christian_harkness
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Posts posted by christian_harkness
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Kevin, I am a poor organizer too. Here is my system:
I put each roll into a clear negative page [Clear -File] consisting of 5 negatives across and 7 rows down, and file this in a 3 ring binder. Usually one sheet is enough for one roll, sometimes I go over a couple of exposures. These I file in a new page. Then I number the page with a 'Sharpie' pen as follows: year/month/# of roll. Thus the first roll in July of 2002 would be: 020701. I also write subject & etc info on top of the sheet.
Then I make a contact sheet, hole punch it, and put it in the binder, in front of the negative page. That way each little contact image has the corresponding negative filed right behind it.
As I make a print, I enter the following info into my darkroom log:
Subject/Title Negative number i.e. 020701-33
Enlarger- [setting]
F-stop -
Filter - dodging & burning info
Time -
This system now has worked for me for years and years. I put the dates on the outside of each 3 ring binder as it fills up. Ideally, I would put the darkroom info on a 3x5 card and file it by number, or do the same thing in the computer and thus get a much more searchable system.
Hope this helps somewhat!
chris
p.s. Looks like I have lost most of my formating in the above. Hope you can still figure it out.
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James, I would address my question directly to Eolo. Here is his web site:
http://www.smallstudio.com/eolo/
chris
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Here is a quote from a Photo District News [PDN] forum talking about digital:
"I just read an article in American Photography tonight about Hollywood portrait & glamour photographer Greg Gorman now using an Epson 9600 to print both his color and B&W work. He scans his film(when he's shooting film) with an 8,000 DPI scanner, imports it into PS7, works with the images, sharpens a little with Nik Sharpener Pro, then outputs with the 9600.
The article showed him holding a 44X? inch color print of Jodie Foster, but also showed some impressive B&W prints of his work such as the photo of Djimon(?)on the cover, plus Iman, Leo DiCaprio, Elton John and others.
Gorman is the second big name pro I can think of using the 7600/9600 series. Joyce Tennesson also used one of them for an exhibit a couple months ago. "
chris
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Nic, what I am also getting at was that, although I am an 'old school' wet darkroom guy, I believe that digital photography is basically 'here', and that somebody just getting started needs to think hard if they want to invest the time and energy in a traditional darkroom vs. a digital, or partially digital set up.
chris
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I sure agree with Richard and Joey, find a Photo 101 course somewhere. Yes and get an all manual camera.
I am a little puzzled by your statement that you want to get a film camera so that you "...can actually start playing around with things a little bit..." You certainly can do that, and then some, with a digital camera and good image editing software and an Epson printer.
Of course, if you want to learn the 'wet darkroom - just because...', that is good enough.
chris
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David, thanks so very much for dropping by now and then. It sure is nice to get some good info directly from the 'horse's mouth.'!
chris
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Ryuji, Ilford recommends using water - instead of an acid stop bath.
chris
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I totally agree with Craig, and yes, plastic tanks are just fine. For the beginner they are actually much better, since they are easier to use.
chris
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Marc, I have had no problems doing that. I do understand that theoretically light leaks onto the image and degrades it. For one thing, I usually burn in all around the edges anyhow.
I use negative carriers made out of two pieces of four ply mat board, and they have been working fine for me. You may want to try that and avoid having to pay the extra money for a new carrier.
chris
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Melisa, metering might come into play here also. As a rule of thumb, when metering off Caucasian skin [face] you need to then open up a stop in order to get a more correct exposure.
chris
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Hey - you will get 6669.7 different answers on this one. I'll stick
my neck out and recommend Rodinal 1:100 for all of them.
<p>
chris
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Rob, you have nothing to apologize for. You may want to consider
posting your question on the Photo District News [PDN] Tech Bulletin
Forum:
<p>
<p>
chris
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That one really got messed up - here is what it should have said:
<p>
Well, I think if you can possibly manage it, start by taking an intro
class/workshop at a college or arts center. Be sure you sign up for
a class that gets you into the darkroom, with hands-on experience.
While I really like XP-2S and chromogenic films, I think you might be
frustrated by getting straight, and often lousy prints, form your
local photo finisher. Much of what you see as the beauty of black
and white photography, comes from superb printing [enlarging] of the
negative. This is something you won't get from the majority of your
labs.
<p>
If you have to teach yourself I recommend:
Black and White Photography: A Basic Manual -- by Henry Horenstein,
Carol Keller (Illustrator); Paperback Price: $17.47 {At amazon]
<p>
Computers and digital prints are really coming into their own. If
you are willing to forgo the traditional darkroom, you can get superb
results working with a good imaging program and a good scanner and
printer.
<p>
Best wishes,
<p>
chris
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Well, I think if you can possibly manage it, start by taking an intro
class/workshop at a college or arts center. Be sure you sign up for
a class that gets you into the darkroom, with hands-on experience.
While I really like XP-2S and chromogenic films, I think you might be
frustrated by getting straight, and often lousy prints, form your
local photo finisher. Much of what you see as the beauty of black
and white photography, comes from superb printing [enlarging] of the
negative. This is something you won't get from the majority of your
labs.
<p>
If you have to teach yourself I recommend:
Well, I think if you can possibly manage it, start by taking an intro
class/workshop at a college or arts center. Be sure you sign up for
a class that gets you into the darkroom, with hands-on experience.
While I really like XP-2S and chromogenic films, I think you might be
frustrated by getting straight, and often lousy prints, form your
local photo finisher. Much of what you see as the beauty of black
and white photography, comes from superb printing [enlarging] of the
negative. This is something you won't get from the majority of your
labs.
<p>
If you have to teach yourself I recommend:
Well, I think if you can possibly manage it, start by taking an intro
class/workshop at a college or arts center. Be sure you sign up for
a class that gets you into the darkroom, with hands-on experience.
While I really like XP-2S and chromogenic films, I think you might be
frustrated by getting straight, and often lousy prints, form your
local photo finisher. Much of what you see as the beauty of black
and white photography, comes from superb printing [enlarging] of the
negative. This is something you won't get from the majority of your
labs.
<p>
If you have to teach yourself, I recommend:
<p>
Black and White Photography: A Basic Manual -- by Henry Horenstein,
Carol Keller (Illustrator); Paperback Price: $17.47 [At amazon]
<p>
Computers and inkjet prints are really coming into their own. If you
are willing to forgo the traditional darkroom, you can get superb
results working with a good imaging program and a good scanner and
printer.
<p>
Best wishes,
<p>
chris
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I certainly agree with Joe, and think going digital would give you so
much more creative control & freedom.
<p>
chris
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Sure Betsy, why not? As long as your enlarger/lens combination will
accept the size negative you have.
<p>
chris
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I know you did not ask this question, but..... I highly recommend
you try both films in Rodinol 1:100 for 20 minutes @ 70 degrees with
two minute agitation at the beginning and then five seconds every
minute. I also use the combination with Neopan 400 and love the
results. You may want to lower your EI to about 80.
<p>
chris
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Gabe, in Photoshop, when you click on 'Image' and then 'Image Size,'
what do you get for the size. It should be at the dimension in which
you want to print the final image.
<p>
chris
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Well, I put a clothes pin at the bottom while it is drying. - Are you
using a hardening fix? Sorry, what do you mean by 'putting it
through the printer?'
<p>
chris
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I remember David Vestal writing in one of his books that, when he
moved from Boston to Chicago [ I believe], he had re-do his entire
developing/printing routine due to the changes in the water.
<p>
chris
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Reinier, now wait a minute, 'silver' are regular b&w prints
with 'off the self' enlarging paper. Are you familiar and 'at-home'
with black & white printing/darkroom procedures? If not, I believe
platinum/palladium prints might be a bit of a reach.
<p>
chris
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Hi Steevens, I am not sure I have an answer. What you described has
never happened to me. Infrared film is a lot thinner than regular
film, and thus requires more delicate and patient handling all
around. However, I don't treat it differently from regular film when
loading.
Make sure your reels are set properly. It almost sounds to me like
they were just a bit too far apart to properly grab the film. If
your film was ruined, use it for some practice loading drills.
<p>
Good luck.
<p>
chris
Negative filing system
in Black & White Practice
Posted
Rene, 8.5 x 11 .... uhhh? Where do you get that?
chris