chris_burgess3

Yes, he did install light seals, and I was wondering about the light seals being involved. I'll contact Mr. Oikawa and find out what he'd like to do. Thanks for all the advice.

Hi to all,

I had a strange happening today. I use an early Canon F1 without the film tab holder on the back, and I use an Optech strap with it. I strap it across my self, and then swing it forward to take a shot, then put it back on my side. I ride a bicycle to and from the subjects that I find to shoot. On the way back from my photography, I heard a noise. I thought I'd dropped something, so I stopped immediately, and found my camera back had popped open. I had carefully loaded the film, and about 2 months ago, I put thru a roll of film thru with no issues. I've just put 2 rolls thru it since it's come back from Ken Oikawa. Has anyone had this happen?

Thanks

<p>Yes, you have to enter the lenses in a database, and give the focal length and maximum aperture. I use some AI'd lenses from the early 60's and it works fine. </p>

<p>Oh, was I dumb! Thanks, nothing wrong then, good news. I guess I was used to using my D7000, you do get them with that. Thanks for the responses.</p>

<p>I have a Nikon N90s, and I've taken it out to use it, it's been stored for a couple of years in climate controlled conditions, and I've noticed that the meter seems to work fine, but I'm not getting any aperture readout on the top display or in the viewfinder, only lines. I've tried several different lenses, no change. I use older manual lenses, I've never used af lenses on it. I just put in new, topped up eneloop batteries in it. I've tried with and without the MB-10, no change. I do have an MF-25 data back on it, which seems to work fine. I think I could use the camera as is fine, I'm used to checking my aperture setting on my lenses visually anyway. Anyone have any tricks to 'wake up' the aperture readout?</p>

<p>Steve P, quite an impressive change in the photo that you worked on. Would you say that I could do something similar in Gimp? Steve C, I just send my film to North Coast Photo, and have them develop the film, do a hi rez scan, and have them send me back the negatives and a DVD. Yes, I'm sure the way the photos look reflects how North Coast thinks they should look. </p>

<p>Thanks, I appreciate the wise counsel.</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone who has helped out; I have one other photo; I'm guessing it's grossly underexposed - would I be right?</p><div></div>

<p>Hello,<br /> Yes, I use a Sekonic L-358 external meter. I probably misadjusted the exposure for the polarizer after getting the reading.</p>

<p>Hello Les,<br /> Thanks a lot, I underexposed then. Being Ektar, if I had used more exposure, would the clouds have had as much definition without the polarizer? </p>

<p>Greetings,<br>

I shot a few rolls of Kodak Ektar last summer with my Canon FX and FL 50mm 1.8, using a polarizer. Much of my subjects turned out dark, almost black. Any ideas on how I screwed up? I sent the film to North Coast photo for scanning and development. </p><div></div>

<p>Looks like it only covers AF lenses; I use only older AI's and AI'd lenses. Guess I won't need it.</p>

<p>Rodeo, I thought about the possibility of the batteries being used up at the very end of the exposure last night, that could have been it. I do have an MF-25 data back on it, I've heard that an MF-26 can drain timed exposures, so it could have been a cause too. I like the camera, but this model does tend to kill batteries; You need to have at least two sets of rechargeables with one set charged and ready at all times.<br /> Thanks</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I just took a timed exposure in bulb mode on my Nikon N90s and I heard the shutter open when I depressed the trigger remote, and heard the shutter close when I released the remote, but I don't think I heard the film advance after the shutter closed. I know, all I'd have to do is change the exposure mode and press the shutter release with the lens covered and the film would probably advance to the next frame, no problem, but has anyone heard of this happening? I had it CLA'd by Midwest Camera Repair around 1 1/2 years ago, it's been working perfectly, I love the camera. <br>

Thanks</p>

<p>I'm an outlier, I still shoot film w/Nikon N90s, but it does have a spot meter, and when I use it, in sun, I usually meter my shadow or something close to fresh blacktop. Spot metering a black bear is like metering the mouth of a coal mine. Looks like in the last exposure the subjects aren't illuminated by the sun; if so, you could've use ambient, you would have nailed it. You're actually doing two things that highlight poor judgement; spot metering a black bear and coming within eating range of that thing. Good luck, grizzly man.</p>

<p>You mention you're a photographer. Why couldn't you come up with some nice images you've taken yourself for her little website? I'm assuming you have a modicum of talent. Cheaper way to go.</p>

<p>Yes, I can cycle it so that [PRINT] doesn't display, and there's just -- -- -- instead of time and month. Could that be the shutoff?</p>

<p>Yes, I have a copy of the manual, and it even says at the beginning that it can be set to not imprint, but for the life of me, I can't find it mentioning it after that. If anyone knows the trick, please let me know.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I know, this is an incredibly dumb question, but here goes. I have a Nikon N90s camera, love it, but would like to not have my MF-25 back imprint anything on the film. I'm in the middle of a roll, so I'd like to know, if I just take the batteries out of the back, will the back not print anything on the film on the rest of the roll?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Ricoh Diacord, double exposure prevention? I just got back a set of exposures from NCPS, and I've got 3 doubles. Go figure.</p>

<p>I must say, I also have had an F-1 CLA'd by Bob Watkins at Precision Camera, I had to wait a little while, he evidently can be called out for projects, but it was also an excellent job.</p>

<p>Mr. Ken Oikawa-san.</p>

<p>I'll probably end up with a copy of the Brian Long book myself.<br>

Thanks to all for the info.</p>

 

<p>Hello,<br>

Are there any noticeable differences in optical performance between the earlier Nikkor P 10.5cm f2.5 (9 aperture blades) and the later Nikkor P 105mm f2.5 (6 aperture blades) Sonnars? I'm not referring to the later Xenotars, just the Sonnar design lenses. If there are, could you please describe the differences?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

What are some of the best books on the history of Canon FL and FD SLR's and FL and FD lenses, with good illustrations and photos, showing each model and going back to the beginning and thru, say the AE-1? I already have the "Canon Manual Focus SLRs" book by Eric Skopec. Do I already have the best one? <br>

Thanks</p>