oskar_romeo

Can't believe it's already been a year since I posted this! But I wanted to update this with results that worked much much better.

Those steps create much clearer positive pictures from what I was trying in the beginnning! For a paper developer it actually makes for quite a good image projected (my scanner is not the best and makes it look bad). Well with my eyes anyway, i'm not that much of a photographer! That last step is not needed, i've heard people say the film will slowly turn dark over time if you dont fix the film in the end. But the multigrade developer is so strong that I think any undeveloped silver that was there would have been developed anyways. The film strips i've done over a year ago without the fixer have not turned dark yet. I can't quite remember completely but I think those black spots were caused by bubbles in the first developer and a good pre-wash fixed it.

 

I recommend doing a black and white reversal at least once (its surprisingly easy), I learnt a lot from it and it is really fun in the process. Pulling it out after the first stop bath and watching it develop the rest of the way in a clear container is really a sight to see! Pretty cool seeing all you need is one cheap developer and a few chemicals you can buy from bunnings!

Do you actually re-expose twice? After 1st. development and after bleach clearing?

tcdp

Has anyone tried to bleach RA-4 paper sheets using C41 bleach RA instead of the intended RA-4 Blix?

I understand It would have to be fixed after bleach.

Thanks

The Kodak Wratten 13 is a yellow-green optical filter. This filter, also known as the X2 was used when Type C black & white film to grant improved monochromatic rendering when Type C Panchromatic black & white film was exposed under tungsten illumination. This film has increased sensitivity to the red region of the spectrum.

 

When printing color negative films by contact or enlarger, a panchromatic black & white paper is the paper of choice. The Kodak # 13 Ambler safelight, illuminated with a 15 watt bulb can be used, with cares as an aid to inspection developing.

Thank you for sharing your experince, Mr Marcus!!

I might as well use the #15 Safelight to developing sheets by inspection doing reversal process with RA-4 paper.

It might be usefeull in the B&W first development that should take no more than a 1.5 minutes, maybe less if I switch it on some 15 seconds after starting to develop.

Thanks, Sir

romeo

There is no Wratten 13 in the Kodak filter handbook. Did you perhaps write the wrong number?

 

Fwiw, the Wratten numbers jump from #12 to # 15, both of which are yellow.

Thank you.

Can anyone tell me the difference between thses two??? Or is it that the first one is intended only to be used as filter and dnot as a safelight? Some people in the web mentions using Wratten 13 as a safelight filter, or is it pure kodak 13 safelight they are using?.

Thanks everybody!!

Is there a big difference between both of these filters? they are both supposed to be used with RA-4 paper in darkroom but the first states to be Amber and Wratten to be Green!!

Thanks evreybody!!

When I've shot it in my Speed Graphic, I think I ended up settling on an ISO of around 6.

Excellent!

Some said it's 3 ISO; So I will stick to 6 Iso, since in a sunny day it's about 1 sec at f/11 to which my camera is set up!!

I found this on the Ilford site. Scroll down to page 2.

 

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file_id/1917/product_id/725/?___store=ilford_brochure&__from_store=ilford_brochure

 

Regards.

I reckon that info is useful for enlarging prints but I want this Ilfospeed photo paper to use it as a negative!

Thank you!!

Hi everybody!!

What Iso speed should I rate this photo paper?

I will place it inside a 6x9 camera using a shutter release.

Thanks!!:)

I've a 35EC2 and what I do for battery is this: stuff good amount of aluminium foil into the negative part of the battery chamber and place 2 LR44 batteries in series with aluminium foil in the positive part. Haven't measure the voltage/current but it seems to work - results look fine to me with the B&W and C-41 films I shot on this camera.

Is it still working fine the EC2 like this? :)

4g caustic soda pellets + 8.4g sodium bicarbonate = 10.6g sodium carbonate (in solution).

 

A slight excess of bicarbonate will have a buffering effect and tend to stabilise the pH value of the solution. So if you mix 4g NaOH with 8.5g of NaHCO3, and substitute that for every 10g of anhydrous Na2CO3 in the 'formula', you'll be close enough.

I don't want to put your statement in doubt but, are you sure of this equation? Has this proved to be exact? As someone has referred (which BTW is completly right) anydrhous carbonate stops being anyhidrous for too long when box/package has been opened and exposed to ir since moisture reconverts it to bi-carbonate in some time, this makes difficult to be accurate when measuring chemicals which might eventually lead you to a undesired outcome.

romeo

Thanks :)

 

I'm not sure you can use any of those. I know you can use sulphuric acid instead if you can get it, sometimes used in drain cleaner and in battery acid. Sodium bisulphate is easy to get and cheap (for me at least) and is commonly used as a pool PH decreaser. I think you can even buy it on ebay. Just have a look at the MSDS for the one you find, mine showed 92% - 100% purity.

Yeah! It's sold in pool stores as 'Dry Acid' . I assume bleach is once used and then discarded, right?

Very nice formula! I'm gonna try it soon!

Thanks for sharing!!

romeo

If you heat up hydrated carbonates (or hydrated most chemicals) you drive out the water.

 

Eventually you also drive out the carbonate.

 

Arm & Hammer is a popular brand for both in the US.

 

Sodium carbonate - Wikipedia

 

sounds like monohydrate is the usual form.

 

If you buy it from a chemical supplier, reagent in glass bottles, you might get the anhydrous form,

but it will start to collect water out of the air as soon as you open it.

 

In a cardboard box, usual for washing soda, I don't think it will stay anhydrous for long.

 

From: Solvay process - Wikipedia

 

the bicarbonate (hydrogen carbonate in chemical literature) goes to anhydrous carbonate

at 160 to 230C. I suspect it is then hydrated to monohydrate before packaging and sale.

 

Anhydrous chemicals are often a fine powder, where the hydrated form is more coarse, the

water holding the crystal together.

 

Anhydrous is 106g/mole, monohydrate 124g/mole, so you can adjust the weights if needed.

Well, I live in a very humid port city, so in the end this takes me back to the beginning. I think i will just switch to Borax instead of the carbonate, or eventually buying any carbonate and adjusting the involved quantity.

Thanks for the answer.

romeo

If you have Arm & Hammer Washing Soda available, you can use it in your Cafennol developer. It is anhydrous right out of the box. Excellent results with it per most Caffenol "receipes" and I use it gram for gram in my current Obsidian Aqua pyro staining developer. Aloha, Bill

No, it´s not sold here! Thank you!

romeo

Very nice!

Is there an alternative for Sodium Bisulfate for the bleach?

Would any of these do? : Sodium bisulfite, potasium phospahte , sodium phosphate+ citrate? Any?

Cheers!!

Hello,

I am about to make some Cafennol Developer and already have ascorbic acid and Kbr.

I found a Sodium Carbonate provider to which i asked if the product is anhydrous. He replied saying the data sheet only states that hymidity is 0.150 max

Can this be considered anhydrous since it´s less than 1 gram?

I already know if heated sod. Bicarbonate becomes sod. Carbonate, but I just don´t want to do that.

Thanks in advance

romeo

You will need a dust mask when you mix it up. Most of the powders (even fixers) fall into this need. The powders can be breathed in and the lungs get an unhealthy dose.

 

When it is mixed, the developer is no more toxic than the premixed ones you buy.

Ok, I so nothing to worry about if taking normal procedures (dust mask and golves) and once mixed up with water and other chemicals will be fine? Well, it seems fine, then.

Thanks a lot, a I was really worried!!

Hello, everyone

I am thinking of getting some CD4 to make color developing at home. The supplier says it´s toxic and I need minimum a mask with dust filter.

All developers contain toxic chemicals (I reckon color chemicals contain more) but having only worked with B&W developers I really don't know how much caution I shoyuld take with this!!

In your experince, should I need anything else besides that? Gloves, dust mask filter. How should I get rid of disposed chemicals?

Any suggestion is welcomed!!

Thanks

romeo

P.S.

POTA contains 1.5 gm/litre of phenidone, and while I doubt that POTA itself is of much use as a general purpose developer, it could be turned into 3 litres of a phenidone-ascorbate substitute for D-76.

 

I have a suitable formula somewhere, if you're interested.

Thank you, but it's a bit difficult obtaining Phenidone in my country. Thanks anyway

Thanks for the answer. I think this store is selling 'POTA developer' which is Pehenidone base developer, so it's really not phenidone!!

I was also suspicious

Thank you!!

What sort of "phenidone" are you buying?/QUOTE]

Since the only available way to get Phenidone near me (without import issues) is buying 1 litter bottles it seems to be way too much developer so I need to know a few things:

Will it last a some years before expiring?

How should I store it once and everytime I get a portion out of it in order not to get it damaged by oxygen or other agents? Should I place marbles inside the bottle to top it not allowing air inside?

All comments are wellcome!!

tcdp

The 1A lets though more light in the red region, so it might be safe with a dimmer bulb.

I will use a 7w bulb instead of a 15w

Thanks a lot!

Incidentally, I went to look at the Carestream site out of curiosity. It seems all this used to be a Kodak business. The development options, if you''re actually using these films for dental x-rays, are interesting. They offer normal dev. and fix chemicals, or a 'rapid access' set, which they say lets you develop the film in 30 seconds, without leaving the patient's side; there's even a monobath solution. .

Well, I reckon 30 seconds developing would apply for x ray developers, which are stronger and faster than film ones. I am about to develop it with some other single shots to also try to set a parameter between dental iso and film iso (whose relation has not been stated by anyone or at least there is no info on the web).

I started this thread trying to know if there is a signifficant difference among GBX-2 and Kodak 1A filter, some might state a scientific response which is respectfull, but I wonder why some orthochromatic x ray film appoint directly to GBX-2 safelight filter when Kodak 1A is merely used for soft orthochromatic film; orthochromatic is supposed to be non sensitive to red. Well, perhaps the answer is that x ray film is different to photo or paper film.

These are experimental exercise

I am not home now to do various tests but in a few days be sure I'll keep you posted.

Thank you Dustin and everybody!!

I think these are small sheets, each in a light-proof cover, so you can do the x-ray in daylight. If the OP is going to use them for visible-light photography, he has to take the sheet out of its packet. I doubt he has a tank for such small sheets, so I guess it's tray development, like handling prints; so a safelight would be a help. In any case, he may want to judge the progress of development while its going on.

Yeah! That's the idea, see the development in progress!! I would be using only 100 ml of developer for such a tiny little film! Actually I have read on the net that 1A and GBX-2 ares similar so I will be running a test just as Mr alan_marcus suggested or I will just take a pic and simply develope it with the 1A filter lamp.

GBX-2 is here: http://wwwru.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/ti0845/ti0845p.gif

 

Looks like about 600nm, but different in the transmitting region.

Does that mean I can use the 1A filter? Thanks