alfaromeo
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Posts posted by alfaromeo
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<p>I have an old movie that I transferred to DVD, it had a lot of dust, scratches, etc. that were not fixed before or during transfer. Is there any software on the marked that has video enhancement plug -ins to improve the video afterwards? Please, advise, I will greatly appreciate. Thanks</p>
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<p>check the exposure metering mode, maybe it is in spot or centerweighted position</p>
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<p>I have the 18-200 and like you said the sharpness goes down as you approach 200mm, I do not like it at 200mm at all. Sell it and get nikon 80-200mm, for the same money and it is really sharp.</p>
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<p>Thanks Tim, that solved my problem, and the monitor was DELL 2408WFP<br /> It doesnt look reddish in SFW anymore, but I see it is the same when I upload it here</p>
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<p>no, im not using it in the dark room, and I actually calibrated the monitor with the ambient light taken into consideration, plus it looks normal unless I save it for web.</p>
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<p>monitor is calibrated with Spyder2pro. If I understand this corectly for the internet viewing the sRGB color space is used. The image is in sRGB so is the working color space in my CS2, I even tryied to convert it to sRGB again, but as soon as I hit save for web it turns slightly red.</p>
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<p>I have started having some issues with the color shifts after I reinstalled everything on my PC when I save the image for web. It looks OK in PS CS2, originally the image is in sRGB color space, working is sRGB too. As soon as I hit "save for web" it becomes reddish. Please, advise. Thank you.<br>
Sample of the image saved for web, does it look OK?<br>
<img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k28/alfaromeo155/jess13.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p>there isnt anything special about calibration method, I just follow onscreen instructions, this is pretty much it. I dont think you can check settings with Express, can I?</p>
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<p>I purchased the dell 2408WFP recently, tried to calibrate with the Spyder2 Express and it asked me to reset the monitor to factory settings before calibration. I did, and after calibration it is way too contrasty. It actually looks worse than my old 17" Viewsonic LCD. Question, can I manually turn the contrast down a little and / or increase brightness a little to make it look natural. Will it still retain the calibration data colors vise or everything will be thrown away if I touch it.<br>
Thank you in advance<br>
Jerry</p>
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<p>yes, I agree with 5.6 being soft, but not in the center , it shouldnt matter for the center whether it is 5.6 or 8-11</p>
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<p>eric, it was f5.6 the max you can get at 200mm with this lens, and about 1/1000s shutter speed, I wanted to achieve shallow DOF</p>
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<p>shooting test chart reveals nothing, looks like it is OK where it should be, but the pictures look frontfocused. Could this be a VR related? I've noticed when shooting the chart with VR on the focus point slightly changes after the shutter was released, it moves to the front<br /> <img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k28/alfaromeo155/DSC_0334.jpg" alt="" /> <img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k28/alfaromeo155/DSC_0311.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p>I will do a more controlled experiment with the test chart, but this is what I have been getting almost all the time. Kids werent really moving around, the focus point was the center one, wasnt automatically selected</p>
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<p>I have had some difficulties taking the sharp photos with the Nikon 18-200mm +D300. The image just isnt sharp enough. Does it look like a frontfocusing problem? From the pics below looks like the grass in front of kids is much sharper than where the focus point is. Did anybody else have the same problem?<br /> <img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k28/alfaromeo155/ff.jpg" alt="" width="1008" height="704" /> <img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k28/alfaromeo155/fff.jpg" alt="" width="423" height="1023" /></p>
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<p>Patrick did you mean Dell Ultrasharp 240WFP?</p>
<h1 >Dell UltraSharp 2408WFP</h1>
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<p>I am looking for a good low budget monitor 22-24" size. With all the new technology changing so quickly I have lost track of whats a good choice nowadays. PLease, advise. I need to replace my Viewsonic P220F CRT which takes up a lot of space on my desk. Not looking for the best in the world type of monitors, just a good one for under $400 or even less for editing photographs from time to time for amateur use.<br>
Thank you in advance.</p>
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<p>large appertures are affected by spherical aberrations, small by diffraction</p>
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<p>like richard pointed out, the smaller the focal length to the diameter of the lens the smaller the f# is.<br /> successive apertures halve the amount of incoming light. To achieve this, the diaphragm reduces the aperture <strong>diameter</strong> by a factor <strong>1.4 </strong> (square root of 2) so that the aperture <strong>surface</strong> is halved each successive step as shown on this diagram<br>
<img src="http://www.dpreview.com/learn/articles/glossary/exposure/images/123di_aperture.gif" alt="" width="544" height="200" /></p>
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<p>While there are plenty of Tokinas 11-16mm for Canon there are only a few for Nikon with a ~$140 price difference, increase, of course. Isn't it the same lens? I have been looking to get this lens for quite some time now, and the longer I look the more expensive it gets. The price for the Canon mount stays pretty much the same where it was. The question is why?</p>
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<p>sell it and get a D90 or a used D200 and then ad 18-200 and if budget alows get a Tokina 11-16mm instead of sigma 10-20 for indoors, it is 2.8 lens , excellent for indoor low light use. I dont think you can buy either of these lenses just for selling D70s or D60, those are $600+ lenses.</p>
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<p>Tokina 11-16mm is the best UWA lens on the market as of right now, even better than twice as expensive nikon 12-24mm. If $570 too much then consider Sigma 10-20mm for less money. Tokina 12-24 is a very good lens as well.</p>
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<p>have you tried Active D-Lighting feature ?</p>
T2i and Tokina 11-16mm
in Canon EOS Mount
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