gordon_yee

The beauty ring on your lens is glued on with contact cement. You can pry it off by slipping something under the inside or outside with a thin, flat, flexible piece of plastic or a feeler gauge. Alternatively, you could try using sticky pieces of tape and try to pull it out. The bayonet mount for the lens hood and front lens group are each held in place with three screws, the removal of which will give you access to the diaphragm and the front of the rear lens group. There are several versions of the FD 50mm f/1.8 S.C. lens. Canon continuously made changes to this lens to reduce its size, weight, complexity and cost. On earlier versions, the diaphragm is a six blade modular unit that can be easly removed and cleaned. On newer versions like yours, it's a five blade non-modular unit. Be forewarned, if you remove it for cleaning, you'll have to reassemble it blade-by-blade.

Glad to hear you've got your EOS 3 working again. The EOS 1n I repaired was purchased used and with a non-working shutter. I don't know how long it was in this condition, but it was at least several years. That's why I exercised the shutter as extensively as I did. If your EOS 3 developed its problem recently, you shouldn't need to exercise it as much as I did to keep it in good working order.

If you're mechanically inclined and willing to assume the risk, you could try repairing your EOS 3 rather than banging the crap out of it. There are a bunch of DIY videos online, such as this one: I was successful at repairing my EOS 1n by cleaning the electromagnet. Once I got the shutter working, I exercised it by tripping the shutter a dozen or so times daily for a month or two which loosened it up significantly. Lately, I've been checking it weekly and it's still running fine.

According to the owner's manual, the "Auto/Manual" switch should always be set to "Auto" when used on the Spotmatic F (see page 23): pentax_spotmatic_f.pdf (cameramanuals.org) I believe this also applies to other Spotmatics with full aperture metering. Unlike the stop-down metering only bodies, the lens mounts on FA metering bodies have a recessed groove that prevents the pin from being depressed when the lens is mounted, locking the A/M switch in Auto. My guess is that setting the switch to Manual can result in metering problems. Quirks such as this were unavoidable when updating existing mounts for newer technology such as FA metering and auto exposure, while maintaining compatibility with older models. If you mount a SMC lens on an older stop-down metering only body, the mount will depress the pin and the A/M switch will slide as on older lenses.

Probably referring to the May 1976 issue of Popular Photography in which Norman Goldberg tested 32 normal lenses from eight lens manufacturers: Canon, Konica, Leica, Minolta, Nikon, Olympus, Pentax and Vivitar. With a few exceptions, the four lenses from each manufacturer included three standard lenses and one macro lens. The three standard lenses represented the three maximum apertures generally offered (f/1.2, f/1.4 and f/1.7-f/2,). The test measurements are presented in PopPhoto's standard charts and tables, leaving any interpretations or conclusions to the reader (or fanboi). One interesting result was that the Canon FD f/1.8 SC lens (incorrectly identified as "SSC") had one of the lowest flare measurements of all the lenses. It's often pointed out that none of the versions of this lens ever received the full SSC multi-coated treatment. The reason is that they never needed it. I recall reading that some of the lens surfaces of the New FD version were multi-coated, just not all of them. No reason to multi-coat a lens if there's no benefit to be gained.

These flash units are usually referred to as "B-C" or bulb-capacitor flash units. The battery charges the capacitor which then discharges through the camera's synchronization circuit at the time of exposure. I suspect that the electrolytic capacitor has deteriorated due to age, a common occurrence. Many B-C flash units have user replaceable capacitors. However, the Quint Flash does not. If you're mechanically inclined and willing to assume the risk, you could disassemble your flash and replace the capacitor, and clean all electrical contacts while you're at it. However, be warned that touching a charged capacitor can cause serious injury or even death. Again, the risk and responsibility is entirely yours. While the capacitor's ability to hold a full charge has probably diminished over the years, it may still be sufficient to trigger a flash bulb if given enough time to recharge and reform the capacitor's internal structure. The capacitor has likely discharged completely over the years and the initial recharge may take a while. Assuming you have a fresh battery, insert it and let it charge for an extended period, say overnight. Try a test exposure with an empty camera, even if the test light fails to illuminate. If a bulb fires, you may have a workable unit. However, the recharging time may be longer than practical, depending on the capacitor's condition. And, if the test light isn't working, each exposure will be a crap shoot. Good luck.

I have a Flash Quint with the vinyl case, but I don't have the manual. However, the Flash Quint is pretty simple to use. It requires a 15 volt carbon zinc battery equivalent to an Eveready 504, and AG-1 (B&W) or AG-1B (color film) flash bulbs. The calculator dial on the rear of the flash is attached to the battery door which slides down. The clear lens cover opens upward clam shell style, allowing you to slide the bulb holder out. The flash automatically selects and fires one bulb for each exposure until there are no unfired bulbs. If you press the red test button on the back panel and the window above the button lights up, the flash is ready for the next exposure. I believe that the test light will only glow when there is at least one good flash bulb remaining. Check online vendors for the battery and the auction sites for the battery and flash bulbs.

You can get front surface mirrors from kaleidoscope making supply shops. They're available in glass and plastic substrate. Also try science and telescope making supply shops. Here one source: Front Surface & Kaleidoscope Mirrors These are 1.25mm thick. If you have several TLRs and SLRs that need new mirrors, you can buy a sheet and cut your own. You'll probably want to get a carbide cutter if you're cutting glass substrate mirrors.

This link might be of some help: Ricoh Five-One-Nine Shutter Cleaning

Looks like a Mamiya Metra: Mamiya: Metra (1958) Price Guide: estimate a camera value Mamiya 35mm Cameras - Rangefinders Diaphragm looks like a normal five-bladed example used on moderately priced models of the era.

My Vivitar 600 Solid CAT came with a 106mm plastic press-on Series 1 lens cap. Vivitar also supplied a metal screw-on lens hood (102mm threads, I think ) as well as the four 35.5mm Series 1 filters. I believe that the optical formula assumes the presence of a filter, so one should always be mounted for optimal performance.

Cosina Vivitar - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

<p>Parts Manual:<br /> <br /> http://www.curtfargo.com/pdf/canon/DATE%20BACK%20DB-E2.pdf<br> <br /> User manual - requires registration to view:<br /> <br /> http://www.manhive.com/doc/canon-date-back-db-e2-datebackdbe2</p>

<p>Even though it's in French, the following link might be of some help:</p> <p>http://t.hacquard.free.fr/site2/dem_3m_en.html</p>

<p>I assume you're referring to the chrome plated breech ring that you rotate after mating the lens to the camera. Removing this ring is a very tricky procedure if you've never done one before. Read my comments in the following threads:</p> <p>http://www.photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/00bXxZ<br> <a href="/canon-fd-camera-forum/00VErt">http://www.photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/00VErt</a></p> <p>Proceed at your own risk.</p>

<p>Here's a link to a Canon 7 Auto-Up 450 for the 50mm f/1.2 for sale on the auction site:</p> <p>http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-AUTO-UP-450-25214-63-/281889136881?hash=item41a1e6e0f1:g:VfYAAOSweW5VSn5u</p> <p>Note that the metal frames on Model 7 Auto-Ups are painted black while those for other Canon RFs are natural metal finish. The circular bright metal ring on this auction item reads "Canon 57mm 450." The one in my collection only reads "Made in Japan." I'm not aware of any Canon Auto-Ups in 55mm size. Perhaps the one you saw was actually a <strong>50</strong>mm one for the 50mm f/1.4 lens.</p>

<p>Canon Model 7 Auto-Ups were made for each 50mm RF lens in two levels of magnification: Auto-Up 450 (No. 1) and Auto-Up 900 (No. 2). Because Auto-Ups attach directly to the front of the lens, there are separate models for the f/1.8, f/1.4 and f/1.2 lenses due to their different diameters. For the 50mm f/1.2 lens, which takes 55mm filters, you need a 57mm size Auto-Up. The 50mm f/1.8 and f/1.4 lenses require, respectively, 42mm and 50mm Auto-Ups. The shooting distance ranges for Auto-Ups 450 and 900 are 39-52 cm and 55-100 cm, respectively.</p> <p>Also be aware that, because of the differences in the layouts of the RF windows on the various Canon cameras, there are model-specific Auto-Ups. For example, Auto-Ups V-1 and V-2 were designed for the V and L series, and will also work on the P and VI models. The layout of the RF on the Model 7 is somewhat different due to the meter and provision for the 50mm f/0.95 lens so a Model 7 Auto-Up would be the preferred version.</p>

<p>On a USM lens, the name on the ID ring at the front of the lens should include "USM" in red letters. Otherwise, the lens is a non-USM version.</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Thz7</p>

<p>Links got messed up:</p> <p>http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/makinon-135-f2-8-mc-macro.html<br> http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Makina_Optical</p>

<p>This lens is a rebranded Makinon lens. Makina was a run-of-the-mill third-party lens manufacturer. It is not a true macro lens, but rather a standard lens with an extended helicoid for closer focusing.</p> <p><a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/makinon-135mm-f-2-8-mc.htmlhttp://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/makinon-135-f2-8-mc-macro.html">http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/makinon-135mm-f-2-8-mc.</a><br> <a href="http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/makinon-135mm-f-2-8-mc.htmlhttp://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/makinon-135-f2-8-mc-macro.html">htmlhttp://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/makinon-135-f2-8-mc-macro.html</a><br /> http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Makina_Optical</p>

<p>The following YouTube video may be of interest:</p> <p><a href=" <p>Film rewinding begins at around 3:06 of the video.</p>

<p>The following link to the Asahi Optical Historical Club provides detailed information on the evolution of the Asahi lens mount and the operation of the various generations of Takumar lenses:</p> <p><a href="http://www.aohc.it/testi.php?id_testi=40">http://www.aohc.it/testi.php?id_testi=40</a></p>

<p>Jeff, thanks for the correction. I had forgotten about the Electro Spotmatic. Scanning through the ES manual, there were a couple of presumably early SMC lenses that do not have the diaphragm coupling lever and will only meter in stopped down mode, specifically the short-lived SMC 85mm f/1.9 and the SMC 85-210mm zoom.</p>

<p>The Spotmatic F was the first of the Pentax screw mount cameras to feature full-aperture metering. This required the addition of a diaphragm coupling lever to the lens mount. The first generation Super Multi-Coated Takumar M42 lenses introduced with the Spotmatic F were the first with this feature. They were also the first Pentax screw mount lenses to have the interlock that locks the A/M switch in the "Auto" position. If you read the Spotmatic F manual, SMC Takumar lenses should always be set to "Auto" which explains why the interlock was added to SMC Takumar lenses. When mounted on older, stop-down metering Pentax bodies, the small pin on the back of the SMC lens should automatically be pushed in, disabling the A/M interlock and allowing the switch to be moved to the "Manual" setting.</p>