jerry_lehrer1

<p>I just discovered this Minox Forum by accident. (I am primarily a Leica and Nikon user) Years ago I was deep into Minox. Black B camera, black flash, tripod , clamp, binocular adapter, enlarger and so on. I sold most of the stuff, but realize that I have some bits and pieces left over. Not worth using eBay and I cannot advertise them here (Photo.net policy)<br>

Thanks,<br>

Jerry Lehrer</p>

<p>Ms DEDEREN: Yes but those early IIfs did not have a marking for 1/1000 second on the shutter speed dials.</p>

<p>Obviously a factory converted IIf, BUT the factory must have run out of IIf shutter speed dials. The last IIf that I saw had no speed markings for 30-1. The original Ic dial would not have looked right with the flash setting dial below it.</p>

<p>'Bladers.... This is why I always carry a short roll of 3/4" wide black tape in my H'blad bag to cover the dark slide slot on the magazine when the slide is removed. </p>

<p>BTW, what thickness of foam pad should be used?</p>

 

<p>Jim... I don't think I have ever seen or read about any black Photomic meter/prism for the Nikon F.</p>

<p>Ray..... There was a threaded metal cap that incorporated a battery switch which was made by a genius Vermont machinist who also made some magnificent and useful accessories for the Leica.<br>

He also made a quick release plate for the bottom of M Leicas which was better than the RRS. As well as a focus tab for some models of the Summilux.<br>

I believe he was also involved with the design of the IKODOT variable field viewfinder for Leicas.<br>

Unfortunately his machine shop, which was located in a barn, burned down some years ago. If I recall correctly, his last name was Welker.</p>

<p>Hmmm? All my metered M Leicas have a threaded METAL battery cap, not plastic!!</p>

<p>Peter...... No, not only one back. I have a few in two sizes. When I switch backs, I do put the dark slide in. (Have to--the backs do not come off without the dark slide in--Fail Safe!)</p>

<p>BTW-- What is a CMC Nikon?</p>

<p>I habitually leave the dark slide out of my H'blad, BUT I always cover the slot with a short length<br>

of black gaffers tape. I seldom trust the light seals after all these years.</p>

<p>Nah! It just takes an amount of carelessness to cause problems with the Rolleifix. It also makes the BEST attachment for a flash unit and/or a pistol grip.<br>

The Rolleifix is the most essential accessory for the Rolleiflex (along with a lenshood)</p>

<p>I have found that the best strap for that model Rollei involves a 3/8'' wide black nylon web strap as<br>

in the Op/Tech system. Loop it thru the slot. </p>

<p>Other than on an M Leica, I believe that it is an exercise in futility to use a repaired clip on meter on SM Leica. There are so many good, inexpensive hand-held meters on the market now.<br>

Gossen and Sekonic are good ones. Frankly, I still use a Weston Ranger 9. Built like a tank! No plastic to crack.</p>

 

<p>Mukul,</p>

<p>Those half cases are NOT switchable.. If switched, the brown case would cover the self timer on the M2.</p>

<p>All my lenses are type C, Some are chrome, some are black. ALL are T*. All are and have been working perfectly. No problems ever. The lesser used ones do get their shutters exercised regularly.<br>

The chrome lenses aren't really chrome. They are anodised aluminium.</p>

<p>I just found ou that my Nikkor 35mm f1.4 lens does not stop down any more. The little lever in the back of the lens does not cause the diaphragm to close.<br>

Is there anything I can do short of bringing it to the local repair shop? Any suggestions?</p>

<p>Mukul, I recommend against duct taping the back caps together. Epoxy is much safer.</p>

<p>I also add a 6mm screw, 2 washers and a nut. (Assuming that no parts of the back glass of the lens contacts the screw)</p>

<p>Yes, I had a Wryflex about 60 years ago. It produced negatives that were about 24x32mm instead of the standard 24x36mm. (Same as early Nikon RF cameras)<br>

I would always get returned Kodachromes in an uncut roll with a nasty note.<br>

I gave that POS away.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>John,<br>

People buy Bessas because they are cheaper, not less expensive; cheaper. At the price you have available, you can get a very nice M6. The 40mm lens with the 35mm frame line is superb.</p>

<p>Very few people have ever regretted buying a Leica.</p>

<p>Jerry</p>

 

<p>ED,</p>

<p>Whatever flash you get, be sure to get a H'Blad Flashgun Bracket I (#45071) which makes the combo of camera and flash a pleasure to use.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>Back in the late '40s, my cousin Sam manufactured a device called Adaptoback to use 828 size (Bantam) roll film in the Medalist 1 and 2. It did NOT require modification to the camera back. Just adapters to hold the 828 spools, a mask for the focal plane, a mask for the viewfinder and a pointer and index similar to the pointer in your photo.</p>

<p>As I remember, I found that there was no real advantage in 828 film over the 620 that it normally used. 8 exposures for both sizes.</p>

<p>A 35mm conversion was tried, but the film chambers were not deep enough for a 35mm cartridge.</p>

<p>Jerry Lehrer</p>

<p>Ray,</p>

<p>There is no question in my mind on tripods. I have been in photography since the mid century and have tried most of them. I have standardized on the Leitz- Marchioni Tiltall. I use a H'blad 500C/M<br>

with the H'blad quick release. I also use a Nikon which I have adapted to be able to use the H'blad quick release plate</p>

<p>The price of a RRS tripod,ball head and camera holders would exceed the price I paid for the H'blad and Nikon outfits</p>

<p>David,</p>

<p>At the risk of giving you "duff gen" I won't give you suggestions unless you tell us what model Hasselblad you have.<br>

Some models can have the screen changed easily, some require an expert technician with the proper tools.<br>

Your response would be appreciated.<br>

Jerry Lehrer</p>

 

<p>Film Musician,</p>

<p>In the Army, we learned the expression "I E F, RTFM" If everything fails, read the _____ manual!</p>

<p>Frankly, I feel that an older ELM is not the best H'blad for a tyro to start with. But then again, what do I know. I have only used H'blads for 30 years.</p>

<p>Jerry</p>

<p>Nick,</p>

<p>I would suggest that you send it to one of the great Leica service peopls such as DAG, Kinderman or even a Minolta service center.-- After all the camera IS a Minolta.</p>

<p>WTF makes you think that the camera is autofocus?</p>

<p>Jerry</p>

<p>Those NICCA made Tower cameras were all wonderful well made instruments.</p>

<p>Jerry Lehrer</p>

<p>DAG or Sherry Krauter. Do not consider Leica Service Center unless you are prepared for a looong<br>

wait and a looonger bill.</p>

<p>DAG has done a perfect job on a few of my Leica CLs with the 40mm Summicron. Sherry Krauter is known to be THE authority on Leica CL.</p>