christian_harkness
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Posts posted by christian_harkness
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Ben, I use Neopan 1600 a lot. Rating it at an EI of 1000 and then
developing it by averaging the times Fuji gives for the film rated at
1600 and 800.
<p>
Plenty fine grain for 8x10. I usually do mine up to at least 11x14.
<p>
chris
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Although you didn't ask, I would recommend using a 50mm or even wide
angle lens for that kind of work.
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I use Neopan 1600 a lot with a red filter. I shot at an EI of 1000
and develop for the interpolated time between 1600 and 800
recommended by Fuji [in the little blurb that comes with each roll of
film].
<p>
chris
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Give Fuji a call - I am sure they can tell you when it will be
available.
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chris
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.....time depends on the paper fixer.
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This should have read:
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...time depends on the paper and fixer.
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chris
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Trica, there should be/have been instructions with the enlarging
paper. Usually they are on a piece of paper in the box.
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I recommend you develop RC paper for 1 minute, then stop and fix.
The amount of fixing time depends on the paper fixer. For example, I
fix my Ilford paper for only 30 seconds, as per their recommendations.
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Fiber paper should probably be in the developer from 3 to 5 minutes,
then stooped and fixed.
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The thing is, RC is fully developed after 1 minute and then just gets
darker all over. With fiber, the print develops up to about 5
minutes or so. Thus you have more control over the appearance of the
print with fiber than with RC.
<p>
chris
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Jim, I used to do Tri-X in Tmax and got beautiful results.
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chris
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I agree with Bill, as much as I like grain, I hate 3200 developed in
Rodinal - but you did not ask that question.
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chris
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@3200, Rodinal 1:25 = 8 minutes, Rodinal 1:50 = 16 minutes. Sorry,
don't have times for 6400.
<p>
chris
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I am not sure on how many changes of water, if you don't have running
water. However I believe as long as you are consistent in what you
do, you will be ok. For starters I would try a couple of changes of
water and letting it sit for a couple of minutes at least. Be sure
you monitor your fixer.
<p>
chris
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Hey, that should have been 'for film I use water'! Duhhhhhhhh
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chris
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For prints I use water.
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chris
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Joe, I would try developing in Rodinal.
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chris
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Ahm! This is one strange topic!
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chris
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I agree with DK. You should be thinking of using RC paper instead of
film. For one thing, you than can handle the loading and unloading
under a safe light.
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You need a darkroom, developing trays, chemicals, timer, beakers &
etc for this. So, if you don't have ANY of this stuff and have never
done it before, this is a bit of a complex undertaking. In any
event, you should be thoroughly familiar with it yourself before you
bring the kids into this. Otherwise they will be turned off,
because 'it doesn't work."
<p>
chris
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Miriam, go with T-Max 3200 and T-Max developer. If that is too
grainy go with it @1600. Also use the best 50mm 1.4 lens for your
camera you can get. Then just go for it. You need to go and do it,
if that's what you are interested in - shoot first and ask questions
later!
<p>
chris
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You'r welcome?
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chris
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Well Michael, if there is a camera store in your area, that's your
best bet. They can answer your questions. If you will take a look
at the Black & White splash page you will see this link: Adorama.com
has what you need!!!. Just click on it and you can mail order
everything you need. Also B&H is a good source.
<p>
chris
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Thanks! Looks intersting - chris
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Well, the interesting thing is that probably nothing, or very little
has changed since your college photo lab days.
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This is a pretty good book on the basics of photography:
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Black and White Photography : A Basic Manual
by Henry Horenstein, Carol Keller(Illustrator) (Paperback - August
1983)
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I find B&H and Adorama good places for mail - order:
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Freestyle in CA is also good, but you have to do more 'picking and
choosing' as their prices are all over the place. Some items are a
good deal, others - pretty expensive.
<p>
As I have said repeatedly on this forum, I like the Sprint line of
chemistry, available from both B&H and Adorama, except B&H is not
shipping Sprint paper developer at present, so go to Adorama and
order one liter bottles of: film developer, paper developer, stop,
fixer, and fixer remover. It is all for dilution 1:9 with excellent
instructions on the bottles. [You will hear MANY other opinions, I
do think this is an excellent way to get going.]
Also get Photoflo from Kodak, or the equivalent from somebody else.
Get a small bottle of Hypo check from Edwal. For paper, start with
Ilford MG IV Deluxe in whatever surface you think you prefer. Get a
Beseler 23 C enlarger or something like that, with a good Nikon or
Schneider lens, a set of filters from Ilford A four blade easel from
Saunders, a digital timer, a safelight, a two reel Patterson tank,
thermometer, some measuring beakers & storage bottles, 11x14 in
trays, tongues, a static cloth from Ilford.
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If you have any money left over, take a friend and go out to dinner!
<p>
chris
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Sergey, if you have access to a library try to get a hold of this
book:
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The Art of Infrared Photography
by Joseph Paduano (Paperback - February 1998)
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chris
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Paul, are you developing your own b&w, and have you been doing it for
a while, or are you sending it out to a lab?
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chris
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I strongly agree with Wolfram. Use bulk film, if you can. Your
school should have a bulk loader. I also take it that you are using
school chemistry - so just go with that. Freestyle [if you really
compare prices] sometimes has some real bargains on bulk film.
Usually in their Arista or the Ilford line.
<p>
chris
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I agree. I have used Sprint chemicals in combination with Ilford,
Kodak & Agfa chemistry, and have had no problems.
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chris
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YIIIIIIIIIIIIIpes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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D 76 1:1 NOT Dektol!!!!!!!!!!
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chris
Infra Red Film
in Black & White Practice
Posted
Mine fogged on me once after I loaded into the developing tank and
let that sit around for a couple of days before processing it.
<p>
chris