NetR

The decision to close down seems to have been made only today or yesterday.

No one knows. But Nikon would be stupid not to accommodate the millions of existing lenses out there. The D750 body is an example of how they might go about it in terms of design - it has a deep handgrip. The Nikon 1 series allowed the use of FX and DX AF-S lenses with an adapter, so it is very likely Nikon will provide some sort of accommodation.

One of the great things about digital photography is that you can do an experiment and see the outcome straight away, so you don't have to sit by the computer waiting for someone to reply to you. Skepticism is a totally wrong approach. Try it out and see for your self. There is more information on https://photographylife.com/iso-invariance-explained/ . FYI the D7000 is ISO invariant and the proof is here - just click on D7000 to see the chart http://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm

The assertion of "greatest lens selection" for Mirrorless is nonsense, unless he means via adapters, in which case one loses much of the functionality of a lens. Where is the Olympus Tilt/Shift lens or 600mm f/4 equivalent? This is a rather silly whimsy that shoult not be taken seriously.

<p>Thom Hogan covers the issue well in this article. http://www.sansmirror.com/articles/pick-a-size.html</p> <p>Don't worry about the fact the article is about mirrorless cameras. The stuff you need to read about the impact of sensor size with difference lens settings applies for any camera and it is under the paragraph heading "But the Real Story is...", which is about halfway down the article.</p>

<p>The version of Windows 7 you run, and whether it is 32 bit or 64 bit, is important. See here: https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/windows/en-US/05c7197e-e567-44d2-be9e-<br> 8018ec4438a/what-is-the-maximum-amount-of-installed-ram-that-windows-7-x64-can-use?forum=w7itprohardware<br /><br />Hit CTRL ALT DEL and select Task Manager and see what is running and how much of your computer's resources are being used.</p>

<p>It does not matter at all.<br> It doesn't matter if you prefer to use a wide angle lens. It doesn't matter if you prefer to use a telephoto lens. It doesn't matter if you haven't got a camera to mount the lens on. It doesn't matter if you only put photos on the internet, because you need a really, really large print to see the difference between two sharp lenses.<br> It is irrelevant if you prefer to hand hold your camera, because you will only achieve maximum sharpness from any lens with the camera mounted on a very good quality tripod.<br> Sharpness is not an overall quality of a lens anyway. A lens might be very sharp as some focus distances and not so sharp at other focus distances. A lens might be sharp at one aperture and less sharp at other apertures. A lens might be sharper for some wavelengths of light and not so sharp at other wavelengths of light, so the colour of what you photograph can be relevant.<br> Discussion about how sharp a lens is compared with other lenses is just a waste of time, unless you get very, very specific about EXACTLY how you plan to use the lens and how big you intent to enlarge the photograph.</p>

<p>I'd just go for one image and focus on analysing it. If you go for a series you'll need to spend time justifying our choice, and you don't need a hassle like that just now.</p>

<p>Your DX lenses will mount on your FG body but that's about all:</p> <p>(1) the image circle of a DX lens will not cover the FX frame of the FG so any picture you take would be a round image with black surrounding. The hole in the lens just isn't big enough to to throw light onto all the FX film frame.<br /><br /><br />(2) you will have to use the lenses at f/16 because the DX lenses are also type G and do not have an aperture ring you can adjust.<br /><br />It is hardly worth trying. Any Nikon manual focus AI or AIS lens will be fine on your FG, also any Nikon autofocus lens that has an aperture ring (only works in manual focus of course). </p> <p>This article by Thom Hogan may help with the various types of Nikon lenses. Your FG has similar capability to the FM2n. http://www.bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm<br> <br />Good luck. There is something different about using film that you may enjoy. If not, you haven't spent much money. I agree with the suggestions from Michael above for suitable lenses.</p>

<p>I have never heard of this problem before for one of Nikon's most famous lenses. My copy focuses to infinity with no problems. I suspect your lens has been taken apart for servicing and been incorrectly assembled. Take it back to where you purchased it and ask for it to be corrected.</p>

<p>Its a weed. Stinking Passionflower, formal name Passiflora foetida. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passiflora_foetida</p>

<p>Fundamentalists of any religious tradition may do unpleasant things to outsiders.</p>

<p>Why not just buy a Nikon camera body?</p>

<p>Well done Shun! </p>

<p>There is some good stuff on photo.net under the Learning tab. For example http://www.photo.net/learn/basic-photo-tips/aperture-shutterspeed-iso/</p> <p>To get the bench sharp and the background out of focus, the only thing that will matter is the f stop of the lens - it needs to be as low (open) as possible. Depth of field tends to appear greater with a wide angle lens, so your best hope would have been using the telephoto (135mm) end of the lens at the widest stop, which would be f/5.6. You then set a speed and ISO, taking care not to let white snow fool the camera meter, which is set assuming your picture averages about 12% gray.<br> All the ND filter is doing is slowing the shutter speed. You usually only need it on really bright days.<br> Yes, you need to look at all your corners as well as at the subject.<br> Isn't digital wonderful though - in the old days your shoot would have used about 3 x 36 exposure rolls of film and cost you quite a bit for processing. Digital gives you instant feedback.</p>

<p>The other thing about the D500 is that it cruelly exposes the lack of professional quality zooms and primes in DX. We've got a 35, a 17-55 and little else.</p>

<p>An earlier respondent got it. A D500 with a 200-500mm f/5.6 zoom (crop 300-750mm) is going to be way cheaper than any FX body with an 800 f/5.6 prime. A lighter weight, professional build, fast shooting, decent sized buffer, sport and birding combo. Spend the funds you save on a decent gimbal tripod head.</p>

<p>Nikon used to make lenses for Bronica medium format cameras. Presumably they didn't see profit in making their own.</p>

<p>Probably needs a new battery. Only the 1/100 speed is manual.</p>

<p>If you have a look at the lens, there is nowhere to put a collar and retain full use.</p> <p>The first part of the lens, starting at the mount, is bevelled and it would be hard to attach a collar. The next strip out has the M/AM and VR buttons. The next ring out is the focus ring, the next strip has the 28mm lock, then you get the zoom ring. The final strip where filters may be attached is also bevelled. The lens was clearly designed to be used handheld.</p> <p>It would be possible to make up a collar with cutouts but it would have to be a custom job.</p> <p>If you are concerned about weight, have you considered a cushioned Op/Tech camera strap?</p>

<p>"I know the DF is not a popular Nikon camera"</p> <p>As I understand it, Nikon have sold more Df cameras than they expected to, I don't think they have ever been discounted in price, and you very seldom see a second hand one for sale. The DF seems to be very popular with its target market, but they are not for everyone.</p>

<p>Context? There is more than one.</p>

<p>It looks like a Nikon F3 Type T focussing screen and probably needed a non-standard way of putting it in place because the size was wrong for an F2.<br> See <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/screens/index.htm">http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/screens/index.htm</a> for the F3 focussing screens and <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/screens/index.htm">http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/screens/index.htm</a> plus the two following pages for the F and F2 focussing screens</p>

<p>These are not available in Live View. Otherwise check your manual for each item to see when it is grayed out.</p>

<p>Sorry - typo. Should be 35-50mm f4 fixed aperture.</p>