willscarlett

<p>Thanks! I'll investigate the 55mm</p>

<p>Thanks to all for the info. I think the best way to go may be to go to a camera store and look at different models</p>

What might a tripod head be needed for? Are you referring to a ball head?

<p>I recently got extremely lucky and picked up a Pentax 67 with the 105/2.4 lens in great condition. Someone at work was offloading most of their old film gear, so I was able to pick it up for $100. While the 105/2.4 lens is very nice. I'm interested in possibly picking up something wider as well. In 35mm, I'm more of a 28mm shooter, but also use 20, 24 and 35mm lenses. What's a good wider angle lens for 67 - maybe the 75mm f/4?</p>

<p>I'm at the point where I could use a new tripod. The one I have was passed down to me from one of my dad's friends and while it is very sturdy, it's also incredibly heavy. I've been carrying it around with me as needed for the past 8 years, but I know there's a lot of good stuff out there now.</p> <p>In short, I'm looking for either an aluminum or carbon fiber tripod that has a nice max height, but is portable and lightweight. It needs to be strong enough to support my gear, which ranges from Nikon 35mm SLR bodies to a Pentax 67. One of my friends recommended looking at Benro, Manfrotto, and MeFOTO.</p> <p>What do people here like - any specific model suggestions? I'd say my budget is $400 max.</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>I've tried developing this film in all kinds of Rodinal dilutions and time combinations. The only time I ever got continuous tone out of this film with Rodinal when when the film was shot at ASA 10 on a cloudy day. The Rodinal dilution was 1:200 and I used a standard agitation routine for 14.5 minutes. I haven't tried other developers, but all my attempts under normal sunlight with this film have been way too contrasty.</p>

<p>Possibly - I'll look into that. Is it possible to adjust the scan area in HDRi mode?</p>

<p>I noticed that within the Overview section, each image can be moved left or right, but that seemed to be all. So far, it does seem that each image has to be individually pre-scanned and adjusted before being added to the job list.</p>

<p>I've got my OpticFilm 120 set up and after lots of figuring things out, I'm scanning. However, a few questions, as I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to make the scanning process easier. I'll explain...</p> <p>I'm currently scanning 35mm. I'll put the film in the holder for negatives and insert it into the scanner. The holder loads and within SilverFast, I select "Overview" and then click "Refresh Thumbnails" to get a thumbnail preview of each image. Still in Overview, I then select one image and click "Ok" and I get a pre-scan that I can adjust. After I've adjusted my pre-scan, I again select Overview and click "Add Selection" which adds things to the job list. After I do this for each frame, I then start the batch scanning job.</p> <p>Coming from my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and Nikon's scanning software, within SilverFast, is there a way to do a batch pre-scan and then seamlessly go from negative to negative, make any adjustments and then add it to the job list without having to do everything individually for each separate frame?</p>

<p>Thanks to all for the replies. I still have to set the scanner up, but will report back once I do. Also, I'm coming from using a Nikon CoolScan 9000 and the Nikon scanning software. My CoolScan 9000 broke and can't be fixed :(</p>

<p>Many thanks for the replies. The scanner just arrived yesterday, so I've not yet had time to unpack it and test things out. The people complaining about the bugs mainly comes from customer reviews on B&H's website. I'll update soon with more info.</p> <p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>I just got a Plustek OpticFilm 120 which comes with SilverFast Ai scanning software. I've read about many people who have said the software is very buggy. Is there any better scanning software that people would recommend? I use a Mac Pro with Yosemite.</p>

<p>I've got some High Contrast Copy film that expired in 1972. I did a test once and developed it in Rodinal, 1:300 for 12 minutes, which is what I use for Tech Pan. My test found that using that developer, dilution and time combo, shoot at EI 12 or 6.</p>

<p>Thanks again to all for their input. Jeff, I'm glad it wasn't you too! Eric, I'll keep an eye out. I took a few test shots at f/2.8 and the focus was sharp, but I have yet to give it a rigorous test. Scott - I hope it's ok. If the warranty doesn't cover it, my mom said she'd pay for the repair.</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for the input. The warranty states that it does cover against accidental damage and unintentional abuse, as well as normal and abnormal wear and tear, among others, so hopefully this would be covered if a servicing was needed. If not, my mom said she'd cover it, since she did drop it. The steps look ok, from what I can see - no chipped wood. I guess this lens is built very well! First time she dropped anything tho.</p> <p>A few years ago, I was hiking and trying to get something out of my bag, while holding one of my cameras in the other hand... somehow I dropped my camera and it landed right on the lens. The back sprung open and my film was now ruined. Luckily, I'd only taken a few shots, so not much was lost. As for the camera body, it suffered no damage and neither did the lens. The UV filter absorbed the shock of the fall. It was cracked in a few places, but upon looking thru the viewfinder, none of the cracks were visible. The filter was also jammed on, so I used kept using the camera and when I got home, was able to get the filter off using some tools. None of the cracked glass marks appeared in any of my photos, so I got lucky on that one!</p> <p> </p>

<p>The title of the thread sounds worse than things seem to be, but the fact remains that my mom wanted to be helpful and decided to carry my 85/1.4G up two flights of stairs and give it to me. En route, she dropped the lens on some wooden steps. The lens then decided to bounce down a few steps, tho I'm not sure how many. After telling me what happened, I examined the lens. It seems to be optically and cosmetically fine. I took some pictures with it and the focus still looks to be sharp.</p> <p>I haven't done an extensive test yet, but is there anything I should be looking out for? Thankfully, I am covered by a 3-Year extended warranty from Mack Camera.</p>

<p>Just curious how long the shelf life of Ilford DD-X concentrate is. I used some today to develop a roll of 35mm Acros; the last time I used this developer was June 2013.</p> <p>Anyways, the developer was still in its original bottle, was somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 full and it worked perfectly. Is the DD-X still within its normal life or did I get lucky?</p>