jimh

How about <a href="http://www01.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___29115___KOTMDPDKQ___REG___CatID=0___SID=EEBDA4AEBE0">Kodak T-Max 100 Direct Positive Developing Kit</a>?

Can you see the text by the edges?

Try <a href="http://www.photo.net/search/search?search_type=rest&sections=static_pages&sections=bboard&sections=comments&query_string=hyperfocal&x=11&y=5">this</a>.

You should not scan the print but the neg. Scanning an 8x10 print and enlarging to 20x24 will give very bad results no matter how good your scanner is.

 

Scanning a 4x5 negative at 1600 dpi (the real resolution of the 1640su, not 3200 dpi) on the other hand should give you a very good 20x24 print.

<i>Maybe they'll just make you spend more for a N80 as a backup or something.</i>

<p>Yeah, and then carry the FM3A as backup-for-the-backup for the manual lenses the N80 can't handle.

Contact cement sounds fine. Just be careful when removing the "leather" since it can be quite hard after so many years.

Push out the pin in the crank. Remove the crank. Unscrew the nut on the crank shaft. Remove the "leather" on the crank side. Unscrew all the found screws. Now you're inside the camera. If I remember correctly that is.

 

Many of the old Yashicamats are stuck because of a broken cogwheel, so it might take more than just a clean up.

Try <a href="http://www.hasselblad.se/company/addresses.asp?secId=537&category=Service">this</a>.

I've seen an SLR seagull advertized in photo magazines from the eighties. Could it be one of those? I think it had a non interchangeable 80 mm lens.

Are you sure it has a felt seal? I bought Hasselblad seals for my Kiev backs and they were made of thin metal. Anyway, I'd just stock up with spare seals and change them now and then. The cost (at least here in Sweden) is just about $2 each and they are very simple to replace with a screwdriver and five minutes work.

It's not a lever, rather a knob (at least on my pre-auto 'cord). You pull it out about 4 mm and then open the back.

Translation from the web page in question: <i>Hasselblad's new premises on the Northern side of the river.</i> Sure looks like a cool house to me.

How about buying a complete, perhaps broken, Kiev 88 kit with two backs? Then you could cannibalize tha camera for mount and winding stuff.

>If you have to sharpen digitally, it's either to make up for camera

>technique or you are using a really cheap desktop scanner.

 

Please define "really cheap".

Do you wind the film until the marks on the backing line up with the marks inside the camera? I don't know exactly how the marks look in a Rollei since I've only got a Minoltacord, a Yashicamat and a Kiev. But there should be some kind of them.

Yes, you'll need a lens around 80 mm or so.

Why did you buy third party replacements when the original light trap is so cheap?

It is normal.

They are composition help/guides for super slids 4x4 cm/guide for rectangular cropping. The finder shows a little less than reaches the film.

Solution: Project on the floor.

I have abolutely no experience of this, but I guess any MF camera could do this, with a lens that has a reasonable flat image field, and bellows/rings enough to make the reproduction scale. A 70 mm back would probably be cheaper and faster than switching 120/220 all the time.

 

What I don´t understand in your suggestion is why you would contact dupe the output from the film recorder. Since cost doesn´t seem to be an issue to you anyway, why not make the dupes with the film recorder with higher quality?

[OT]

 

Pete Andrews: I´m curious where you have found that "Compatible cartridges are available for all the current Epson printers"? I have an 870 and I haven´t seen any. I looked up Jet-Tec, and they could not deliver.

When I think about it, I guess 9 could happen when no film is installed too.

Ok, backwards, as far as I can. I don´t own an Autocord, just the older (1953) Minoltacord, so my answers could be wrong.

 

13. Pull them out to load film spools

 

11. Part 1 - don´t know, part 2 - no, the finder is actually a bit smaller than the actual image. I guess the lines are a help for rectangular composition

 

10. Don´t know with the Autocords, but on my Minoltacord and my Yashicamat you need to install the upper film spool for the counter to work

 

9. The winder should stop when it´s ready. If it doesn´t, I guess it´s broken

 

1. This is really only a guess, but it should be resided at the pressure plate and work by moving the plate in/out

<p>It is not the focal length that alters the perspective, it´s the position. The reason a wide angle emphasizes foreground is because you stand near the forground. As simple as that. <p>A correct size crop from a wide angle is identical to a tele picture of the same area. Read <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/tutorial/lens">this</a>.