reportsfromluke

Hello, all.

 

I am in the market for a few spare tripod quick release plates to fit my two Bogen-Manfrotto tripod heads (a 3130 and a 3030 head). Could someone who knows tell me what part number or compatible part I can use to mount? Thanks so much for the help, I'm getting dizzy trying to find the correct part.

Hello, all.

 

I hope some wise soul out there could tell me what this threaded female port on the canopy of my Bogen-Manfrotto 3221 tripod is for. A level? Some other kind of accessory? Pics of my tripod below.

 

If they are fundamentally the same, what accounts for the tremendous price difference between the generations?

Hello everyone. I am looking to acquire a Nikkor 135mm for a trip, and I've found myself with several options. Consensus has it that the

135 2.8 AIs is an extremely high quality piece of equipment. But, I want to know if there is a serious optical difference between the NAI, AI

and AIs versions of this lens. If it is worth my while, I will buy a NAI version and send it off for conversion, as long as it is optically

comparable to the newer versions of the lens at the same 2.8 f stop. I hope someone can summarize the differences between the

generations and offer an opinion whether the extra money is worth spending, or if a negligible difference exists.

 

I thank you kindly.

 

 

-R

<p>I thank everyone who shared their experiences and opinions.</p>

<p>I misspoke. I am looking for strobe heads to use with the powerpack.</p>

<p>I hope to build studio strobe system that involves a Nikon D700 DSLR, a Norman 2000D powerpack, some monolights I have yet to decide on, and Pocketwizard flash trigger. Can anyone offer me any wisdom on how such a system may work? i need to know about the types of monolight I need and safety precautions. many thanks</p><div></div>

<p>There is a plugin for G'MIC and GIMP. It is a set of film emulation filters:<br /> http://blog.patdavid.net/2013/08/film-emulation-presets-in-gmic-gimp.html<br /> Flexible with many choices. <br /><br /><br />http://imgur.com/MLu2Ygu<br>

This imgur.com link is a screenshot of the 'Film Emulator' in G'MIC</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am interested in constructing a timed flash unsing this Rollei E27C flash unit. This unit can emit a flash every five seconds when plugged in. In my mind I have an idea for a unit that can control a flash unit with the parameters of recurrance and duration. I have the unit's power adapter and have it in mind to be able to control the recurrance of a flash (useful range of recurrance= 1 flash per second-1 flash every 6 hours).<br>

URLs are pictures<br>

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/screenshot20110607at124d.png/<br>

The outer circle on this dial is recurrance and the inner dial is duration with a range of 30 seconds to infinity (e.g the unit will emit a flash every 10 seconds for the next 8 hours). I apologize if the idea is abstract at the moment. But I am looking for some advice about how to develop this idea. How can i adapt my idea to this unit and be able to control the two aspects I need. Thanks again.<br>

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/233/0607111223.jpg/</p>

<p>Minox B requires no battery. Use your favorite fine grain developer, a little dilute, with a minute or so extended development time. No new neg carrier needed, rig up a mask to fit the existing with some paper. Cheap and easy</p>

<p>What is the difference between e-6 fixer and B+W fixer? Is there any use in using e-6 fixer for b+w film? Thanks a lot<br>

-R</p>

<p>I've had good experience with Microdol-X, but its scarce. What available chemistry do you like to use with 9.5mm?</p>

<p>-R</p>

<p>Thanks for watching, Robert. Although inexpensive, I like the method I use since I can store several rolls in a single sleeve. I am posting the direct link to the item you mentioned for anyone curious:<br>

http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/de/index.cgi?func=det&wkid=11812164765317115&rub1=Archivierung&rub2=&artnr=3647&pn=0&sort=2&all=&items=</p>

<p>Derek, Welcome to the Minox realm.<br>

http://www.geocities.com/markhahn2000/developing_minox_film.html<br>

details a method to develop the film. You could also use an uncut roll of 35mm to tape the leader and end of the Minox film (remember the emulsion side must be out to bathe in the chemicals). With the 9.5 taped to the 35mm, load onto a reel and develop. With enough patience with using your Minox you'll become really good at handling small items in the dark. My suggestion to someone starting off is to learn to reload the cartridges so you are not spending absurd amounts of money on film.</p>

<p>http://www.vimeo.com/3451162</p>

<p>I devised this technique to safely and inexpensively store minox negatives. Please watch the video I made on Vimeo:<br>

http://www.vimeo.com/3451162</p>

<p>please let me know what you think.</p>

<p>best,<br>

-R</p>

<p>The Nikon D90 DSLR is capable of high definition video at 24fps. The samples Nikon provides:<br /> http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/d90/en/d-movie/#c-4<br /> <br /> I find the appearance pleasing, and for my purposes may serve well to film my projections. I've seen other DSLR's that can capture video at a high frame rate, but never thought of using one digitize. Has anyone attempted to use this mode to convert their s8 or 16mm projections to digital? If so, how did it turn out?</p>

I'm looking for the times using this developer in some Plus-X (100/80 iso) and Tri-X (200/160 iso) film. The film is intended for reversal, but I'm souping for negatives, so there is little info out. Thanks for any help.

 

-R

I'm trying to negative process two cartridges of Plus-X and Tri-X reversal Super 8. Microdol-X is the chosen

developer, I've heard that slower acting developers work well. How long can these films go in Microdol-x at a 1:3

dilution? Tri-X is 200/160 iso and Plus-X is 100/80. On the film there is an anti-halation layer on film. How

can I be sure the side is indeed that layer and not my precious emulsion? When the proper side is identified, how

can it be removed before my developer step? I've heard a quick dip in household bleach followed by a rinse works,

as well as scrubbing it with a sponge. What methods have people used? This operation requires a lot more finesse

than my usual couple 35mm rolls. Has anyone else taken this kind of operation on? Any help or guidelines are

helpful. Thanks

 

-R

Thank you. How can these be avoided? They're called "Newton rings"?

I scanned some old Delta 400 (from 1996, i expected there to be some fogging, artifacts, etc) and found that

there is this odd thing in many of the photos. Can anyone identify what it is?

 

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=mjrfco&s=4

Minox scan Fuji APX 200. Love the grain

use the transparent sheets used for overhead projectors, cut a piece two times the width of the type of film the holder is. Fold the piece so the folded piece is the width of film the holder takes. With this folded piece cut as much as you need to place the minox film, held by the mask, but not between the fold. This way the scanner's light only needs to pass through one layer of film, not three... Basically, http://www.wonko.net/mnoxmask.html..with the mask made out of the plastic. Watch out for dust. best of luck.

Art is as long as someone says it is, just don't expect others to think the same thing.

I sent Matt a thank you note for his insightful reply. To place it like an aphorism, a photograph takes a reality, in three dimensions and places it on a flat, portable plane. Everything the photographer saw, is there on the photo, however, there is something behind everything you see. You are only seeing the sides. Secondly, the Brahmin philosophy proposes finding a way to reveal all contexts They believe, through meditation it can be revealed. Yes it is true that on earth, all contexts are not revealed, but a photograph only appeals to the senses we can use.