borrel1

Now, if they would only make a full size Rollei 35S with a 36x24mm chip with the same high quality retractable lens, the manual

speed control (plus "A"), manual aperture control (plus "P"), use the light meter needle window on top for battery level indication and

number of pictures left and a not too big LCD on the back, they might really make another cult camera. If not, I wish they would do a

digital Minox 35, I could even live with an APS-size chip.

- Børre Ludvigsen

I dearly hope they have the sense to stick to the excellent and timeless brushed aluminum Minox design and retain just enough

manual control to make it useable. Where do we order?

- Børre Ludvigsen

Thanks. After having ignored film since 1999, I started bringing out my old cameras early last year (and acquiring some new ones

while prices are low), among them my father's Minox B. The film still in it must have been from the late 80's - twenty years old. And the

results were very much better than I had hoped: <a href="http://abdallah.hiof.no/20070926-minox/">http://abdallah.hiof.no/20070926-

minox/</a> </p>

<p>But a warning to anyone who might want to experiment with 20 year old film; <b>DON'T</b>. You might be able to coax useable pictures out

of a film <b>exposed</b> 20 years ago, but unexposed will have fogged so much from general cosmic radiation that it will be unusable. I

know because I've tried, to my great regret. 2 films from Beirut this summer had barely discernable images and the grain was

awful.</p>

<p>I also suspect that the reason my 20 year old film turned out as well as it did is because it was sitting in the Minox, in a cupboard, in a box

protected by its own, rather hefty metal casing and a bunch of other shielding objects. Had it been in the plastic box, I suspect it would have been as

badly fogged as the film I thoughtlessly imagined would work.</p>

<p>By the way Martin, is it true that you have gone completely digital?</p>

<p>- Børre b(a)hiof.no</p>

<p>Does anyone here have any information on the book "Rückblick: Bilder aus russischer Kriegsgefangenschaft: Erinnerungen und Fotos aus

Jelabuga und anderen sowjetischen Lagern, 1945-1949" by Klaus Sasse? I see it advertized on Amazon as a 298 page paperback with 82

photographs, but elsewhere it is mentioned as containing 179 photographs. Amazon also has one described as "Bilder Aus Russischer

Kriegsgefangenschafte Band 2 Heft 9 by Klaus Sasse". Is this the same book or only part of the first? It's all very confusing as I would like to acquire

the book but need some more specific information.</p>

<ul>

<li> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-

keywords=Klaus+Sasse&x=10&y=23">http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-

keywords=Klaus+Sasse&x=10&y=23</a>

<li> <a href="http://waxmann.com/index2.html?kat/1802.html">http://waxmann.com/index2.html?kat/1802.html</a>

</ul>

<p>Børre Ludvigsen - b(a)hiof.no</p>

<p>Minox 8x11 is not forgotten. I have a Minox B from the 70's, never been serviced and still taking pictures. These

came out of it just a couple of weeks ago: <a

href="http://abdallah.hiof.no/minox/20080811-granbakken/index.html">http://abdallah.hiof.no/minox/20080811-granbakken/index.html</a></p>

<p>- Børre Ludvigsen </p>

These holders will only fit the Mamiya Universal. The Super 23 has a fixed "M" (or sometimes "G") back and will only accept roll film

or 2x3 holders. Hence the "23" name. I have a 545i back for the Universal which I bought from Tony Sansone. It is excellent. There

are some examples of the results using T-55 P/N film here: http://abdallah.hiof.no/20070407_mamiya_test/ I have not tried it with 4x5

quick- or Readyloads, but packfilm like 665 is not bad either: http://abdallah.hiof.no/mamiya-665/ And don't forget that your

Universal can be used to make some amazing image transfers: http://abdallah.hiof.no/image-transfers/

- Børre Ludvigsen

The Mamiya Universal comes with the "M"-adapter as standard. It takes

rollfilm holders, plate holders, ground glass focusing screens,

etc. made for the "M" system. The "secret" of the "M" adapter is that

it can be removed in order to mount two very nice Polaroid film

holders. Not only the ordinary pack film holder, but also a modified

type 545 4"x5" holder for films such as the legendary T-55 P/N. (Only

the 75, 127 and 150mm lenses will cover that format however.) The

"G"-adapter will take all 2x3 Graflok attachments, so if the Horseman

2x3 rollfilm holder is made to the Graflok standard which I suspect it

is, you can use it.

If you only intend to use 120 film and not Polaroid, you might also

want to consider the Super 23 model with has a permanent adapter

attached to bellows which allow the back to tilt and swing. The Super

23 usually comes with an "M"-adapter, but they may also be found with

"G"-adapters. The Super 23 can be focused at infinity only with the

standard 100mm 3.5 lens which is retractable and thus will allow focus

when the back is moved away for the lens. The rest of the lenses will

only focus in closer areas. The Super 23's perspective control seems

to have been made primarily for product advertising photography and

will not accept Polaroid holders as these attach only directly on to

the Univeral body.

The rangefinder will work with all holders except when the Super 23's

back is swung out. Focusing then must be done on a ground glass plate.

For more information see: http://members.cox.net/gmhsint/mamiya.html

I also have some expamples taken with a Universal here:

http://abdallah.hiof.no/mamiya-u/

- Børre Ludvigsen

Before anything else, read the manual. There is one here for the 2.8E : http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rolleiflex_28e/rolleiflex_28e.htm which, exception of the

taking lens, should be identical with yours.

- B�rre Ludvigsen

Does anyone here have any experience scanning 8x11 with an ArtixScan 120tf?

- How do you make your film holding mask?

- How do you keep the film flat?

- How do you set up so that it scans multiple images (with SilverFast)

- B�rre Ludvigsen

Thanks gentlemen, I'm making a thin cardboard insert for use in the medium format film

holder of my ArtixScan 120tf. Will try to remember to post some results.

- Børre

While Polaroid color film does not age well, particularly if it has been exposed to great variations in

temperature, Type 65 and 665 (positive/negative) film and many of the plain black & white films

actually do age reasonably well. Barring of course, that they have been frozen. The chemicals in the

pod don't like it. A good source of expired Polaroid film is usually your local photography shop

which might have some in the back room. A simple Google search for "expired Polaroid film" turned

up this for me: http://www.coldsteel.com/polaroid.html (If you're in the US please DON'T buy from

unsaleable.com. They are our suppliers on this side of the Atlantic and they make a real effort to

provide us with a reasonably steady supply of good film.)

- Børre Ludvigsen

Try this site for transfer (and other) stuff: http://users.frii.com/uliasz/photoart/polaroid/

and this site for a discussion forum: http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a.tcl?

topic=polaroid%20transfers .

- B�rre Ludvigsen

PS My own attempts here: http://abdallah.hiof.no/polaroid/

Any advice on scanning 8x10 Minox negatives in a Microtek Artixscan 120tf with Silverfast? What holder ?

What sort of home made mask insert for 120 or 135 holders? Any advice or experience will be

appreciated.

- B�rre Ludvigsen

I have just repartitioned the disk to make room (10GB) for an installation of OS X Tiger (10.4),

installed first Scanwizard from Microtek and then Silverfast 6.5. Now it all works very well.

Leopard and all my other stuff will go on a partition on the rest of the disk. (At first I also

upgraded 10.4 to the most recent 10.4.11. Silverfast crashed on startup, but that may have

been because Scanwizard - with the drivers was not installed. However, I ould have assumed

Silverfast did not need these.)

- B�rre Ludvigsen

Is anyone using the Microtek Artixscan 120tf with Mac OS X Leopard (10.5.2). I have previously made

successful scan with this scanner using OS X 10.4 on a PowerBook G4, but now the results are awful on

my MacBook Pro. I realize that this may be an Intel Mac / OS X 10.5.2 incompatibility problem, but am

interested to know if anyone in this forum has the 120tf working successfully anyway - or has any

suggestions as to how that may come about. I use Silverfast, reluctantly, simply because it's the only

software I have managed to make work. VueScan drives me nuts when I try to set the crop limits and

ScanWizard doesn't really know what black and white negative film is. The problems I'm getting now are

apparent here: http://abdallah.hiof.no/120tf/120tf-1.jpg and http://abdallah.hiof.no/120tf/120tf-2.jpg

The horizontal striping is obvious.

- Børre Ludvigsen

You're welcome - and enjoy your Mamiya Universal. It's a terrific camera. Very versatile,

especially when you consider that with an adapter Polaroid 545i back you can use 4x5

Quickload or Readyload sheet film after Polaroid's T-55 P/N film is gone. In case of problems

Tony Sansone is the expert who knows these cameras best: http://members.cox.net/gmhsint/mamiya.html.

- Barre Ludvigsen

<p>I have a Microtek Artixscan 120tf which is said to be the same scanner. I use

SilverFast software, but am not particularly happy with it. They also have a version for your

scanner here: <a href="http://tinyurl.com/2xumo9">http://tinyurl.com/2xumo9</a>.

Polaroid's own software is here: <a

href="http://tinyurl.com/2z8d59">http://tinyurl.com/2z8d59</a>. You should also be

able to use Hamrick's VueScan software <a

href="http://www.hamrick.com/">http://www.hamrick.com/</a>. There is a review of

your scanner here: <a

href="http://tinyurl.com/2hfsl4">http://tinyurl.com/2hfsl4</a>.</p>

<br />

<p>- Barre Ludvigsen</p>

<p>See <a href="http://abdallah.hiof.no/mamiya-u/">http://abdallah.hiof.no/mamiya-

u/</a>.</p>

</br>

<p>- B�rre Ludvigsen</p>

Does anyone have a source that might have some expired type 665 positive/negative?

- B�rre Ludvigsen (b at hiof dot no)

<p>Here are some suggestions:</p>

<ul>

<li> <a href="http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/century-graphic.html">Graflex Century Graphic

with optional rangefinder</a>

<li> <a href="http://members.cox.net/gmhsint/camerabodies.html">Mamyia Super 23 (15°

tilt)</a>

<li> Linhof Technica

<li> <a href="http://martyfoto.host.sk/horseman/horsemanVHR1.html">Horseman VHR</a>

<li> Bronica ETRS with Schneider Super Angulon 55mm Pe PCS shift/tilt lens

<li> <a href="http://www.zoerk.com/pages/p_pshift.htm">Z�rk ProSA-ZM (25° ; tilt)</a>

<li> <a href="http://www.hartblei.com/lenses/lens_45mm.htm (8° tilt)">Hartblei 45mm

Super-Rotator Tilt Shift </a>

</ul>

<p>- B�rre Ludvigsen</p>

<p> Here is a discussion of the optics and models you are considering: <a

href="http://www.williamsphotographic.com/ocr/mf/rollei.html">Rollei: The Rolls Royce of TLR</a>

and the MX-EVS is here: <a href="http://foto.no/rolleiflex/Rollei-2-9.html">Rolleiflex MX-EVS 1954

- 56</a>. (More info here: <a href="http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tlr/info/all_TLR.shtml">All

Rollei TLRs</a>)It would appear that the glass in all three camaeras is identical, so you're basically

left choosing between EVS or not. Considering that you will be using a handheld meter whichever

model you choose, the synchronized aperture/speed system (which can locked or unlocked) is an

advantage for quick changing of values especially if your meter also gives you EV readout. I have used

TLRs (AutoCord, RolleiWide, 3.5f and my present 2.8f) with and without built-in meters and having a

built-in lightmeter on a Rolleiflex is definitely useful for quick shooting on the street. To my

knowledge, none of the models you are considering can be modified to take a meter. </p>

<p>Also consider that the 3 cameras you are considering are classified as BGN. Having bought several

BGN items from KEH over the years and mostly been happy, there have been times where such items

have needed repair before use. </p>

<p>If you are looking for entry level MF, you might also want to consider a Bronica ETRS system of

which there are plenty at the price you want. (Just make sure the 75mm is MC.) That would give you a

very handy system camera with the possibility of adding backs, metering prisms, a range of lenses,

etc.. Apart from the rectangular format, it's a poor man's Hasselblad and will give you some

astounding negatives to scan in addition to good film economy. </p>

<p>If you're looking for versatility at the same price, you might also consider the Mamiya Universal. It

is not as bulky and heavy as it looks and the 6x9 negatives get close to large format. You can easily

find a Universal with a 100mm or 127mm lens on eBay at the price you want. You'll still need a good

light meter (get a spotmeter), but the Universal will offer you incredible versatility both in lenses and

backs (6x9, 6x7, 6x6, etc.). With a modified Polaroid 545i back you can use Polaroid 55

positive/negative 4x5" film (or Fuji and Kodak Quickload B&W) covering almost the whole format.

(Only the 75mm and 127mm lenses cover that format.) There is also a Polaroid packfilm back for the

camera. Only the Universal will take Polaroid backs. The Super 23 on the other hand, has a tilting back

for adjustments. Both models will take a series of ground glass viewing backs and extension tubes /

back spacers for close-up work.</p>

<p>Have fun with large negatives!</p>

<p>- Børre Ludvigsen</p>

<p>A little rash perhaps? I also came back to film a little while back, but kept my 5D and

also added an M8 with a CL to share its lenses. Had it not been for the old F2 sitting in

the closet, I would have considered getting a second hand EOS 1V or similar to share the

5D's lenses. Now the 5D does mostly digital reproduction work and excels at it. It also

makes excellent 360? panoramas (<a

href="http://kongeveien.hiof.no/">http://kongeveien.hiof.no/</a>) which were a pain

with film, and it's beginning to experiment with massive multirow panoramas which would

be almost impossible even with MF film.</p>

<p>Before you buy a MF camera consider carefully what you anticipate using it for most.

Experience tells me that the lightest cameras get most use, even when they have fixed

lenses. In my case a Rolleiflex 2.8f which invariably takes preference over a Mamiya

Universal, ETRSi and GX680. The latter is somewhat bigger than the RB and RZ in size and

definately happiest on a tripod. As for large format, get a field camera, not rail, if you

don't want to break your back or need larger than 4x5.</p>

<p>For scanning I use an Epson 4990 for 135 and 120 quick overviews (<a

href="http://abdallah.hiof.no/2007-paris-II/">http://abdallah.hiof.no/2007-paris-

II</a>, leaving selected images to be scanned at best resolution on a Microtek Artixscan

120tf which is excellent but (sound) noisy! The 4990 does excellent scans of my 4"x5"

negatives from the Universal (<a

href="http://abdallah.hiof.no/20070407_mamiya_test/">http://abdallah.hiof.no/200704

07_mamiya_test/</a>) and an old Linhof Bi-Kardan.</p>

<p>- Børre Ludvigsen</p>

Try Tony Sansone <gmhsint@cox.net> (850-863-2972). He the expert and is bound to have

the part.

- B�rre Ludvigsen

For heaven's sake don't! You will regret it the rest of your life! 7 years ago I sold the greater part of my F2 stuff - some great lenses, an F2 and a Nikkormat EL workhorse to finance the first D30 with basic glass. (Luckily I kept my 35S, 35GL, XA and some other stuff at the bottom of a cardboard box.) I had previously owned various MF cameras that were sold because they spent too much time on the shelf. Digital revived my photography interest and I now have a 5D, an M8 and an iXus which is also used under water occasionally, all of which are greatly enjoyed. Then, after lightning struck the house a couple of years back and broke just about every piece of electronics, my old scanner was replaced by one that happened to have a 35mm film strip door in the lid. I brought out an old film, threaded it in, and lo and behold, out came the most wonderful digital negatives that printed marvelously on a modern ink jet printer! The XA was brought out, a roll of Plus-X bought at the local photo store along with a bottle of Rodinal and some fix. I threaded the film into a tank dug out of the attic under the bedcovers in the evening and lo and behold again! The magic of home brew chemistry was reawakened! The solution turned out to be the Internet. There are lots of great web shops that sell the whole range of film in both B&W and color. (I find that digital handles color best. No lab, no mess and while it will still take many years for me to afford an LCD projector to show better pictures than my Rollei 6x6 slide projector, I will stay away from MF positive film at least for now.) Loading tanks in a large daylight bag from Adorama and developing over the kitchen sink works fine. Film cameras are veritable bargains these days and the Internet (KEH, eBay, etc.) offers the most wonderful stuff that we could only dream about 10 years ago. A replacement DP-1 prism for my remaining F2 was bought for change the other day. I now have the Rolleiflex 3003 I always dreamt of. Ever tried a Mamiya Unversal? It does 6x9, Polaroid pack AND the incredible Polaroid 4x5 positive/negative. The Rolleiflex 2.8f is the greatest traveling 6x6 ground glass screen camera (and piece of engineering rivaled only by your 330 and its interchangeable lenses). For anyone looking to go into medium format, there can't be much that beats the Bronica ETRS line for value. A Leica CL shares the excellent CV lenses with the M8 and the other day my old Linhof 5x7 came back from years of good service and abuse by my son who used it to build his photo business. It takes 4x5, Polaroid 55P/N and a 120 back and when a Nikor 4x5 daylight tank from 1949 turned up on eBay WITH the retaining belt large format has become fun too. I find no lack of film on the market. With the US and European websites you have the whole gamut to choose from. There are even producers of liquid emulsions for glass plates. OK, so I haven't found any 5x7 yet and Polaroid 665 is gone, but Polaroid Europe makes SX-70 Blend for my old SX-70 which a great MF SLR. By the way, that scanner with the film strip holder was quickly replaced by an Epson 4990 for large format negatives and quick proofs. A Microtek 120tf does the 35mm and 120 high res scans. Now, my 5D only does special stuff like digitizing books and 360? panoramas and the M8 is the workhorse for general stuff and film is all the fun. Photography is GREAT fun again because the magic of film is out of the messy, smelly darkroom and pictures, both digital and paper are quicker and cheaper to make - all thanks to computers and the net. I see the price of quality film cameras and lenses rising again and film is becoming easier to get as long as you're willing to partake in the magic of seeing light caught in the emulsion at home! Get yourself a daylight loading bag, a daylight developing tank (plastic reels to start with), a thermometer, some chemistry and take over the developing yourself. The quality will be better and you'll be able to take full advantage of the magic of film. Get a good printer and you'll be amazed at the results.

- B�rre Ludvigsen

Yes, Tony Sansone replied to an email only a couple of weeks back. The Polaroids were taken

with a 545i back adapted for the Universal which he sent me late late last year. It's a pity that

he hasn't cpmpleted his site seeing as it's the only source of any reliable information on these

cameras on the net. With respect to using these cameras for anything larger than 6x9cm you

should be aware that there are only 3 lenses that are useful. The 75 and 127mm's will just

about cover the cropped 4x5 Polaroid format. (The MU body itself crops a narrow strip at the

top and bottom as you see from the samples.) The 100mm covers the Polaroid pack film

format, the rest being for 120 film.- Børre