willscarlett

<p>Selective Color to Gray</p><div></div>

<p>Gradation</p><div></div>

<p>Histogram</p><div></div>

<p>Negafix</p><div></div>

<p>Picture Settings</p><div></div>

<p>Navigator</p><div></div>

<p>Densitometer</p><div></div>

<p>Sorry, the following screen shots should help more. Let me know if there are additional settings you need to see. Interestingly enough, I ran a few samples through VueScan. The initial previews in that software were very overexposed, but then were automatically brought back down to very reasonable levels. I'd compare VueScan's auto adjustments to what I get after adjusting SilverFast's scans in Lightroom.</p> <p>Anyways, the screenshots</p><div></div>

<p>Silverfast AI. Below is a screen grab of the workspace</p><div></div>

<p>Charles, thanks for your help. When I get home from work tonight, I'll post a screenshot</p>

<p>Here's another one... my negative is nowhere near as dense as this scan makes it look</p><div></div>

<p>Here's the OpticFilm scan again, but adjusted in Lightroom</p><div></div>

<p>Here's the same shot scanned using the OpticFilm and SilverFast 8</p><div></div>

<p>I used to use a Nikon SuperCool Scan 9000, until it broke. From 2013 until recently, I didn't have a film scanner, but finally replaced it with the Plustek OpticFilm 120, which comes with the SilverFast software. During the time when I didn't have a scanner, I was able to get a friend of mine to do some scanning for me. He has an Epson flatbed, tho I don't remember what kind nor which software he uses.</p> <p>I'm currently having trouble learning the SilverFast 8 software. I'll post pictures below of the same image scanned between the Epson flatbed and OpticFilm, with the OpticFilm image adjusted in lightroom. Basically, it seems like the SilverFast software is really overexposing my negatives. When I look at my negs, they don't look anywhere near as dense as SilverFast is scanning them to be.</p> <p>How can I fix this?</p><div></div>

<p>I also have my parents' old FE and their more recent 8008s. When I first started shooting, I used the 8008s, but have come to prefer the older and more manual cameras. Aside from the FE and 8008, I also have a Nikon F and a Nikon FM, both of which my uncle got from a woman who was getting rid of her husband's gear after he passed away. My uncle then gave them to me. The FM I've used, but I've never used the F, as it needs some repair work. I also have my friend's F5 that will always be his, but he fully converted to digital, so I safeguard it.</p> <p>Out of all of them, I like the FE2, 8008s and F5 the most because they give the most consistent spacing between film frames. The FM, FE and some of the other bodies I have by other brands, can be rather inconsistent.</p>

<p>This camera was once was my grandfather's, so the best option is to have it repaired. I appreciate the suggestions tho :)</p>

<p>Gave those things a shot, but no luck. I'll take it to my local camera shop to see if they can at least get the back open so I can get my film out, but it looks as if I may have to professionally repair this thing</p>

<p>I had my Nikon FE2 in my camera bag today and was using it periodically. At some point, either my bag fell and I didn't notice, something heavy fell against my bag, or maybe my bag was overpacked. In any event, the mechanism on the camera that allows you to open the back of the camera, adjust the ISO and exposure compensation, and turns as the film advanced is now more or less jammed. Part of the section under the film rewind level is on an angle going into the camera, while the other part is angled up.</p> <p>After I noticed that this had happened, I was still able to take a few shots and the film was advancing, but this only lasted for a few frames before the film advance became difficult for one frame and then by the next frame, would not work at all. I tried pressing the button on the bottom of the camera that relieves the tension on the film so it can be rewound and amazingly, with some gentle handling, I was able to rewind the film.</p> <p>It's clear to me that I need to get the camera fixed, but, is there any way to get the camera back open and get my film out? Mind you that the normal level that you push to the left prior to pulling up on the film rewind mechanism will not move.</p>

<p>Did a little searching around... for Rodinal, seems maybe 1:120 at 14 minutes is good?</p> <p>http://photo-analogue.blogspot.com/2014/03/rollei-rpx-25.html</p>

<p>Robert, what is the recommended developer for this film? I'll admit to not reading much about it before trying it. I used Ordinal 1:50 for 11 minutes, as recommended, but the contrast is rather high. Is there another developer, Rollei or not, that can tame it?</p>

<p>Today, I got around to developing a roll of Rollei RPX 25 in 35mm that I'd been shooting on and off since the summer. One thing I'd been wondering about this film was, like Rollei Pan 25, would there be light leakage if it was not loaded in subdued light or total darkness?</p> <p>The answer is yes. The film has some sprocket fogging through frame 7, I don't think it extended into any the photos, tho I'll have a better idea once I scan the film. As compared to Rollei Pan 25, while RPX 25 does still experience some light piping, it is improved over Rollei Pan 25.</p> <p>In any event, I'm going to continue to load all Rollei films in subdued light or total darkness.</p>

<p>I'm a long way off from grandchildren, so for now, I still carry it around. Most recent expedition was a few weeks ago</p>

<p>I think the fisheye is a bit much... I'll have to investigate the 45mm, 55mm and 75mm lenses. Maybe I can even find as good a deal as what I bought the camera for, but doubtful, haha</p>

<p>Yup, I still shoot film, tho for the past 1.5 years, I was pretty much shooting only digital, so I'm glad to be getting back into working film. I took my 6x4.5 camera on a trip to Ithaca in August and have really been trying to shoot more film since then.</p> <p>I'm glad to have been reminded about Unique Photo. I live not far from them, but don't often buy there because I can buy from B&H and not be charged tax, since I live in NJ. But starting my research there could be good, esp since it's easier than going to NYC.</p> <p>I'll let you all know how I make out and attached is a shot of the Bogen beast I currently use.</p><div></div>

I sadly don't have the kind of money to spend on a "Really Right Stuff" tripod. Ok, I do, but I also have a two year old, so the camera budget isn't what it once was. I live in NJ, so going to B&H is easy. I was thinking of the MeFOTO GlobeTrotter - any thoughts? Ian, I'll investigate Benro too. Gitzo and the higher brands are possible if I can sneak it on a gift list and someone else buys it :)