jephotog

<p>I am trying to use my EOS 7D with my speedotron light system which have been in strorage since back in the film camera days.</p>

<p>Can I use the PC socket on the camera with a cord to the power box or do I have to be worried about voltage? What are the concerns with older flash equipment with newer cameras? I also have a hot shoe adapter to cord option. Is there an inexpensive wireless trigger I should consider?</p>

<p>Thanks for the info. I was thinking the Yongnuo 565ex already.</p>

<p>I have a bag full of older flashes including a 285 and now remembered 540EZ. I will use the 540 for a basic flash with a slave and use the 580EX to round out my new Yognuo.</p>

<p>I have a relatively new to me Canon 7D and my older 580ex. I would like to get another flash to work with this setup preferably a cheap knock off to work with the sophisticated computer potential of the EOS 7d.<br>

<br />I have used two flashes in the past with slaves but want to take advantage of two flashes using my 430ez and a Vivitar 285. What is my best option nowadays for a second flash</p>

<p>I am very happy to hear MS got it right with Windows 8. Just a little disappointed my new desktop is stuck in W7Pro, which turns out to be inferior to 8. This computer is so fast, but now I will be wondering if I had W8 how much faster it may be.<br /> Looking forward to a new laptop. Anyone with an opinion on the Yoga 2? Any happy Ultrabook owners wanting to recommend a model for a road warrior?</p>

I am in need of a new laptop. I know a macbook pro would be a good choice they meet all the parameters i am looking for but feel a

need to keep it on the PC family to go with my desktop. After Vista I am Leary of new Windows platforms, unfortunate W7 is becoming

impossible to find on new computers.

 

Things I want in a new computer.

Light and compact

6+ hours of battery

High res wide gamut screen

8mb ram

Ssd HD

 

I would appreciate any feedback from W8 users on their experience with LR and Photoshop. The one computer I am now looking at is

the Lenovo Yoga2, anyone use this for photography? I don't plan on using it as a tablet much I just really like it's looks and specs. I

wish it was ruining W7 pro.

 

http://www.engadget.com/products/lenovo/yoga/2-pro/?

Here is some more info.

 

I shoot with a Canon 7D, and do some HDR and pano stitching, so can potentially be working with some huge files,

I am building a pc for photo editing, after years of just using my laptop. I am thinking of starting off with 16 G of ram. But wondering if I

might want more down the road. If so I would star out with 2 sticks of 8 instead of 4x4.

<p>I am able to get the Chinese Balls off of Amazon. I think it would be pretty easy to hide the 8 inch ones. Not sure about the bigger ones though. Would using the bigger ones act as a larger more diffused light source? I am really excited to try these. It's like a perfect softbox for a plane.</p>

<p>Here is a shot from last month on short final.</p><div></div>

<p>This is not a client. I work for this company flying a smaller plane, although I would like to fly this plane some day. I was shooting this on my own in order to develop the techniques for shooting plane interiors. Since I am relatively new and this was unscheduled asking the maintenance crew to power it up and turn on the lights or drag it outside was not an option. I will be able to get some opportunities at other times to photograph this in better conditions, but inconveniencing the mechanics won't make me any friends, inconveniencing the owners would probably get me fired. <br>

I would like to perfect my techniques for aircraft and yachts, which includes all 3 of my passions, photography, sailing and flying. If I can get some photos in my free time I can develop a portfolio and hope to be able to get some photography work on the side on days I am not flying.<br>

I have done a lot of shooting from inside the cockpit and have learned to bounce my flashes to balance in and out of the cockpit. I just need to work on the rest of the cabin. I do have an upcoming assignment working with some sailboats where I can practice some of the techniques discussed here, which will apply well to aircraft. The hard part of the aircraft is there are usually not very good places to clamp or hide lighting equipment or even room for them. A tota brella would never fit, the Chinese Balls will be great though, got some on order.</p>

<p>Here is a photo of a cockpit I took that day, and an inflight shot from last month.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Thanks for the continued suggestions Ralph. I do not plan to do this again without having the plane outside the logistics are too difficult without it and the results would not be as good. Eventually I hope to be able to get an opportunity to try and shoot this right.<br>

Here is how I have made the shots from or in the cockpit work. Canon 7D with an on or off camera 580ex flash using either a Fong or a Lumiquest 80-20 to bounce and diffuse the light. I also have a speedotron system. Canon 550 ez and Sunpak 522 with optics slaves. I also have a bunch of clamps and portable studio stuff. But I am interested in other tricks, slaves and modifiers that might work in this situation. I will look at the totalbrella and some of the other things you suggested.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

For the idea guys. I have done a lot of work in the cockpit photography and balancing the outside light. This is the worst example of the photos taken to demonstrate the challenge of this shooting. I was not there to shoot the cabin just an engine taken apart, this is was just a trial run to see what it would take. It was the first time I had been in an aircraft of this size. When I started asking this question and analyzing the picture I realized as Matt said there is no way to do it right in that situation.<br>

Some more details this is a Gulfstream IV and this is only half the cabin's length. The windows are also about 15 feet off the ground and there are 6 per side, I would need a set of very tall stands to light them up and more strobe heads, so this option is out for now.<br>

I already have the assignment to shoot the yachts. Which are mostly 30-40' sailboats. When I was planning on doing the upcoming yacht shots I was looking at some examples and saw the ones done right and the ones not. I have already bought a shower curtain liner to tape over the windows as I can see how the hot lit windows ruined many of the shots, but did not think of it in the airplane until now.<br>

For the boats I plan to shoot the exteriors during sunset and sunrise then tape over the windows to shoot the interiors. My plan for the boats is to use a tripod to use a long exposure to use the natural light to paint the interior with warm gelled flashes to fill out the lights and give it some warmth. The same plan I will try to use on the plane the next chance I get. </p>

<p>Here is a photo I have taken using natural light and a bounced flash in a planes cabin, that I would have to expand upon to work with the larger aircraft.</p>

<div></div>

<p>I was called in to take some pictures at work and while there I got into a big plane to take some photos. I am pretty disappointed with my results. These were just for fun to see how to do it right later. I am interested in shooting large aircaft and yacht interiors. I can do good work in the cockpit but this is junk.<br>

I only had my Canon 7D and my 580ex to work with this day. I was hoping to something better but now realize lighting up a darkened plane with only one flash will not look good.<br>

So given another opportunity to do this, I would open up all windows, turn on the system lights and then use an exposure based on this lighting and try to fill in and supplement with flash lighting. </p>

<p>I also have some large strobes and modifiers but don't see how they would help in the confined space of the cabin. Besides my 580ex I have 2 manual flashes with optical slaves and limited modifiers. Any suggestions on howto go about lighting an area like this?<img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm205/Photobug_08/IMG_8451.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="667" /></p>

<p>I don't remember my T90 being cheap back in the day, neither was my A2E. I paid $1400 for my new 10D. Whether they are/were film or digital new cutting edge high end cameras are expensive.</p>

<p>Their prices drop as soon as they leave the showroom and drop even more depending on how many models old they are. I have usually waited till the model I want has been replaced by the newer model and get it for 20-30% off what I would have paid the year before.</p>

<p>Okay got a 7D this morning. Wow what feeling compared to my 30D. I had no time to read the manual before spending 6 hours on a sailboat, without having time to read the manual. I will read the manual tonight before sailing again.</p>

<p>I am looking at other sources to learn the camera. I have a subscription to Lynda.com. They have tutorials for the 5DIII and 60D. Which of these have more features in common with the 7D? What other sources are there to learn the features and tricks for the 7D?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for the responses and advice. A few years ago I upgraded from my 10D to a 30D, so you can see i hang on to my equip a long time. The autofocus started acting up, a while back, imagine shooting an airshow while hand focusing. I now have a little money burning a hole in my pocket and was budgeting around $900 for a low click 7D. However a refurbed from Canon is $1019, so unless a really good package deal comes along this is probably what I'll end up with.</p>

<p>One ad I looked at mentioned a new circuit board to solve the battery issue, but was not sure what it meant. Up till now I assumed I would be able to use the stacks of old school eos batteries but now I know I will need to stock up on new expensive ones, but I am looking forward to having a newer camera with some of the cool new features.</p>

I am considering buying a used 7D.

 

What should I look for when considering buying used? I was considering under 10k activations. What is the issue with the battery? Is

there a way to check for this issue? Does Canon warranty issues with an older camera?

<p>Thanks for the info, <br>

I had a free trial of Lynda when I first got the CS package and liked it a bunch. I also bough the Luminous landscape tutorial when I first got LR. It was okay but not worth over $40 in my opinion. I will sign up for Lynda again.</p>

<p>I am stepping up from LR 2.7 to 4.</p>

<p>One thing i see different is snapshots. I believe there was an automatic snapshot of "imported" previously. Now when I alter the photo and take a snapshot I only have the one snapshot of the altered image. Is there an easy way to get back to the imported image, or a way to set it up so a snapshot is made of the original image?</p>

<p>After using LR 1 and 2, I skipped 3. With my recent upgrade to 4 I am stuck with two version old know how. I want to step up my skills with Adobe products, I have the CS4 suite as well as LR. I am looking to sign up for a month or so to learn the new features and expand my working skills with the CS4.<br>

Who has a better library of tutorials for LR and other Adobe products?</p>

<p>I don't consider operating systems as software. Do you?</p>

<p>I do and so does Microsoft. I wish they gave away W7 as i would be $139 richer or at least $139 less poor.</p>

<p>From what I have read about Ccleaner it is not a good idea to let it clean your registry, as it might remove something you need and mess up your system. At least make sure it creates a restore point before running.</p>

<p>I don't consider operating systems as software. Do you?</p>

<p>I do and so does Microsoft. I wish they gave away W7 as i would be $139 richer or at least $139 less poor.</p>

<p>From what I have read about Ccleaner it is not a good idea to let it clean your registry, as it might remove something you need and mess up your system. At least make sure it creates a restore point before running.</p>

<p>Yep so far I am loving what W7 is doing for my computers speed and stability. Ccleaner is a standard for me back since XP days. I have yet to download it for 7 though as one of the experts in the computer forums says it can screw up things in random ways. Also I do not think it cleans your registry, just all the other random clutter that accumulates in storage, I will probably be downloading it though as I do like the clean sweep it gives. Lots of free software comes with junk and overhead, but I have not found this with Ccleaner though.</p>

<p>Thanks Don, I do some searching on my computer as often as not what I am looking for is not indexed so I have to do the full search anyways.</p>

<p>Indexing is going off.</p>

<p>I have just upgraded my laptop in a few ways, the primary being to Windows 7 Pro X64. I also upped my Ram to 4GB the max it will take and a new 500GB HD. I have been doing some research and configuration changes to get the most from it and have found it (besides the bugs I have been working out) fast and stable. I have been on computer specific sites looking for advice but figure the people on this forum are using their computers for the same purpose as me and would have the best ideas.</p>

<p>What I have done so far is to partition the disk with 80GB for the HD and the rest for storage. I am using ultimate defrag for keeping my HD clean and well organized and backing up my system with windows 7 to create a System Image to my Storage partition and a external HD.</p>

<p>So am I missing anything? What else can I do to maximize my new setup? One suggestion I got was to use Ready Boost. Does anyone find this a help in running Adobe Products?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have recently run into a problem with photos in my Adobe programs looking super saturated. The first time I discovered it was when I opened some long lost photos that I had taken before I was shooting raw. The colors were so saturated as to look posterized. I was afraid I had tweaked the photo so bad as to have ruined a unique once in a lifetime self portrait I had. Turns out everything I open up in Adobe LR or PS looks that way untill I dial down the vibrance to less than -20.<br>

I have an eye one display 2 and it looks great when I calibrate and it shows the before and after in the calibration software. I am not sure how to check to see if other progams are as saturated or not. I am not sure if it something in an Adobe setting or calibration of the monitor. What should I try to track this problem down?</p>