stever_max

<p>I have an 38mm Biogon 903 SWC, 50mm Distagon CF, 80mm Planar CF; 150 mm Sonnar CF, 250mm Sonnar CF, and a 2x extender. I just got the 38mm so I cannot comment on the usage yet. I use the 80mm the most, the 50mm next, then the 250mm and finally the 150mm.</p>

<p>That should muddy the waters for you.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Who said that I do not like my Hasselblad?!?</p>

<p>In response to a Hasselblad system growing to be weighty, consider what such grow does to the size of the wallet and personal net worth.</p>

<p>I am happy with my Hasselblad and the four lenses that I have. I find that when I carry all the equipment in a backpack, that the weight helps me maintain physical fitness.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>RH means built in 1981.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>I have the 45 degree metered prism, PME, and the WLF. I only use the prism.<br>

I use the 50mm, 80mm, 150mm, 250mm and the 2x extender.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>I have the 45 degree metered prism, PME, and the WLF. I only use the prism.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>The mirror slap problem is highly over-rated.<br>

A Hasselblad can be hand held for exposures times less that 1/(lens focal length) seconds. Yes, you could use a tripod, but unless you have physical problems you will not see a difference.<br>

If you still think that it is a problem, have the mirror stops replaced. Although the money would be better spent on film.<br>

Just enjoy the camera.<br>

Steve</p>

<p>I have been using the Hasselblad for about a year and a half and I learned some things from that video.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Steve</p>

Mirror slap is not a problem except in the minds of those that commit Operator Assisted Failures, also know as OAFs. These OAFs are quite adept at blaming every thing and every one else for their failures. The OAFs use shutter speeds that are too slow, do not know how to use a light meter correctly and botch loading and unloading film. Rather than looking at the root cause of the problems [read: themselves] they blame the equipment for having mirror slap.

Real photographers do not have this problem with Hasselblads or any other single lens reflex camera.

Steve

It can be confusing. The first time I had to recock the lens, I turned it to the red spot and it snapped back without doing anything.

Turn the slot more than 180 degrees, mine took several rotations. At some point you will see the shutter slowly open. Continue turning until the shutter cocks and the slot is lined up with the red dot.

No one ever tell you that it may take several turns.

Steve

In absence of knowing what country you are in, I have two suggestions:

1) David Odess, a Hasselblad repair technical who frequents this website (search this site or google him).

2) KEH.com also does repairs.

You can call either and get advice.

Steve

For future use, in the US, I can recommend Samys Camera [Los Angeles], KEH.com and David Odess. Take your choice; all are good.

Steve

I have had good luck with keh.com. They are very conservative with their grading of equipment and they have an unusually good 30 day return policy.

Steve

I have chosen to use CF lenses. For the reasons stated above, I have avoided the C lenses.

I have the CF f/4 50mm, CF f/2.8 80mm, CF f/4 150mm and the CF f/5.6 250mm lenses. I chose the 50mm lens because of usability and to maintain the same filter size. The 40mm lenses is too limited, I plan to get the SWC instead to get a similar FOV without the distortion.

Steve

Sun,

Reference to paragraph #1:

I use goldencolor.com to print large black and white prints ... 20X20 and 24x36. Al's facility can print very large prints optically and his prices are reseasonable.

Steve

"Graham Mitchell, Nov 14, 2007; 08:50 p.m.

The older optics should still be pretty good. The differences are more about metering, aperture and shutter speed increments, autofocus, communication between body and back, etc.

Plenty of people are not enamoured with the Hass H optics anyway."

It is really amazing that in all these years the laws of physics and the laws of optics have not changed! No matter what the politicans do they have not managed to screw those up.

Not only do the old optices work; they do not need batteries!

Steve

"Paul Kern, Nov 02, 2007; 02:58 a.m.

Marko, it is recommended to insert the darkslide only if needed. The darkslide in place for a longer period will widen up the lightseal in your film back and (earlier than usual) creating light seal problems on your film. That's of course unavoidable if you're using two or even more of them.

Paul"

The light seals last a minimum of ten years, if you leave the darkslide in. You should have it serviced before then anyway.

Steve

"Marko Knezevic, Nov 02, 2007; 09:03 p.m.

For Steve :

When I first got my Hassy it was set so that I could only take photos when the darkslide was out, but one time I took it out and loaded film without it and shot with it like that. From then on I could take photos with the darkslide in, which is the main reason I am asking this because I've shot with it in and missed some important shots. Is this right or am I just doing something terribly wrong ?"

Sounds like the interlock pin is bent. I recommend that you have it serviced by HasselbladUSA, KEH, David Odessa.

Steve

Welcome to the darkslide!

If you only have one back, it is useful to keep the shutter from inadvertently going off when you are handling the camera.

steve

"Robert Meier, Nov 01, 2007; 08:12 p.m.

... I also was very interested to see that the F versions of the 150, 250 and 350 lenses are not only sharper, not only a full stop faster, but they are lighter too!

Benjamin Kim"

The F lenses are for the 200/2000 series with the focal plane shutter, not for the V series which has the shutter built in each lens. It is kinda like comparing apples and airplanes.

Steve

Is the mirror locked up? Check:

http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWVSys.aspx

for instruction manuals.

Steve

"GASPAR HOMS, Oct 17, 2007; 07:39 a.m.

if you are going to do studio job, it will be ok. if you are going to do outdoor photography or nature photography, maybe you must consider a Pentax 645N or a Pentax 67."

What are you talking about???? You must be quoting Popular Photography or a magazine that does its reviews without handling the camera. I have no problems using the Hasselblad in the field. What is your information based on??

Steve

What is the condition of the light trap on the back? It looks like the light came in from the left side of the back and struck right side of the film back which is where the left side of the image is located [remember the left side of the image is on the right side of the film back - top on the bottom, bottom on the top, left on right, right on left].

Replacing the light trap is a quick and cheap fix.

Steve

B&H carries them for about $15 each. Search for who else carries them.

The top layer of both of them that I brought kept popping off. I used super glue to reattach them ==> BEWARE! Use very little super glue along each ledge and insert the darkslide when you position the pieced together. Slide the darkslide in and out to maintain good clearance.

Steve

"To recommend a place to shop for cameras and lenses in case of someone new to Hasselblad and or MF you need to know the company you refer to is a reliable serious seller." - Paul Gardener

I have recommend KEH because I have had truely great products and services from them. I also recommend David Odessa although I have not used his services yet. If posters would state what city they live in or at least the country, then I could recommend dealers that I know in their area. Most posters do not say where they live, therefore I will not recommend a camera store in Los Angeles or New York to them.

I have tried buying Hasselblad equipment at other places and have found that there is a relatively small number of knowledgeable sellers who also have a reliable rating system, adequate inventory and good prices. The places that I recommend are usually close the the ebay prices without the risks.

Steve