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steve_d6

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Posts posted by steve_d6

  1. <p>I no longer use or need it. I strictly do black and white. It comes with at least one hundred new slides and many old reusable slides. It does work and is very cool as well !!!!<br>

    <br />Free to you. Just pay shipping. I'm located in Pennsylvania to allow you to approximate the ship cost.</p>

    <p>my email ----> bicycle551<br>

    the special at sign<br>

    comcast<br>

    dot<br>

    net<br>

    Steve</p>

  2. <p>Even if available, did you read the fine print re an order?<br>

    "The prices apply for the European market and include the 19% VAT applicable in Germany. The minimum order value is 20.00 Euros within Europe. For all non-European countries the minimum order value is 200.00 Euros."<br>

    Outside the EU, the minimun order is 200 euros!! Wow, never intended to buy film for my children and their children. Somehow the cost seems prohibitive.</p>

  3. <p>Yes, I understand. But home loading applies to very dedicated users. The average Minox owner probably doesn't have the equipment or interest in reloading in the dark. And, of course, commercial developers and printers of color film will quickly disappear. Without them, BW will be the only option.<br>

    <br />The film availability issue really is a barometer as to Minox's interest in supporting the camera as a viable user. Despite the assurances of 'continued support' and 'intent to supply film', I'm convinced the company has abandoned the format and loyal users.<br>

    <br />S</p>

  4. <p>I have several of these cameras to include the CLX. I noticed the meter window on one was missing. I then checked my other four or five. The meter windows on another three are also missing. I cried when I saw the CLX was missing it too. According to Don Goldberg, the windows are thinner than the C model. Nothing to be done other than replacement. Unfortunately, he doesn't have any as he indicates the company wants too much for them.<br>

    <br />Impossible to find if it pops out. Just too small. I've resorted to a piece of tape to keep the inner mechanism dust free. Disappointing nonetheless.<br>

    Anyone else have this problem?<br>

    Steve</p>

  5. <p>Thanks Martin.<br>

    This also occurred to me: remove battery from camera. Shutter won't work at all. But is there any mechanical movement opening the blades even slightly? Whenever I've looked from the inside of the camera, if the batteries were bad, I'd see no light at all. Seems this may be another approach, unless I'm overlooking something.<br>

    As far as developing 15 shots on a 36 roll, I'd just prefer to use the additional 20 or so.<br>

    thanks all<br>

    Steve</p>

     

  6. <p>I certianly can figure out how to do this with a fully manual focus camera. Just insert the film, set shutter speed to 125 or so, put on the lens cap or go into the closet and shoot off 15 or so shots of 'blackness' in order to protect the original shots on the roll.<br>

    But with the Minox 35, there is no way to control the shutter speed. Going into a dark room to shoot off 15 shots will only cause the shutter to remain open for several seconds on each shot. That's not good for the battery as it'll drain it and not good for the shutter as it'll overload the circuits.<br>

    Any way to do this?<br>

    steve</p>

  7. <p ><a name="00Z0da"></a><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=142096">jason gold</a>, said "I love my Rollei which has survived numerous impact tests. What a dumb place to put the strap when one changes film? The back is safe, the main frame goes earthward at 32f.p.s!"</p>

    <p >It is actually worse than that. It actually accelerates at the rate of "<em>g</em><em> = 32.174 ft/s<sup>2"</sup></em></p>

    <p ><em>It is the pesky little 'two" at the end of the equation responsible for camera body damage. I've proved it on many occassions!</em></p>

    <p ><em>Steve</em></p>

    <p> </p>

  8. <p>Can anyone direct me to a finishing lab doing this. I've been sending my rolls to Blue Moon, but the tiny prints are wearing me out. Too small. Way too small.<br>

    I remember the prints from the NY lab and they were able to cover the entire photo paper that B M uses. I just need a place with the capabilities of doing a different and larger print job without turning every shot into a 'custom print' at custom prices.</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

  9. <p>I have several B+W filters for the Minox 35. I'm interested in obtaining a rubber or metal lens hood to screw onto the threads on the front of the filter. I'm not interested in buying a new set of Minox brand filters w/the built in lens hood. Just one hood to use with all the filters.<br>

    Anyone know the thread diameter.<br>

    Steve?</p>

  10. <p>Hello all,<br>

    I recently obtained the ECX Flash with adapter for my various 8x11 submini cameras. I have a few of the IIIs models, B models, C models and LX models.<br>

    The ECX is the round faced 12 GN flash vs the slightly older rectangular flash (called the 8x11 flash) having the same capabilities. However the ECX was designed by VW Design. I don't have any info on the agreement reslulting in a major design studio producing the 'look' for the Minox flash, but there it is.<br>

    My comment concerns the face of the flash. When fixed to a metal Minox 8x11 camera, the script on the round flash face "MINOX ECX-Flash" is oriented upside down! I just wonder what type of research and development actually went into the production of the flash when they couldn't even position the decorative chrome face properly.<br>

    I even looked to see if the circular cover was easily removable and reoriented, but it isn't.<br>

    Comments? BTW, the flash seems to work well and the results have been satisfactory. But it seems all my subjects are twisting their heads in order to read the script on the flash. It makes for some strange pics!!<br>

    :; )<br>

    Steve</p>

  11. <p>I recently received this model and decided to insure it was in good working order. I cleaned all the glass and tried to follow the directions to focus the bulb. Nothing works to get the filiments aligned on top of each other.<br>

    The movement of the bulb left and right and the movement of the rear reflector didn't help. Any ideas? Anyone done this before on a Minox n projector?</p>

  12. <p>I have the Pradovit n and find it a wonderful machine. On the issues so far:<br>

    **I will atttempt to contact Dave Ellwell to see if the parts are still available for the Halogen bulb upgrade. Hopefully they still are. A Leica history book refers to the upgrade as 'Quartz-Iodine lamp' becoming available in '65 for the n model. It required the fitting of an adapter in the lamp socket and an additonal guide plate to the lamp housing. Don't know about these parts as I've never seen them. Leica Collectors Guide, pg 354.<br>

    **I just ordered a spare fan belt as the original is only about 45 or so years old. BION, the replacement was in stock!<br>

    **These units came with remote control focus adjustment. When actuated, a little wheel with a rubber 'O' ring washer turned a control to adjust the lens focus. They would slip or just desintegrate and the focus control would stop, leaving you with manual focus. There was an upgrade where little plastic geared wheels were substituted for the rubber 'O' ring affair. Presto, remote focus works again and continues to work about ten years later. I just had it operating yesterday and it works great. It is a DIY affair if you feel comfortable with this sort of stuff.<br>

    **The 'n' model was fitted with a 12v 100w bayonet bulb. They are no longer available through Bulb Direct or elsewhere unless 'old stock'. Consider getting a spare at this point or the upgrade.<br>

    Steve</p>

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