jimh

Check a couple of directories up, <a href="http://24.237.160.4/files/photography/Nikon/N90stuff/">here</a>.

Yes, <a href="http://24.237.160.4/files/photography/Nikon/Manuals/N90Ssrv/">here</a>.

I use plastic cans in my N70 and F4. I actually had problems rewinding once with the N70.

The 352 is one of Manfrottos smallest heads. The ball is hardly even 20 mm in diameter. I own one and would not put my F4s on it, not mentioning heavy MF rigs. If you look in the finder with a short tele on the camera you can se the image moving all around the place.

 

If I had to choose between a sturdy head and sturdy legs, I'd definitively go for the head.

 

In the Manfrotto line I'd say the 308 is the smallest I'd use with that camera but I'd rather have something sturdier than that. The 308 is rated about at about the same camera weights in Manfrottos lists but I think they must have smoked something when they wrote it. Those two heads can't be compared at all, the 308 is MUCH sturdier.

I dry all my film on reels in a small plastic can with a computer fan on top. The air inlet is filtered with both filter cloth and a carburator filter. The film dries in 45 minutes with not much more curl than it got when I used to hang dry it. But I do leave it sleeved in a coffee table book over the night to flatten it afterwards.

Why not just replace the e-mail address with a contact form?

 

At least it would kill the possibility for spammers to harvest addresses while still keeping the ability for members to communicate.

There is a Chinese camera on the market, <a href="http://www.photax.se/kmrr/phenix/dn60/phenixdn60.htm">Phenix</a>, which features a Nikon mount. The page I'm referring to is in Swedish, couldn't find it in English.

Elements doesn't seem to be able to work in 16 bit mode.

I use IE 6 but it cured the slowness here too. Thanks!

You're right. The static page loads really fast compared to the real one.

I agree with Todd, it's the table. Browsers don't render table contents until everything is downloaded. Content not enclosed in table tags is rendered in the order it's downloaded.

 

Philip writes about it <a href="http://philip.greenspun.com/panda/static">here</a> and it seems to be one of those tings that hasn't changed despite generations of browsers.

I have the educational edition of Photoshop and it's the real thing. I'm from Sweden though and I guess Adobe's licensing <i>could</i> be different where you are.

Shooting negatives on a light table at EI 64 and developing in D76 for 9 minutes gives wonderful b&w slides. If the original negatives are low contrast I'd increase the development time a couple of minutes.

The emulsion side is structured. You should be able to see the lines between different densities in the image if you have the emulsion side up.

Tha Yashicamat syncs on all speeds.

<i>I'll be t there is an ISO standard for sheet film sizing.</i>

My best guess is <a href="http://www.iso.ch/iso/en/CatalogueDetailPage.CatalogueDetail?CSNUMBER=25440&ICS1=37&ICS2=40&ICS3=20">ISO 10012</a>.

Absolutely, it will work fine if you don't need wide angle. You will get a bigger amount of shift (seen from the image area) with the TC.

Bold</b> off.

The shift is in millimeters, not degrees. And it stays the same, though the effects of it will <b>increase</i>.

<p>

11 mm is roughly a shift of one third of the frame. With a tc you will crop the frame, but the movement will stay the same.

How about the <a href="http://www.kievcamera.com/camera.php?ID=14">Peleng 8mm fish eye</a>?

I guess you'll have to turn the camera upside down when you need to shift the lens downwards. Or remove the finder like Todd said.

You won't be able to use other exposure modes than S or P with a G lens. In other words, no manual mode, no aperture priority. Are you really prepared to pay that price?

Sounds like a broken lens to me. The FA should like AF lenses.

Oh, forgot Extensis Photoframe, another product that makes the same thing. I think there is a demo to download on that too, but with equally bad and ugly examples.

Auto Fx Photographic Edges is a product that comes to my mind. There is a demo somewhere on the net so you can try it. The demo doesn't contain any 'real' edges though, just a bunch of ugly borders.

 

Personally I have simply printed a black negative with a filed out carrier, scanned the result into Photoshop and erased the inner area to make it transparent to get a border I can layer with my images in Photoshop.