stephenwood

I've done some searching on here and other forums and can't find a definitive

answer on the older posts.

 

I have a Shen-Hao FCL810-A 8x10 which measures about 14x14x5. I've been to a

few sites that make bags specifically for LF cameras, namely photobackpacker for

one, but they can't accommodate this size yet. I hear there is something in the

making.

 

So I'm, looking for a backpack to hold the camera and a couple of lenses minimum

(maybe a corner to stuff the darkcloth). Ultimately a few film holders would be

great as well. Any suggestions of where to look.

Also had a longer one on the bottom of my Mamiya RZ67. I'll be more than happy to send it to you since I don't use it. [the bushing, not the camera :-)]

You can always coat it in Rockland's Liquid Light for traditional enlarging...see freestyle.biz for other brands too.

I had the same issue with film flatness and odd size negs (ie Polaroid T55.) I ended up going to my local frame shop and brought my 8x10 glass tray with me (i scan using Microtek i900) and he fit a piece of museum anti reflective glass on top to hold my film flat. I used a small piece of tape on the glass to ease lifting it out of the holder and it works great!

Bellows extension enters into the equation at about 1/3 stop for each inch of bellows longer than infinity. Long before 1:1 size ratio.

Hit your local art store. I picked up a pack of watercolor postcards for the same purpose and they looked great. They might also come in smooth hot pressed or cold pressed. I'm at work now or I'd give you the paper brand.

I received a sample of this paper at the View Camera convention in KY and my first impressions on the surface texture were very positive. I love the matte surface and it doesn't have as much tooth as the Epson archival matte (or whatever they're calling it now.)

 

I did tests on the samples using an Epson 7800 and matte ink in both color and b/w. I used the recommended settings of watercolor paper and was a little disappointed when it came out of the printer. The images seemed a little flat. I was going to give up but after a dry-down, they looked much better. Shadow detail was good and colors popped off the paper. Still a little more experimenting to do but I just ordered a roll of it for more tests.

 

Also try the warmtone for b/w. Got a full pack of that and it's not as warm as I would like but worth a try maybe.

I bring my Hypo (fixer) to the art school to recycle the silver from it. Yes, b/w paper contains silver. If no art schools in your area, try at the local photo lab.

Oops...sorry. Looks like we're both ready to leave the Sinars in the studio though and trudge into the field.

ok...so it was 31 topics ago but got some good advice.

I just posted this same question a few topics down...i ended up ordering the Shen-Hao 8x10.

Thanks Philippe. I'd seen them before and I think at the View Camera conference but didn't realize they now took the Sinar boards.

Are there any 8x10 field cameras that would take a Sinar/Horseman lens board? I

love my p2 but it's too much of a chore to take it out of the studio and I would

rather not keep removing the lenses from their boards. Thank you.

The RZ lenses use an x-sync. If anything like Nikon, some have an x-sync plug, others you have to buy a adapter for the hot shoe that will accept x-sync cables.

Since Mitsubishi stopped making their b/w RA4 paper, most everybody is just de-saturating as best they can on regular color paper. We stopped using the Mitsubishi paper because over time whether exposed to light or not, it turned pepto pink. This paper could only be found in matte (or pearl) as well.

 

If anybody knows of anyone who still makes b/w RA4 paper with long lasting quality, please let me know. Desaturating takes so much more time to get just right.

I ended up buying a Lightware so I don't have to take mine apart.

Or re-spool the roll into an empty canister and don't tell them it's slide film.

The white tabs don't go through the rollers. You pull them out of the other slot and it pulls the film tab through the rollers. Grasp that and pull. Say "Polaroid" as you are pulling it as to not pull too fast or slow.

 

I also had this issue when I first started. No instructions with the back.

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I have and love the Microtek i900. I scan my 4x5 and 8x10 negs in and print with exceptional detail a 24" print. Glassless scanning for 4x5 and a tray for 8x10.

Even if you have a good meter, you still have to take into effect the bellows extention in the RB/RZs.

I've had the same issues at first with my RZ. There should be a chart on the right side of the rail that extends your bellows. Depending on the lens and how far you are focusing, the chart will tell you how much to adjust the exposure.

 

It's the same with large format cameras. When focused at infinity, there is no compensation. The closer you focus, the less light is hitting the film and you always need to compensate.

I received the email it was shipped over a month ago and still haven't seen it.

I find Silverfast a great software for scanning. I almost always use the HDR option when scanning. It grabs as much detail as possible from the slide/neg and you post process it with the detail you want.

Thanks for the reply.