gordon_yee

Brian, your Vivitar 200 will work with your Canonet QL17 and any other film camera with a cold shoe. All you need is the proper PC cord as shown in the manual: vivitar_200.pdf (cameramanuals.org) The pointed end plugs into the socket at the bottom of the left side of the flash, just to the right of the serial number. The other end plugs into the socket on the front face of the camera under the viewfinder/rangefinder window (i.e., rewind side). I should have an extra PC cord. Send me a private message with your mailing address and I'll send one to you. The Vivitar 200 is an old model that pre-dates cameras with electronic components and probably has a high trigger voltage. When a camera's shutter triggers the flash, a current is sent through the camera's circuitry. A high voltage could potentially damage a camera's computer chips and electronics. Early generations of electronic cameras, such as the Canon A series and your EOS 650 may not experience problems. I would not use your Vivitar 200 on a newer electronic film camera and definitely not on any digital camera.

The center of the accessory shoe on your Canonet 28 has a round contact surrounded by a black insulator. This mates with the contact on your Vivitar flash, inserting it into the camera's circuitry, making it a "hot shoe". When you press the shutter, the camera closes the circuit and triggers the flash. The accessory shoe of your QL17 does not have this insulated contact, which means that your flash makes no connection to the camera's circuitry when it's mounted to this "cold shoe". The only way to insert a flash into your QL17's circuitry is to use a PC cord. If you look at page 21 of the Canonet QL17 manual, you'll see how a flash unit must be attached in order to work with your QL17. A hot shoe on a camera merely eliminates the need for the cord, essentially putting the cord inside the camera. Brian, what's the model number of your Vivitar flash? If it has a socket for a PC sync cord, it'll work on your QL17. Here's a link to a site with scans of Vivitar flash manuals: Vivitar 2800, Vivitar 3300, Vivitar 252, 728, 225, 365 flash unit instruction manual, user manual, PDF manual (butkus.org) What other flash units do you have?

Here's another adapter with an integral PC cord: Impact SCS-MPC PC Male to Hot Shoe Sync Cord (12") SCS-MPC B&H (bhphotovideo.com)

Brian, what flash units do you have currently? If any of them can accept a PC sync cord, they'll work with your Canonet. I have a bunch of spare cords and I can send a couple to you. Here's a link to a scan of the manual for your camera: canon_canonet_ql17.pdf (cameramanuals.org) This is the earliest version that uses the larger mercury battery.

Your Canonet QL17 is the first generation, full-sized model introduced in 1965: Canonet QL17 - Canon Camera Museum (global.canon) Yours should have a 45mm lens. Flash sync requires a PC cord. There were sub-versions of the first generation QL17 with different markings. Early ones used a larger 1.3V mercury battery (PX-1?) while later ones used a PX-13/PX-625 button. A hot shoe and the contacts for the Canolite D flash were added on the second generation QL17 ("New Canonet") in 1969. It was a total redesign, more compact in size and with a 40mm lens: New Canonet QL17/QL17-L - Canon Camera Museum (global.canon) The GIII, or third generation model, was a New Canonet with some improvements: Canonet G-III 17 - Canon Camera Museum (global.canon) Introduced in 1972, early GIIIs were made in Japan. Most later ones were made in Taiwan. A Canonet 28 with a hot shoe would be contemporary with the downsized gen2 or GIII models.

Jim, I noticed that your F-1 is a very early one. You're probably aware that upgraded parts were recommended in order to use the MF with F-1s with serial numbers under 200000. Attached is a scan from The Camera Craftsman that details the changes.

Took a second, closer look. Minolta SR looks more likely.

The three lugs of the Minolta SR bayonet mount are roughly the same length. On the Konica F (as well as the later, incompatible Konica AR) mount, one lug is significantly longer than the other two. SLR Lens Mount Identification Guide by Richard Oleson - Vintagelens Konica Collector - Lense Bayonet Classification (konica-collector.org)

Perhaps the Konica F mount of 1960?

<CPO> and <EP> markings generally indicate items purchased by military personnel from post exchanges: Post Exchange - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

Also, look for a Speedlite 200E if you want a small dedicated flash when the 300EZ is too much.

Are you sure the flash was off on one shot? If the capacitors were charged, the flash would still discharge when tripped by the camera. The programmed exposure selected by the camera's meter would have resulted in underexposure of your dog's white coat, as indicated in the dark bands. The extra light from the flash essentially resulted in "overexposure" of your subject (think "fill flash"). Had your dog been black, the shot would have been truly overexposed.

Had I known you were just a seller trolling for the value of your camera I wouldn't have wasted my time.

@Collector-20 - This wouldn't happen to be you, would it? Rare Film Camera Giorgio Moretti F.A.F. Acies the Only One on Ebay. | eBay

Reply deleted. Sorry, I just realized the link I posted was to the OP's own article on this camera.

Uncommon but pretty run-of-the-mill viewfinder camera for the period: Acies - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia FAF Price Guide: estimate a camera value (collectiblend.com) Unusual in that some were dual format (i.e., half- and full-frame 35mm).

As SCL noted, a potential problem with using sunlight is heat which could cause the grease in the focusing threads to break down, resulting in oil migrating to the lens surfaces and the blades of the diaphragm. One option would be to use ultraviolet light which kills fungus. Just make sure you get a UV lamp or bulb that puts out the proper light: Does Uv Light Kill Fungus - Quick Answer 2021 (uvlighthub.com) As others have mentioned, store your lenses in a cool, dry storage area with decent ventilation. If you use dessicant packs, make sure it's silica gel:

Appears to be a genuine black body to me. The key item is the white dot on the self timer lever. On factory black bodies, rangefinders and SLRs, there is a concave dimple on the lever which was painted white. Also, the chrome on repainted bodies would be visible when the black paint wore through. I've never seen a fake black body where the counterfeiter went to the trouble of removing the plating from the brass body panels. All of the painted parts and lettering look identical to my black Canon FTs. If this is a fake, the counterfeiter would be better served making $100 bills. My recollection is that early Canon black bodied cameras (i.e., rangefinders, Canonflexes and FL mount cameras) were hand-built on a separate production line in small batches of 100 or 200 cameras. This would be my guess as to how many black FXs were made. I'd also speculate that most of these were sold to professional photographers and to Japanese consumers. Popularity and sales of Canon SLRs didn't take off until the introduction of the Pellix, FT and TL. The cachet of having a black version of a camera took off in the 1970s. My guess is that full blown production lines were used to manufacture black bodied FTbs and all subsequent models.

The DX codes for ASA 200 and 320 differ by one digit. Try cleaning the contacts in the camera's film chamber. Also clean the DX coding contacts on the film canister to remove any debris. Film DX Coding – A photographer’s life hack - Photo Thinking - Technique

There are several materials used as desiccants. I suspect the packet you used was not silica gel but one containing a salt: List of desiccants - Wikipedia Silica gel is pretty inert. I guess the lesson here is to only use a desiccant packet if you know for sure what the material is. Sorry about your 'Blad. Edit: Gus, do you remember where your desiccant pack came from? Just found this: Active Clay Desiccant, Clay Desiccant, Absorbent. - Shanghai Betpak Packaging Material Co.,Ltd. - ecplaza.net Described as a clay-based desiccant.

The serial number of your lens indicates that it was made in 1935: Carl Zeiss serial numbers - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia Your camera would probably be an Ikonta C which was made between 1934 and 1936: Pacific Rim Camera Photographica Pages Zeiss Ikon: Ikonta 530/2 (Ikonta C) Price Guide: estimate a camera value (collectiblend.com)

"My question and interest was: what is the possible reasons for sandwiching a metal layer between the (I assume) polycarbonate top base and the outer black finish on the Nikon F-801 in 1988?" Speculations on my part: The layer of plating may provide strength, improved opacity and electromagnetic protection to the camera's electronics. It also may protect the plastic from potentially damaging UV rays. Cosmetically, the color and depth of paint looks better than bare plastic. Also, it's aesthetically more pleasing to see shiny metal after the paint has worn away, just as the brassing on "professional" black-bodied cameras was such a status symbol at one time. Not a knock on Minolta, but when I got a well-used X-700, I was surprised how unattractive the wear looked on the plastic body compared to an equally worn Canon A-1. I'm not a metallurgist, but I believe the reason for the multi-layer plating (copper-nickel-chrome) is because metals don't adhere to other metals equally. Chromium adheres well to nickel which is why hard chrome plating, such as on auto parts, is applied over nickel plating.

Cut and paste from an earlier post: "Of course, I felt the need to set the record straight on the 'plastic' body panels used on the A series cameras. Here are quotes from Popular Photography's stripdown report on the Canon AE-1 published in May 1977: '[T]he top and front outer panels are molded plastic measuring 0.8mm thick with an electroplated overcoating of copper, nickel, and chrome whose combined thickness measures 0.2mm on each side of the plastic. Thus the plastic cover panels have a metal skin on both sides that represents one-third of the total thickness of the panel. The result is a substantial savings in the cost of making these parts, along with a reduction in weight. At the same time, the precision and function of the parts leave nothing to be desired. In fact, where a sharp blow with a sharp object would noticeably dent a metal cover panel, it would simply leave a bright mark on the plated-plastic one. I tried throwing (not just dropping) the plated-plastic top-cover panel from an AE-1 on a concrete floor. It simply bounced, without a dent left in it. Next I tried to dent it by striking it with a sharp hammer. Still no dents, just bright marks from the burnishing of impact.' Here are extracts from their stripdown report on the Canon A-1 from their April 1979 issue: 'In the AE-1's Stripdown Report, I said it was one of the most elaborate mechanical cameras being made. The A-1 is even more elaborate mechanically.' 'The ... top and mirror-box front panel are made of the same well-proven plastic used on the AE-1. This is a plastic that's metal-plated, then painted (in the case of the black-finished models). The bottom cover is a substantial brass stamping' So, the plastic body panels on the A-1 are plastic with three layers of metal plating under the black paint."

Could be a Mirax Laborac lens mount adapter: Weird adapters, like T-mount, but 46mm screw thread? | Photo.net Photography Forums Miranda | A site dedicated to Miranda cameras and other forms of retro photography (mirandageek.eu)

The beauty ring on your lens is glued on with contact cement. You can pry it off by slipping something under the inside or outside with a thin, flat, flexible piece of plastic or a feeler gauge. Alternatively, you could try using sticky pieces of tape and try to pull it out. The bayonet mount for the lens hood and front lens group are each held in place with three screws, the removal of which will give you access to the diaphragm and the front of the rear lens group. There are several versions of the FD 50mm f/1.8 S.C. lens. Canon continuously made changes to this lens to reduce its size, weight, complexity and cost. On earlier versions, the diaphragm is a six blade modular unit that can be easly removed and cleaned. On newer versions like yours, it's a five blade non-modular unit. Be forewarned, if you remove it for cleaning, you'll have to reassemble it blade-by-blade.