PuppyDigs

<p>I had two on my 5D and haven't noticed any on my 5D2 or 6D during long exposures. It's pretty simply to map them out a good rare converter. Even DPP has the hot pixel mapping feature.</p>

<p>I agree, you'll see little or no difference at F11. In fact, on a 60D you're already suffering reduced IQ due to diffraction. The reason a zoom like the 24-70L costs more is because it's F2.8, has less distortion, is sharper wide open and in the corners than similar lenses and is built like a tank. <br /> <br /> A fair test would be to set each lens at F3.5/24mm, 5.6/70mm and try again. Of course, the 24-70L may need micro adjustment for each individual camera to be at its best. Mine required +5 at 24mm and 0 at 70mm. Most of my lenses need some MA (some more or less on different cameras).<br /> <br /> Or, worse case, you have a defective 24-70L in need of alignment and calibration. My 70-200L drifted out of alignment after a few years of use and needed alignment service to be sharp again.</p>

<p>yes, LV show 100% of the recorded image. I still shoot with a 5D2 and 6D and find the 6D grip a little more comfy but the difference is minor. The lack of a joystick on the 6D took the longest to get used to. The 6D also lack a dedicated FEC button which drove me nuts at first (Q-screen is too slow in the heat of a shoot). However, you can assign FEC to the set button and -+ FEC with the main dial.</p>

<p>You have really skinny paragraphs!</p>

<p>Manual focus is a lot faster in LV on that camera and how most of us use it. Nevertheless, contrast focus mode is very accurate in decent light. It's just that it's only good for still life and landscapes. The only Canon DSLRs with significantly faster contrast focus in LV are the 7D2, 70D, T5i and SL1, albeit still much slower than using the phase shift AF.</p>

<p>I owned several Sigmas from the late 1990s and early 2000s and none of them worked on my digital EOS cameras. They mounted but gave an error when I attempted to stop down. I inquired at Sigma and was told ROM updates weren't supplied for older lenses. My late 1980s EF 50 1.8 still works on all my EOS cameras, including fairly recent models such as the SL1 and 70D.</p> <p>I agree with the other poster, the EF-s 18-55 STM is a greater starter optic and far better suited for the t5i than the ancient Sigmas.</p>

<p>I have four 256MB cards in a drawer from 2003 and I just tried one and it works! Holds fewer RAW images than a roll of film...</p>

<p>I've never worn out a CF card. They just get too small for my new camera and get tossed in a drawer.</p> <p>Canon stopped supporting the 5D in Camera Window and EOS Utility several years back. However, the RAW files are fully supported in DPP and most other raw editors. So no auto download or changing user data in Utility.</p> <p>I prefer to drag 'n drop my files so I know where they went and the OP can continue to do that. If you use the photo app that came with your iMac--Aperture or iPhoto--it will auto upload from the card if you don't like drag 'n dropping yourself.</p> <p>As others have indicated, you need to buy a really good card reader with tight guides and a deep door that "shallows" at least 50% of the card. The deeper the more secure the fit and less chance of bent pins. The Lexar CFR1 is one such reader (I own one):</p> <p>http://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-Workflow-CompactFlash-LRWCFR1RBNA/dp/B00EJ8CKPC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416770672&sr=1-3&keywords=lexar+card+<br /> As well as the PixelFlash USB 3.0 No-Bend Pins CF Card Reader:<br /> http://www.amazon.com/PixelFlash-No-Bend-SuperSpeed-Compact-PFUSB3CFRD/dp/B005IMFX2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416770815&sr=8-1&keywords=no+bent+pins+card+reader</p>

<p>Here's an instructional video for the 70D, almost exactly the same menus and steps as the 6D:</p> <p>http://youtu.be/5J13LtKcXjA</p> <p>I don't recall it seeming as complicated but that probably because I sort of felt my way through and lucked out the first time.</p>

<p>I've used the EOS Remote app with both my 70D and 6D and it quickly and easily connected with my iPhone 5S and iPad 2. No struggle, stable, easy to use and works great within its limited features. However I'm running iOS 8 (worked under iOS 7 well too). iOS5 is old and, if the past is an indicator, Canon didn't spend a lot of time testing with legacy systems. Perhaps you should update to iOS 8 and give it a go.</p> <p>Honestly, I'd rather use a wired or IR remote but the app is handy while traveling if you want to suck a few pics into your phone for uploads. I wonder if Canon will ever update this app? Probably better off buying an app from an aftermarket developer if you're serious about using something like this.</p> <p>On the other hand, it took me over a half hour to get my 6D Wi-Fi to connect to my Mac. Canon Remore's Mac connection is overly complicated. I think I'll stick to a USB cable for that one.</p>

<p>I bought the Rainbow Imaging HEW65B clone of the EW-65B and it looks and works great (also sold as the JJC Photography Equipment co LH-W65B). Close to OEM quality save for a lack of rayon flocking. It was $10, a savings of $40 over OEM.</p>

<p>Haha, thanks. I noticed when I linked it. Forgot to change some for the headers of my template! I bought the Holy Trinity this summer--24, 28 and 35 IS and wrote reviews on them at the same time. I ended up returning the 28 2.8 IS due to strong front focus problems. I could MA it on my 6D but everything was soft on my SL1 (lacks MA).</p>

<p>I bought a refurb EF 24 2.8 IS USM from Canon Direct last summer for $379 and have been pleased with both optical and IS performance. It is very sharp center frame when wide open and a little softer in the corners but is better in this respect than my old EF 24 2.8 and 35 2.0. To me the big improvement is the IS and greatly improved AF. My 24 2.8 IS review:</p> <p>http://emedia.leeward.hawaii.edu/frary/canon_ef24_2.8is_usm.htm</p>

<p>Maybe it's not a bad camera buy but a bad battery buy. I hated those 2CR5 batteries: didn't last very long and, yes, some were a wee bit too small. I recall I needed a bit of card stock in my Elan to keep it snug.</p>

<p>I still have an Elan (EOS 100) I bought new in 1991 along with a barcode reader and booklet! My shutter curtain gummed up but I was able to unfreeze it with lighter fluid and 1000 Q-tips strokes. 10 minutes of AI servo and that battery is dead.</p>

<p>Sadly--short of buying a camera with MA--you're stuck if you're unwilling to return the lens or have it calibrated by Canon. This summer I bought the EF 28 2.8 IS USM to use as a "normal" lens on my Rebel SL1 and it front focused terribly. I could MA it perfectly on my 6D but the SL1 lacks the MA feature so back it went. I bought the 24 2.8 IS USM and it was spot on without MA so it all worked out.</p>

<p>I'm a RAW shooter/tweaker and hardened pixel peeper but many of my friends mainly shoot JPEGs as images go straight from the camera to production. JPEG quality is significant to many shooters and can make or break a camera.</p>

<p>I've gone through several Canon remotes and off-shoe flash cords in a few years and, yeah, the friggen wee wires break where they go in the doohicky. I've moved to knockoffs and they seem to last almost as long but for 10% of the price of OEM. The EOS Remote app on iOS works well if you have a newer Wi-Fi enabled EOS, albeit you need a pocket full of batteries if you plan an evening of use.</p>

<p>The best solution is to buy the RC-6 remote: engage self-timer mode and use the RC-6 to trigger your 60D when you're ready.</p> <p>http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037NX6JY/ref=pdp_new_dp_review</p>

<p>If it were me, I'd buy the nicest toy that pickles mah pickle. It's all about having fun, enjoying your hobby and, compared to most of my friend's hobbies--sailboats, motorcycles and mistresses--a new 7D2 or 5D3 is almost free.</p>

<p>I think Rob nailed it: dark frame NR is a feature and not a failure.</p>

<p>Actually using the B&W pic style is helpful as you can see the approximate results on the camera LCD and adjust composition accordingly. However, as others have said, aftermarket RAW converters can't read Canon's Pic style tag. You'll have to open it in DPP if you want it to display the pic style as default.</p> <p>I prefer to use the Topaz B&W plug-in and hand blend selected conversions according to my taste: <br> <img src="http://emedia.leeward.hawaii.edu/frary/downtown_images/Hawaii_theatre_0091sign.jpg" alt="" /> </p>

<p>Garth, sounds like you have "Quick focus" (mirror drop focus) enabled. It has two stages: focus and exposure<br /><br /></p> <ol> <li>Aim and half press shutter button: mirror flops and focuses (active AF point flashes green on the LCD). Retain half press on the shutter button to keep focus locked.</li> <li>Without releasing the half-press, press all the way to take the picture.</li> </ol> <p>If you're not in a hurry, dive into the menus and enable contrast focus: no mirror drop and slower but some people prefer it (mellower/softer).</p>

<p>Older lenses sometimes become soft due to elements drifting out of alignment. Happened to my old EF 70-200 4L. Canon realigned it and it became tack sharp again.</p>

<p>I have the original EF 200 2.8L USM, bought new in 1994. Tripod Mount Ring A (black) is the original recommended mount, but the white version and updated Tripod Mount Ring A II work as well. If you own the ring for an EF 300 4 L USM, EF 80-200 2.8L, EF70-200 4L USM, EF400 5.6L USM or EF70-200 4L IS USM you already have a ring that fits. Canon doesn't list these older lenses as compatible with Tripod Mount Ring A variants since they're long out of production.</p>