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christian_harkness

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Posts posted by christian_harkness

  1. Ben, I use Neopan 1600 a lot. Rating it at an EI of 1000 and then

    developing it by averaging the times Fuji gives for the film rated at

    1600 and 800.

     

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    Plenty fine grain for 8x10. I usually do mine up to at least 11x14.

     

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    chris

     

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    Although you didn't ask, I would recommend using a 50mm or even wide

    angle lens for that kind of work.

  2. Trica, there should be/have been instructions with the enlarging

    paper. Usually they are on a piece of paper in the box.

     

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    I recommend you develop RC paper for 1 minute, then stop and fix.

    The amount of fixing time depends on the paper fixer. For example, I

    fix my Ilford paper for only 30 seconds, as per their recommendations.

     

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    Fiber paper should probably be in the developer from 3 to 5 minutes,

    then stooped and fixed.

     

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    The thing is, RC is fully developed after 1 minute and then just gets

    darker all over. With fiber, the print develops up to about 5

    minutes or so. Thus you have more control over the appearance of the

    print with fiber than with RC.

     

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    chris

  3. I am not sure on how many changes of water, if you don't have running

    water. However I believe as long as you are consistent in what you

    do, you will be ok. For starters I would try a couple of changes of

    water and letting it sit for a couple of minutes at least. Be sure

    you monitor your fixer.

     

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    chris

  4. I agree with DK. You should be thinking of using RC paper instead of

    film. For one thing, you than can handle the loading and unloading

    under a safe light.

     

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    You need a darkroom, developing trays, chemicals, timer, beakers &

    etc for this. So, if you don't have ANY of this stuff and have never

    done it before, this is a bit of a complex undertaking. In any

    event, you should be thoroughly familiar with it yourself before you

    bring the kids into this. Otherwise they will be turned off,

    because 'it doesn't work."

     

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    chris

  5. Miriam, go with T-Max 3200 and T-Max developer. If that is too

    grainy go with it @1600. Also use the best 50mm 1.4 lens for your

    camera you can get. Then just go for it. You need to go and do it,

    if that's what you are interested in - shoot first and ask questions

    later!

     

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    chris

  6. Well Michael, if there is a camera store in your area, that's your

    best bet. They can answer your questions. If you will take a look

    at the Black & White splash page you will see this link: Adorama.com

    has what you need!!!. Just click on it and you can mail order

    everything you need. Also B&H is a good source.

     

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    chris

  7. Well, the interesting thing is that probably nothing, or very little

    has changed since your college photo lab days.

     

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    This is a pretty good book on the basics of photography:

     

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    Black and White Photography : A Basic Manual

    by Henry Horenstein, Carol Keller(Illustrator) (Paperback - August

    1983)

     

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    I find B&H and Adorama good places for mail - order:

     

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    http://www.bhphotovideo.com

     

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    http://www.adorama.com

     

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    Freestyle in CA is also good, but you have to do more 'picking and

    choosing' as their prices are all over the place. Some items are a

    good deal, others - pretty expensive.

     

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    As I have said repeatedly on this forum, I like the Sprint line of

    chemistry, available from both B&H and Adorama, except B&H is not

    shipping Sprint paper developer at present, so go to Adorama and

    order one liter bottles of: film developer, paper developer, stop,

    fixer, and fixer remover. It is all for dilution 1:9 with excellent

    instructions on the bottles. [You will hear MANY other opinions, I

    do think this is an excellent way to get going.]

    Also get Photoflo from Kodak, or the equivalent from somebody else.

    Get a small bottle of Hypo check from Edwal. For paper, start with

    Ilford MG IV Deluxe in whatever surface you think you prefer. Get a

    Beseler 23 C enlarger or something like that, with a good Nikon or

    Schneider lens, a set of filters from Ilford A four blade easel from

    Saunders, a digital timer, a safelight, a two reel Patterson tank,

    thermometer, some measuring beakers & storage bottles, 11x14 in

    trays, tongues, a static cloth from Ilford.

     

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    If you have any money left over, take a friend and go out to dinner!

     

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    chris

  8. I strongly agree with Wolfram. Use bulk film, if you can. Your

    school should have a bulk loader. I also take it that you are using

    school chemistry - so just go with that. Freestyle [if you really

    compare prices] sometimes has some real bargains on bulk film.

    Usually in their Arista or the Ilford line.

     

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    chris

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