fitted to it ( I have no idea if it is the original matching back or not). It was like new and the ONLY current version back for sale in my state at the time I needed one.

     

    I have seen back without numbers. They are very old backs.

     

    Steve

  7. Kevin,

     

    "And besides, if you hadn't brought it up, I would have assumed from the "ain't" ( Good Heavens! ) that you were in fact from the USA, and more likely to be seen with a banjo than a camera."

     

    He likes to drink cold flat lager beer and watch "Deliverance".

     

    Steve

  8. QG,

     

    Would you like to explain to Debejyo:

     

    1) How to use any automatic strobe with the Hasselblad. I think you can make it clearer that I can.

     

    2) Having done #1, expand that to fill in flash

     

    Those two explained would help him overcome his "flash" problems.

     

    Steve

  9. Some more answers: Strobes sychronize at all shutters speeds up to 1/500 second. This is because the shutter is a leaf shutter.

     

    A strobe illuminations is much shorter than the film exposure time.

     

    When a leaf shutter starts to open light illumiates the complete focal plane and continues to illuminate the focal plane while the shutter is open. Therefore the shutter allows all the strobe light to strike the film up to the shortest shutter speed [1/500 second for any V series (500 series)].

     

    A focal plane shutter opens from one side and then closes closes starting from the same side. The only way to get even illumination is when the complete focal plane is exposed, thus requiring synchronization times of 1/60 or 1/90 second.

     

    The advantage of the leaf shutter allows the same f/stop [Guide Number/Distance] for any shutter speed for proper exposure when using a strobe. Any automatic strobe will work when the f/stop is properly set. [someone here who can articulate this more clearly, please jump in]

     

    I hope this clears up you question about strobes.

     

    Steve

  10. Websites to check out the following:

    http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?Hasselblad500\

    .html~mainFrame

    to learn about Hasselblad 500 family

     

    Hasselbladusa.com look for "Welcome to Planet V"

     

    apug.org you need to sign up first, film only with world class

    photographers contributing daily

     

    http://www.clubhasselblad.com/forum new site

     

    http://www.hasselbladinfo.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi analog and

    digital contributers, very knowledgeable

     

    http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/ to look up manuals [also

    Hasselblad USA] and check age of Hasselblad camera bodies and parts,

    and Zeiss lens by serial number

     

    That should get you started.

     

    Steve

  11. I have a Nikon N-75 with a f/2.8 20mm - 35mm Nikon AR zoom and a f/3.6 -f/5.6 28mm - 300mm AF Tameron XR.

     

    I also have a Hasselblad 503CX with f/4 50mm, f/2.8 80mm, f/4 150mm and f/5.6 250mm Zeiss lenses.

     

    I also have experience shooting sports such as soccer, skiing, and motorcycle racing. If you can prefocus and let the action come to where you are set up to shoot [a good idea for sports with any camera] the Hasselblad and use the hyperfocal distance then use the Hasselblad. However I think that for what you want to do you will be happier with the results [ease of use, speed shooting, fast framing with a zoom lens] if you use a 300mm zoom lens in the Nikon.

     

    Steve

  12. When I shoot with the Hasselblad, I use a Tamrac Model 752 Super Photo Daypack which loads from the top and put the weight on the hips. Since it loads from the top, when I take it off I set it down on the ground and change the lenses and backs over it. I also use lens wraps for padding and when I change the lens I lay out a cloth, take off the lens caps on the cloth.

     

    I cannot give you a direct URL.

     

    Go to tamrac.com

     

    Select Backpacks

     

    Select search by "model number, name"

     

    Look for model "752, Super Photo Daypack"

     

    That will bring you to the description and photos

     

    Steve

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