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leon_yuhanov

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Posts posted by leon_yuhanov

  1. I found a box of X-Ray film in my university dumpster a few years back. It was probbaly 20 years old, but it worked! i used ID-11 to develop it, and whilst it was quite faint at first, the negative came out fine! I still have a few sheets left, still work with long enough expusores.

     

    Speaking of those phosphor sreens, i found some of those as well!

  2. Thanks for all the feedback!

    -Ok so my sensor definiteley needs a clean, that i know

    -im relatively happy with the lighting and refelections

    -the images are goign to be used online on website, shrunk down to small then what you guys have posted, and at that size they look sharp as, but my client is very particular and id like to pump out nice sharp full size shots as well.

    -I did not know abou tthis f16 difraction problem on the 20d, thanks for that link, ill have to use a different lense and a different apperature.

  3. HI,

    I am shooting a set of jewellery. Mostly diamond rings. I am having some diffciculty

    with the sharpness of the images. I have tried my best to shoot with even lighting

    and proper set up. Here is my set up:

     

    -White box(table top studio box) with a white glass plate inside

    -The rings are placed flat on the glass inside the box

    -The box is lit up by 3 x 100w 5000k fluro lights, 1 on the left wall, 1 on the right

    wall and 1 on the back wall

    -the diamons are lit up and made to sparkle with a white LED bulb, comprising of

    15 ultra bright white LED's

    -I am using a Canon 20d with a 50mm f2 manual lens with a small macro adapter

    on the barrel

    -I am shooting at f16 at 1/4s for most of the shots

    -Please see the attatched image, it is my current set up

     

    here are two examples:(3.5mb each please be patient)

    http://www.portadisk.com/leon/rlu/raw/IMG_0063.jpg

    http://www.portadisk.com/leon/rlu/raw/IMG_0067.jpg

     

    Both shots look good when viwing on my monitor byt when i zoom in to 1:1 the

    stone and the general look of the rings do not look very sharp! What am i doing

    wrong? Can anyone give me some tips?

     

    Leon<div>00POk8-43333284.jpg.8352cbb869d81338a09ce548df9cf670.jpg</div>

  4. Hi,

    I have been a photo enthusiast(obssesed) for some years now. I have been

    finding my normal work(IT consulting) rather boring. I am wondering if anyone

    has any tips on how to get into the photo journalism bussines. Id like to go to

    other countries and take photos of events abroad.

     

    Leon

  5. I have recently got a surprise in the mail, when i bought a cheap flash for a

    friend on ebay, i got these red, green and blue flashhead filters. I have taken

    some shots to test hem with my film camera havnt developed yet though. I only

    use b&w with film, juist wondering what the different filter colors woul dow

    for B&W images?

     

    Any ideas or sugestions, i have tried taking testing them with a DSLR but the

    results when greyscaled are i assume not the same as film..

     

    Leon

  6. I buy my lucky film from a guy on ebay, he ships direct from taiwan:

     

    his name is Isac

     

    http://cgi6.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=isaac.chen&completed=0&sort=3&since=-1

     

    this is a list of all stuff he sels, he can get an ulimited ammount for close to $1.50AU a roll sometimes less.

     

    I get 10 for $22au if you get more its cheaper.

     

    He hasnt run out of stock! i got 30 rolls just the other week, of 120.

     

    He aslo sells Shanghai, which is pretty much the same.

     

    Leon

  7. I use lucky extencively in my 645. I use mostly 100 and 400 iso Lucky, 100 iso Shanghai brand and i have used TMAX. The lucky brand stuff is just as good as TMAX but harder to load. The film is a bit different in thickness. APpart from that the quality of the pictures themselves is same as TMAX(TMY).

     

    Lucky Good points:

    Cheap, plentifull, same as TMY

     

    Lucky Bad points:

    Curls more then TMY after development, so you have to keep it flat, the sticker at the end of teh roll does not stick properly(thats where kodak puts all the money the .0002 cents of extra glue)

     

    Leon

  8. if you have the metered prism like on mine, looking through the viewfinder, turn the LEFT exposure knob to the the (0) positon( i think its next to the B position, then turn the RIGHT exposure know on the prism to any speed, then click the white button near the front of the right hand side of the prism.

     

    also check the ISO setting is corect.

     

    I had this problem when i was buying my 645. The girl at the shop thought it was dodgy, but the tech guy just said "u forgot to flick the knob"

     

    Leon

  9. I like these films too, ive bought heaps of it from ebay from a bloke in taiwan. I have not found any problems wuith this curling that eveyrone is talkign about. I develop and print myself and use ID11 and other Ilford chemicals. I have only tried the 100 and 400ISO 120 films not the 35mm films. I use TMAX-400 35mm and get similar results. Its a good amateur film, cheap realiable and plenty.

     

    one thing that does bug me is the seal strip at at the end of the roll comes of the roll when you unload the camera, it has goten stuck in the loaded heaps of times. my poor mamiya.

     

    Leon

  10. Looks like lense flare to me, or maybe a flash reflection or reflection from the light source. I have recently begun using Lucky film, i have tried the 100iso 120 rolls, for their unbeatable price of $33au for 10, the quality is great! I dont see any of this cursling everyone is talking about and the output is very much like tmax. I use tmax in my 35(tmy-400) and have been using tmax(tmy-400) 120 in my 645, and this lucky stuff seems to work just like it. Even down to the slighly pinky aperance of the film after developping. Theres a guy on ebay called Isacc tahts selling this film directly, its pretty cheap:

     

    10 x 400iso 120 rolls for $29AU delivered!

    10 x 100iso 120 rolls for $33AU delivered!

     

    compared to the best price i can get here for tmax:

    5 x 400iso 120 rolls KODAK TMY400 @ $33AU! i mean less then half price!

     

    Leon

  11. I have the m645 and a sekor 70mm lense. I was goign to buy a set of extension tube sbut the $300 or so dollar price tag was a bit rediculous for a few pieces of holow tubbing.

     

    I use CLose up Adapter Rings that attatch to the front of the lense like a filter, i got a set from ebay for about $40usd, it came with 3 58mm rings(filter thread is 58mm) there was a 1,2 and 4 diopiter and they work quite well.

     

    i ahve tested these verses using extension tubes on my EOS and teh results are much the same. Im not a pro but i thin these are much cheaper and more common sense.

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=30045&item=7630458086

     

    thats the link to the ones i bought, im sure teh seller has similar ones for your lense type.

     

    Leon

  12. Does anyone know of any lense converters that enable you to use a M42 Thread

    lense on a Mamiya 645?

     

    I have been scouring ebay and have foudn nothing. The closest thing was a Kiev

    mount to Mamiya.

     

    Any ideas?? Manufacturers link would be great!

     

    Thanks

    Leon

  13. Hi,

    I have recently purchased a Mamyia m645 Medium Format Camera with a 70mm Sekor

    C Lense. I noticed that the lense has a X terminal for a flash. I am also told

    that this camera can snc up to 1/500?? The mnual says it will sync to 1/60 and

    slower speeds when using the cameras X terminal but says nothign abotu the

    lense.

     

    If nayone has a manual for this lense, can you please send it to me? Im happy

    to pay for a reprint. Iether way if someone has any idea how to sync the camera

    and lense to faster then 1/60th speeds let me know!

     

    Thanks

    Leon

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