chris_burgess3

<p>Thanks for the info, Bob, I just took mine apart by unscrewing the screws, cleaned it and reassembled it. It's a lot cleaner. Didn't know the screws just held it together; You have to carefully take the little strip of clear tape off surrounding the elements first; It still wanted to stick, pretty good tape to last that long. I always thought the screws had only something to do with attaching it to the camera housing.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have a simple question; I have a Nikon F 'J' screen with some debris between the two elements of the screen; can the screen be dismantled to clean between the elements? If so, how?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Here's a question; Do you think the electronics in something like a Nikon FE or F3 will last longer than the electronics in today's DSLRs? My F3 is a 16xxxxxxx, so it was made around what, 84? I had my F3 and FE's CLA'd recently, one of the FE's needed a FRE, which I luckily was able to have replaced, otherwise they're fine. </p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I was the owner of a Nikon F 2 or 3 years ago (of course I mistakenly sold it, and have purchased another one; this one's never being sold) and my previous F had an interesting screen; I can't get too technical about the description, other than to say that it had a plain background, and a textured, central circle that would reflect light in such a way that the central circle looked eerily like a rough textured, barren planet, with light sources reflected off the central circle in such a way that it looked like the sun was shining on the 'planet' from that direction. Of course, I am now in search of the same screen again. Does anyone know which screen this is?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Yea, the ISO capabilities of film cameras are on the ISO knob. It depends on the film you are using. Fast film is grainer, slow film has less grain. Film grain is much more attractive than digital noise. Film grain is a creative tool.</p>

<p>Thanks for the Xylene tip.</p>

<p>I have read that they are two different prisms, that one won't fit the other.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have sent a Nikon F plain prism to a company to be resilvered. They have tried soaking in acetone to remove the protective paint; it didn't budge. They are about to go out and purchase some MEK and try using that. Any advice on what they should be using to remove the paint?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Eric installed a new shutter in my otherwise mint S2; he also needed to add the 1/1000 speed to do it; he does great work. I was lucky to know of him.</p>

<p>Hey, just received an e-mail from Spectrum Coatings in Deltona, FL, quoted me $32.00 total.</p>

<p>I think I can actually see mold now inside of the prism, but no separation. Does that complicate resilvering, or would it not be a problem?</p>

<p>May have found one;<br>

www.bearglass.com</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I own a Nikon F, #65xxxxxx, and I'm sending it to Pete Smith at Fotocamera, and I was curious, the plain prism finder on mine has a light tan haze, light sources have a slight glow ring in spots, there is no distortion or anything missing in the image at all. Almost like there is a layer of gunk in it. There is also a little dirt, but I was just wondering, is something like that usually fixable by a repairperson so that it's clear again?</p>

<p>Hey Lex,<br>

You are a gift from the gods. It was the little indexing tab doodad; Whew! I had thoughts of the money I'd have to spend sending the thing in for repair. Yesterday, the shutter speed reading seemed to 'freeze' when I was out shooting; I thought it was the freezing weather; it was probably the indexing tab;<br>

Thanks to all,<br>

happy holidays!</p>

<p>Okay, I've loaded it with Fuji 400h, advanced it to frame 2, and I'm looking thru the viewfinder at the same spot on a wall; I'm getting 1/125, and I'm adjusting the lens from f1.8 to f22 (it's a 50mm 1.8 ai), and I'm getting 1/125 all the way; I'm waiting a second at each aperture stop to let the meter respond.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have what might very well be a really stupid question. I own a Nikon F3, had it CLA'd two months ago; and when I'm looking thru the viewfinder, on my camera, the shutter speed given when looking at the same subject doesn't change regardless of the aperture setting on the lens; for example, it will display 1/500 at the same subject at f2.8 and at f22. Is this correct? Is something wrong? I am doing this without film in the camera, if that makes a difference. If not, am I misinterpreting or doing something wrong?<br>

thanks</p>

<p>It's too bad, the cloth shutters are starting not to want to work in older cameras in the cold. I have an old Asahi Pentax S2, just had Eric Hendrickson slave over it, the original shutters would jam up if it was cloudy, damp and 65 degrees or under outside. Hence the need for metal shutters. Spotmatics next?</p>

<p>Mark Hodos; lots of money, short attention span.</p>

<p>Correct. I found a quote - "All the Fujicolor (color negative) Pro films incorporate fujifilm's proprietary 4th color layer technology. The addition of a 4th cyan-sensitive layer to the typical RGB sensitive layers helps simulate accurate color as the human eye perceives it."</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks for being so helpful.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have searched posts on this subject, I couldn't find direct discussion on it, so..<br>

I am planning on purchasing a Nikon 5000 or V ED scanner, and using Fuji film with it. I have heard scanning Fuji film with the 4th layer doesn't work well; is this just a rumor? Can it be scanned successfully?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>So you wouldn't recommend something like a Fuji Finepix S3 or S5 Pro, which I understand has a larger dynamic range? I must admit, I'm not sure if that translates into a larger tonal palette.</p>

<p>I have several manual focus Nikkors and manual Pentax Takumars, both super and auto. I would be using the camera for some landscape, some still life, and some street photography. I'd say about half the time, I would be creating slide shows for my living room TV, and half for printing; I would be having my printing done by a print shop.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I am in the process of choosing a DSLR to purchase; I'm just an amateur, but I would be doing a fair amount of black and white. Are there DSLRs that do a better job at black and white than others? I'm assuming dynamic range is an important aspect to consider, but is there anything else I should be thinking of? I do also own a Fuji 6x7 and a Ricoh Diacord. My max price is probably around 1k.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I am considering purchasing a Canon A-1 in the next few months. I would be using M-42 and older Nikkor manual lenses on it with adaptors, and I was wondering, considering the Canon A-1 is loaded with electronics, are any of them starting to fail at this point in time? It's more possible to repair mechanicals, and I suppose electronics can be cannibalized, but if certain things are starting to go on all of them....</p>

<p>Thanks</p>