jim_graves1

Echoing what Keith said ... I used the chart and got a comparable time ... I've done just a few rolls of Rollei IR in both Perceptol and D-76 ... I used 9 minutes in stock Perceptol (13 min. for 1-1 and 17 for 3-1) and had good results ... with the caution that those should just be starting points ... with so few rolls done I'm not really too confident of best times. Those shots were with a Red 25 filter using an ISO of 50 (3 stops.) I like the film ... much less IR effect than Kodak's now defunct HIE but when shot in very bright light on high IR scenes it was very nice.

Quickloads ... I love them. I started using them for backpackiing for weight ans space reasons but have ended up using them virtually all the time. They are light and compact ... allow you to carry 25-50 into the field. And, they virtually do away with the dust issue on film. It is also easier to make and keep notes on each shot ... just jot on the paper holder and after development the holders and negatives have distinct numbers that allow you to match them up. They are really not as expensive as they seem when you first start comparing prices because of their other advantages.

 

On the down side ... the # and type of films available are limited (not a huge problem) and they do cost more.

 

i still use regular sheet film when I know I'm gong to have special needs on a shoot and want a different film ... but, even then I miss the quickloads.

And, just for information ... the Fujinon-W 250 mm that I have is at LEAST twice as large and twice as heavy as the Fujinon-A 240mm that I use for backpacking.

If the film was loosely rolled when removed from the camera, you may have gotten a little extra light exposure on one end.

In Sacramento, CA, USA ... Cox Custom B&W ... "black & white photographic lab offering custom film processing (including Pyro [using PMK]), custom fiber based printing [up to 48"x96"] , digital scanning and restoration. All work is done to museum standards." <P>

 

                   http://www.coxblackandwhitelab.com/index.html

Madison ... not a dumb question at all ... there should be a number which is displayed in the back of the camera. If there is not ... the number of clicks you turn for 6x6 exposures is usually 34 ... if you have the other (smaller) mask in I think it is 28 ... but you should be able to find this info by googling Holga. Good luck and good light.

I'm a little surprised to read the ISO ratings above ... I shoot ACROS at 80 ISO (and use both D-76 and Peceptol) with good results. I know some others that shoot it at 64 ISO and one at 120 ISO. Haven't heard the higher ISOs before ... I guess I'll have to try that.

I have this 6x6 mask but it doesn't fit any of my folders or other cameras ...

anybody recognize it?<div></div>

Ray ... I use both Quickloads and traditional film holders.

 

I love the Quickloads for backpacking or trekking around the city. They are light, no changing bag to carry. One film holder. No dust issues. Convenient for the note taking right on the Quickholder. But, as you say, they're expensive. You are also limited to just a few films.

 

My backpacking camera is an all metal Gowland Pocket camera that weighs in at just under 2 lbs with no lens. The weight is extremely light and it has all the movements (front rise/fall, front and rear swing and front and back tilt.) It does have some disadvantages ... no center detents among others ... takes a little getting used to but works great.) I carry 3 very lightweight lenses that are ... with the Feisol carbon fiber tripod (with the lightest ball head they make) are suitable in 95% of the conditions I want to shoot in. Total weight with camera, 3 lenses, loupe and 30 Quickloads is less than 10 lbs.

 

In my limited experience with 8x10, I would say that it is very difficult to try to match lenses for both 4x5 and 8x10. The few 8x10 lenses I've used were rented and were absolutely huge and heavy. I can't even imagine shooting 8x10 when backpacking ... even with a field camera and the lightest available lenses.

I've heard of sanding or roughing up the edges of the negative carrier to get rid of the straight edge appearance of the print borders ... sort of gives the print a rustic or unfinished look ... is that what you're talking about?

Boy ... you've started it now!

 

You've started out right ... go inexpensive but find a somewhat knowledgeable seller who can describe the lens, shutter, and bellows condition of what you're buying (and if using ebay ... has an excellent feedback rating.)

 

I'd go for a Bessa or a Zeiss ... they both are quality and they take nice pictures. That way, you can get familiar with an inexpensive camera's features to determine what you like ... and whether a coupled range finder is all that important to you ... and then you can move up to one of the big brother folders in the same line if you so desire.

 

I'd stay away from starting with a Crown or Speed Graphic (I use both in 2x3 and 4x5 and love them.) The nice thing about the Graphics is the interchangeable lenses so you can go wide or telephoto or upgrade lens quality without changing the camera. But, the nice thing about a folder is that you can stick it in your coat pocket ... so you will use it much more.

 

I agree with Robert about certo6 ... his stuff is all high quality ... but it will cost you. I'd save that for a more high end camera if you decide to move up. And the comment about slower shutter speeds is right on too ... I just timed my oldest Bessa with a Voightlander shutter: 125 = 1/84, 100 = 1/65, 50 = 1/33, and 25 = 1/23 (and that's pretty good!) But, you can adjust to the slower speeds once you figure out your camera's quirks.

Actually, not a dumb question at all ... once you've developed a few dozen sheets, you'll see the ease of taking them out.

 

But, keep asking the questions ... 1 in 10 questions will cause the rest of us to think "I wonder if that'd work" or will at least make us rethink something we never questioned before.

 

Have fun shooting ... and developing/printing ... and never stop questioning.

Price sounds awfully high unless it comes with a lot more gear or is an exceptional camera/lens.

 

If you haven't already, go to ebay, search "crown graphic", then click on the "completed listings" box in the left hand margin, and then click the "show items" bar at the bottom of the left hand margin. You'll find 4 pages of completed auctions with the final sales prices ... most still have the pictures along with the descriptions and list of included items. Looking through those will give you a very good idea of what a reasonable price should be.

 

The Crown Graphic is a great way to get into 4x5.

Don't know if they're similar but my Kodak 2 Folding Pocket Brownie has a little bump on each side near the top of each side (holding the camera with the carrying strap up) ... push both in and the back opens. Jim

150mm on a 4x5 is equivalent to a 45mm lens on a 35mm camera ... pretty much standard.

Christopher Perez and Kerry Thalmann tested a lot of LF lenses and reported their results ... an invaluable tool. The tests do include their observations of the Graphlex 135mm f4.7 Optar ... it doesn't include the image circle stats but does demonstrate that the Optar is plenty sharp ... even towards the corners. Here is a link to their web page: http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/testing.html

If your camera has through the lens metering you can simply meter through the filter. I'm no expert at this, but I think the metering errors mentioned by David above are less with Rollei IR than the more common Kodak HIE because Rollei is less sensitive on the higher IR wavelengths than HIE. David's advice to bracket is spot on.

 

I've had good luck with Rollei 400 ISO IR film with a red 25 filter shooting it at 50 ISO ... I use a Pentax Spotmeter (not a through the lens meter) and set the spotmeter dial to 50 ISO ... works great.

 

Good luck.

Kodak HIE is generally the favorite but is supposedly being discontinued ... will be produced through December 2007 I believenand then sold until it's gone.

 

Efke and Rollei both make B&W infrared but they are not as sensitive as HIE on the top frequencies or as grainy. I've used about 4 rolls of the Rollei ... the grain is finer than HIE and the infrared characteristics are less drastic ... I actually preferred a little less effect.

 

So, you may want to stock up on HIE ... but remember infrared film has a relatively short expiration period and at $13 per roll it's a little risky to lay too much away.

I think the price is pretty good ... especially with the inclusion of the hard case, film holders, sheet film, loupe, and the Polaroid 545 (about $50-75 all by itself.) The camera looks to be in exceptionally good condition.

 

The big advantage of the Speed Graphic over the Crown is the focal plane shutter. It will allow you to use barrel lenses (no shutter)... which will get you into higher quality lenses for less money (you're not paying for the shutter ... and the focal plane shutter works for all size lenses.) It will also get you to higher shutter speeds (originally 1/1000 but slower with age ... but still faster than virtually all of the older shutters)... nice with 400 ISO film when shooting outside.

 

I would want to know if the range finder works and how bright it is.

 

I have about 4 Speed Graphics and 5 Crown Graphics ... I love them ... and you will be surprised how sharp the Optar lenses are ... they get kind of a bad rap against the modern multi-element, multi-coated lenses ... but for the vast majority of pictures they are plenty sharp. A lot of great classic photos were shot with tessars. My favorite lens is the 203 mm Ektar (a fairly common lens on the Graphics) and I have some nice new Schneider and Fuji lenses to choose from.

 

Good luck.

Not sure what you mean by "the biggest enlargements I can get on 8 x 10 paper" ... if you're going to print the entire 6x10 negative frame on 8x10 paper, your 105 is fine.

Thanks for posting this ... one comment/question: In the linked section titled "The Mercury Battery Dilema" there is a chart that seems to contradict the text's statement that the zinc air cells are short-lived. The chart shows the zinc air cell as the longest lasting battery type ... considerably longer than the recommended silver oxide battery. Does anyone out there know which is correct?

Maybe you're thinking of KEH ( www.keh.com )

Robbie ... one more thing ... if the Speed Graphic has the "Graflok" back ( http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/features.html#GraflokBack ) you can use easy to find roll back fill holders that allow you to shoot 120 film rolls. This makes the shutter testing easier and quicker because it allows you to shoot a lot of test shots much more economically and with less effort in the processing. To find the holders, check ebay or put a want ad on one of the large format sites http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/ or http://www.photo.net/ ).. when shopping for the backs, make sure you specify 4x5 because there are 2x3 and 3x4 backs also. The home page for the best Graflex information site is http://www.graflex.org/

Robbie ... good choice to start with ... your 135 mm is probably a Graphex Optar, Wollensak Raptar, or Schneider Xenar ... any of which is plenty sharp for general usage. It'll allow you to experiment with LF to see if it's what you want and to give you some experience without committing tons of cash. If possible, have the shutter timed by a camera repair store (probably only available in larger cities) ... or run some early exposure tests to get a feel for the true speeds ... the older shutters will usually run slow. One other quick note on movements for landscape ... the Graphics were set up to tilt in the opposite direction from normal landscape tilt usage ... but, the front standard can be removed and reversed if you find it necessary. If you have any questions about the Speed Graphic when you start playing with it, feel free to contact me at billg7@midtown.net. Enjoy! Jim in Sacramento

Here's a picture of one for comparison: