NetR

<p>Bela seems to be thinking about the AF 24-50 f3.5 to 5.6, so his comment is invalid. </p> <p>The old manual 24-50 f4 fixed aperture is a very good lens and highly regarded by Bjorn Rorslett as an excellent lens for the Df. </p>

<p>What Lex said. Gee, I wish I could explain things so well.</p>

<p>Nikon has consistently got slightly better images from Sony sensors than Sony can (eg the Nikon D810 vs the Sony A7R - se <a href="http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D810-versus-Sony-A7R-versus-Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III___963_917_795">http://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D810-versus-Sony-A7R-versus-Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III___963_917_795</a> . A proper comparison needs both cameras to have the same settings in terms of ISO, shutter speed and aperture. Auto cam vary from second to second with light conditions and may be implemented differently between camera makers.</p>

<p>Are you using film backed with paper? If not, there's your problem. 828 roll film had a backing paper, like 120 film does.</p>

<p>If all you are interested in is video, why bother wasting money on a camera that can also take stills? Surely a specialist videocamera would be better.</p>

<p>One way to tell if you have talent for photography is when other people like your work. They indicate this by saying that you must have an expensive camera :(</p>

<p>I loved all the example photos. Impressionistic.</p>

<p>I think the problem the Facebook site owner had is that people who steal someone else's photographs are criminals. They don't respond nicely to adverse publicity. They act like criminals and attack anyone trying to stop them. The criminals have no rules.</p>

<p>I suppose that sitting back and collecting royalties, because someone once took and showed someone else a photo that had you in the background, beats working for a living.</p>

<p>Rodeo Joe - thanks for your observation about NOT balancing the lens and camera on the tripod. Your explanation makes good sense to me.<br> Interesting discussion guys.</p>

<p>It would be nice to see someone make a priority for Sony FE lenses, as Sony isn't doing much.</p>

<p>I agree with Shun. Probably the 28.</p>

<p>The Carl Zeiss Jena (East German) lenses are good generally quality, cover 6x6, and there are adapters for Mamiya and Pentax 645 cameras. The Kiev 60 camera can also use the same lenses as the Pentacon 6 (same lens mount and film plane to lens mount distance) and has it own set of Kiev-made lenses, such as the Mir 45mm mentioned above.<br> My personal experience, YMMV, is that the Pentacon 6 camera is a bit like an old British sports car - very complex, with lots of parts that have to be adjusted very precisely for the whole thing to work properly. The Ukrainian Kiev 60 camera is an original soviet design that is much simpler and more robust than the Pentacon 6, and much more reliable.</p>

<p>The newer 18-35mm lens is much sharper at the edges, especially for the wider end of the range. This is noticeable even at f/11. Distortion is about the same, but the newer lens has all barrel distortion while the older lens has some moustache type distortion, which is harder to deal with.<br> So you would see better sharpness across the whole image with the newer lens, and it would be more useful where there are straight lines in your picture (easier to make them straight).</p>

<p>Thanks for the update, Shun.</p>

<p>The fastest CF cards write data faster than the fastest SD cards - but it depends on the technology level of the cards - a new SD may be quicker than an old CF.</p>

<p>Try turning off the forced DX crop. The Nikon 12-24 has an image circle large enough to cover an FX frame from around 18mm. This may save you quite a bit of money.</p>

<p>KEH describes its goods conservatively. I have been happy to buy from overseas (New Zealand) and trust their ratings. </p>

<p>You have a choice of two: Canon Powershot D20 or Canon Powershot D30.</p>

<p>The D800 meter is sensitive to the item under the focussing point.<br> It is possible the meter in the first picture is on the light gray boat and is reducing the exposure to make the light gray boat a middle gray (18% gray). Try using the Bracket feature to take a series of shots at different exposures at the same time. Then see which exposure looks right to you.<br> Also, are you sure that your monitor is set up correctly?</p>

<p>If you know any reason why this couple should not be joined in holy matrimony, please fire a missile or forever hold your peace.</p>

<p>The 70-300 is an FX lens and for DX bodies you are only using the central, optically better, part of the lens. So it will be optically up to the job. This is one of the best lens bargains that Nikon makes and it works well on my D600 FX.<br> However, a D5300 body is a downgrade from a D90 in terms of features and you might be better to consider the D7100 instead. The D90 was upgraded to the D7000 then to the D7100.</p>

<p>Nice Brecht reference. Since you have the NEX7 there is not a lot of point in going to the expense of selling it and buying something different. Work on how to use the NEX to get the best from it. This review should give you some pointers. <br> http://www.sansmirror.com/cameras/a-note-about-camera-reviews/sony-nex-camera-reviews/sony-nex-7-review.html</p> <p> </p>

<p>"How long does a DSLR body last" isn't the right question. If you spend $250 on the D90, will it be worth more than $250 afterwards? If yes, it is financially better to spend the money, even if you then immediately sell it for a D7100.<br> But there is another question. Does the D90 fulfil what you need (need not want) photographically, or would a D71000 have capabilities the D90 does not have?</p>

<p>A Nikon 1 camera needs the FT-1 adapter to use an F mount lens, and the lens/adapter combo is bulky and reduces functionality. I have both a D3200 and V2 and recommend the D3xxx option for what you want.</p>