jephotog

Ott,

thank you so much, that was it. I have only had the flash a while and have used it only as a remote and have only gone into custom function once to change one thing. I guess I changed 2 things. It seems to be working fine now.

Thanks for your help

Jordan

Thanks for your help. I found the manual last night. I am pretty sure it or the camera is broken. Nothing I do can get the flash to work on anything other than manual. It is only a few months old so I will send it back when I get home.

I can not find E-TTL mode, is there a specific camera setting I need to get to it? I guess i need to find the manual online.

I am shooting a 10D with a 580 ex and the flash will not go off in the TTL mode.

I have only used the flash a few months and use it manually mostly up till now,

but am in a situation where I want to work with the TTL functions.

 

The flash does not even go off when set in the TTL mode but does so in manual

mode. It does send out an autofocus assist beam though, so I know it is

communicating. What should I try?

 

Thanks

PS i am on vacation and do not have my manuals with me.

I don't have lightroom open now and have not played with it for a few days, but off the top of my head, not sure if these could be done in develop or would have to toggle to library for some of this functionality:

 

Take a snapshot of the image you have worked on for a while. There will already be one of the shot when you opened it. You can then click on each snapshot and compare them. You could even make a copy of one of the images then use the comparison mode to get a side by side comparison of before and after.

Given the same budget and plan this is what I am doing.

 

Samsung 226BW $320

Eye-one Display 2 Calibrator $200

Epson R1800(refurbished) $300 $500 for a refurb 2400

Thanks for all your help. I just ordered the eye-one display 2, and will be picking up my monitor this weekend.

"Eye-one-display 2. Tehre are no compatibility wit hNikon files --that's a user error. Maybe he is expecting his display to match the LCD on his camera? (if so, even G-d can't help him)."

 

I went back and read the comment and the problem he had was with Nikon Capture not his Nikon.

 

That would be neat if I could get the display calibrated on my camera, so I could print right from it. It would save me a few hundred dollars from having to buy my new LCD monitor.;)

I know this has been covered before but the last article i could find was dated

a month ago and someone highly recommended the DTP94 which is now discontinued.

Now that I have finally chosen my monitor, the Samsung 226BW and will pick it

up from Circuit City this weekend, I have to figure out how to calibrate it

without going broke.

 

So I guess I am looking at the Eye-one-display 2 or the spider-2. The hard part

is every third comment is either praising, denouncing or saying the product is

just okay. One comment says the Eye-one does not work well with his Nikon. Are

there possible compatibility issues with each of these systems and other components?

 

I am shooting a Canon D10 and looking to upgrade to the D30

Monitor will be a Samsung 226BW

and eventually printing on an Epson R1800.

 

Does anyone have luck with any of the products in my proposed setup and either

of the two calibration devices? I see the Eye-one comes with software for under

$200 then has a bundled set up that starts at over $800, which is way over my

budget. Will the included software do an okay job or what are my options?

 

Thanks

Thanks Patrick,

It was your many accolades of this monitor that turned me on to it in the first place. Doing my research came up with a lot of comments on the bleed issue. I will not be using the monitor for my XBOX 360 like most of the reviewers though.

 

It seems like a good way to go budget to get me into a color calibrated world. Once I buy the calibration hardware that is. So you think as a primary monitor it would do okay. Not that one is in my budget but how do you compare it to your ACD?

I am looking at two different monitors. The 2 I have narrowed it down to are

the Samsung 226BW and the LG L226WT. Both have received good reviews but people

comment on Black light bleeding being a problem. It seeks to be a problem when

stepping up from a 20" to a 22" in this price category. It seems like 22" WS

would be nice for Lightroom unless I could afford even bigger.

 

How does black light bleed affect photography? Would I be better off for color

accuracy sticking with a 20" model?

 

Thanks

Jordan

To get anything high speed on your laptop, first you have to have a source of the internet.

 

You can get

 

1.DSL high speed but slower

2. Cable different speeds available most faster than DSL

3. Verizon, Cingular or Sprint Wireless ethernet cards.

 

This last one will get you internet anywhere there is a network provided by the carrier, but I do not believe the poster that said $50 for unlimited usage is incorrect. I think $50 is a minimum, if you spend a lot of time online you could spend $100s.

 

If you choose the last one you are set, nothing else to buy. If you go with one of the first 2 you will need a modem, possibly included in the service, or you have to buy one. If you have an ethernet card in your laptop, it will look like a wide phone jack receptacle somewhere on you computer, you can plug directly into the modem. You will be getting broadband at that point, but not wireless. You could also get an ethernet PCMI card,and skip the wireless thing. To get wireless you will have to buy a wireless router, 'G' or 'N' or the recommended ones now, as well as a WIFI card for your laptop.

 

Once you have all this you are set to surf at high speeds at home. On the road there is WIFI everywhere. Most coffee shops, hotels and even truck stops have it for free. In WA state they have it free at rest stops. Airports, Borders, Barnes and Noble, Starbucks, have a way you can sign on for $5-10/day or $40/mo. to access WIFI.

 

My suggestions get cable high speed at home with a G or N router a wireless card and look for coffee shops on the road and check with hotels about WIFI when making reservations. I myself don't have wireless at home, I rely on hotels while traveling which is often and coffee shops while home.

How about if I have a Raptor Hard Drive. It runs at 10,000 RPM, would it be a good candidate for a scratch disk? And what about running it with a partition, one side for the system and the other for the Scratch. Why is this not recommended?

 

What would be a more efficient use of this disk, as a scratch or as a systems disk?

I thought the digital darkroom forum was dedicated to lightroom, what there are other subjects here?

 

Which book do you have? There are also at least 3 different tutorials available online. Most free but Luminous Lanscapes cost around $15 but worth it IMO.

 

The adobe forum http://www.adobeforums.com/cgi-bin/webx/.3bc2cf0a/?@90.BQpfg3Ppaxw@

is very comprehensive and there is also a place for feature requests if you find something that needs fixing in future versions.

This is great news, I have been wanting to upgrade my printer and for $299, I am going to get the 1800.

 

So if I want to get busy with it, what else do I need? I have a USB cord already but want to make sure I have all the supplies to get printing when it gets here. I see Ilford Pearl recommended, what else do I need to get started? Does the printer come with full ink cartridges or should I order some more?

 

Thanks

If you are using a tripod and have CS2 bracket the photo, then refine them to get the best tonal range and colors from each end of the spectrum, then use merge to HDR from the PS Browser, under photoshop functions or it can be done in Photoshop.

 

I just discoved this feature and played with it this weekend. There are also Lightroom presets that will produce two or three different versions of the same photo from Raw to be merged with "merge to HDR".

Let me clarify, this, I do not own the ST-E2, I was just asking because I'd like to own one someday but it is not in the budget now, I was wondering what its potential is? I don't think for my current application I would benefit from the ST-E2, so I use a cheap ebay FM transmitter.

 

Experimenting will answer some of my questions, but one. Does leaving the flash on full time damage the flash, or just wear down the batteries. I guess experimenting with it will tell me if it hurts the flash or not but its a $300 and something experiment I can't afford to make. I have plenty of rechargeable batteries, but not plenty of working flash units.

 

I have just tested the Cust. function #14 and it seems to disable the sleep mode.<div></div>

I have been using my 580EX with a cheap FM slave where the cameras is pre-set in

a vehicle and I snap photos as they appear in the window. Because the flash

goes to sleep I miss some shots. How can I prevent this?

 

I have to reach around the flash which is in an inconvenient spot to reset the

"pilot" button. Is this sleep mode considered the auto power off function?

If I disable the auto power off function Custom Function #14 will this prevent

the camera from sleeping?

 

Are there any reprecussions to the flash from this or just battery life? Would

an ST-E2 be able to wake up my flash from afar?

I have come up with a great lighting setup finally. I am using the promax above with the gold bounce insert for main lighting, and used an old EOS 540EZ at 1/32 power with a softbox set lower and closer to fill in the shadows. I had tried this other softbox the other day as a main fill light with a red filter, but the shot came out very red. I then tried to put just a small portion of gel in there hoping it would bounce and spread the little bit of warmth around but it ended up with one side of the lighted area with a red tint.

 

So any suggestions on which gel can match the warmth of light coming of a gold reflector? Would an omnibounce 2-3 feet away from a subject diffract enough as to not cause hot spots? Should I point the omnibounce up or at the subject? I have velcro on my flash for other accessories, will this get in the way of installing the omnibounce?

 

Thanks

Jordan

I have been trying to figure out what to do with Lightroom and two computers vying for the attention of one database. I believe at this point is not possible. I am on my laptop during the day and main computer at night. So this is a very important issue for me.

 

In searching what I have found is Lightroom will not work on a server so you can't put a database on a server and access it with two computers.

 

There used to be a way to combine the databases in a former beta but it had issues so it was done away with V1.

 

There is a number of ways people are getting to work with two computers but it is not an optimum setup. I am assuming Adobe is working on it.

 

I have been reading the Lightroom forum at adobe.com to learn more work arounds there. I also found an article on how to work with two computer and one Lightroom at http://blog.duncandavidson.com/.

I am working in a very small area and need to alter the light from my 580ex to

fill the frame to match a 10 mm lens on a Canon 10d (16mm equiv.).

 

I had used the Lumiquest Pro-max system and liked the ability to change the

inserts in to affect the color of light. But the setup is too tall for the

space I am working in and causes shadows from its height.

 

Which other light accessories might I try to fill this need? Is there a way to

warm the light from this accessory without fire danger?

Thanks

Jordan

I have a EOS 28-135is that jammed today. I attached it and zoomed in on

something and took a photo. When I looked down the lens was at 70mm, I zoomed

out and in and it never got past 70mm but would click at 50mm. After a few

zooms it got stuck between 50 and 70mm.

 

Is there any decent repair shop in Salt Lake City? If now where should I send it?

Thanks

Jordan

I was having trouble with my laptop slowing down, so I went about "cleaning it

up". In the process I did one small change in regedit, and my system is now

toast. So with a new larger HD 120GB I am starting over. I plan on creating

a disk image as a backup for future occurences like this, but am looking to

also create a better computer at the same time.

 

Because of the nature of my job I spend a lot of time on the road, so my

laptop is my source of entertainment as well as one of my photo tools. In the

process of playing, surfing and downloading, my system gets cluttered and

slows down. I was thinking of creating 2 systems on the same computer one for

work and one for play. I would like to run XP Pro on both.

 

So my questions are:

 

Is this possible, or a good idea?

 

Could I run Photoshop and LR on both sides of the computer and access the same

database? Sometimes I would need Photoshop and the web at the same time, but

don't trust myself to have the internet access on the fast-system side.

 

On my current computers I have created partitions my hard drives and put most

of my data on the part that does not have the system on it, at least all my

music, photos and such. Is there a way to have all peronal data go to a HD or

partition that is other than the system HD? Is it possible to have My

documents and Desktop on a HD other than the system one, without redirecting

the "save as" each time?

 

I have found this article on multi-sytem machines

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/expert/russel_september10.mspx

and will research it better at home. Anyone have any other links or

suggestions?

Thanks

Jordan

Thanks Troy,

I believe when exporting Lightroom attaches the implied key words as though they are the originals. However within Lightroom, I have tried to search using words that I have included in implied keywords and it does not find anything. If these words are important enough to export, shouldn't lightroom be including them in a search? I would hope Lightroom could accommodate this, as it does not make sense to have to export the files to do an adequate search.

I am scheming of ways to cover everything in a parent child tree but it starts to get very complicated, when I think of all the combinations of information I would like to track.

I have just purchased Lightroom and it is my first DAM software and I have a lot

to learn in terms of organizing all my work. I have read the DAM book and am

having trouble relating it to the flow with Lightroom.

 

One of the issues I am having is getting a system for keywording down. What I

do is similar to shooting stock images so a organized database and keywording is

very important. I am looking for shortcuts to having to list every possible

keyword for each shot. I have been adding some of the details for my subjects

under "implied key words", but this does not come up during a search.

 

Here is an example of what I am trying to do. I fly a cargo aircraft for a

living and I therefore have a lot of photos of my aircraft and other aircraft.

My aircraft is a Be99, under the implied keywords, I have: cargo, Beech,

Beechcraft, turbine, turboprop. I would like to be able to enter Be99 and have

all these words be included in the keywords. Are there any shortcuts or ways to

group keywords together to help speed this up?

 

Thanks

Jordan