victor_ho2

Lauren:

 

I can't upload the crop I made in Photoshop. If you tell me how to upload...

 

The photo can be easily improved by tilting the cropping frame and getting the offending shoulder out of the image. It only took a few seconds. I'm assuming the original is focused and detailed enough to want to save.

Ellis

 

I have Lightroom and so far it has promise.

Call me sentimental but I like Kodak's entry in the game.

 

http://www.kodakgallery.com

 

It's been really good for me to upload and share photo albums with the family. Long live the yellow film box God.

Wayne

 

I share your concerns. I've tried iphoto intermittently but the usual way that Apple stores files in a hierarchal file system is not so simple with iphoto. I have tried Lightroom and am not yet sure this is a long term solution for me. For the mac, there's Portfolio and Cumulus. I haven't been thrilled about the metadata portability.

 

At the end of the day iphoto is free and is still a good program but more for lower volume users. I liken it as Elements to Photoshop but less sophisticated.

Not for nothing, but have you tried to put the flash on the camera and take some test shots. It is dgital and a few wasted shots can't be harder than asking here.

 

The flash will work for sure but is it what you want? There are some give backs as this flash was not designed for compatibility with the D200. On ebay the price of a used SB26 can't be much. You might just want to keep it around just in case ...

I've seen the forts and the ferry but didn't put it together. It's on my list to check.

 

In Portland today the cherry blossoms have peaked and the winds have blown most of the petals to the ground. The other - forsythia, daffodils, and rhododendrons are still brilliant. Also the waters raging in the rivers have subsided after the last big rain.

 

I'm told an old revolutionary war ship wreck is now exposed on the 'short sands' beach near to the Neddick light 'long sands.' This wreck was uncovered in the recent beach erosion from the wicked Nor'easter. Then the sands cover it again until the next big storm comes along. It's a rumor so far. I am trying to check this one out.

Anthony, I have CS not CS2 or CS3 yet. The file info in CS does not give actuations. Or else I'm missing it. Maybe I need CS2?

To stop the action you need to set a shutter speed of 1/250 or more ideally. Depending on the amount of light in the theatre you may need to adjust the ISO. I believe you can set the ISO to auto and it will compensate for low light. The f stop will be set automatically if you use 'S' shutter priority. Don't forget to pan the action but I guess there won't be much linear motion if it's only the hips moving. A slower shutter speed will result in some motion blur which may be quite acceptable as long as the face/eyes are in focus. You should not hesitate to shoot a lot and be prepared to discard many blurred frames.

I use a mac and don't want to load a PC program to find out. I've been using a simple data base to keep track of shots taken. Every time you download your card. Run the database program and record the number of shots. I go one step further and put in the essential data as location, key words, subjects, and names for later reference. It has helped me find photos years later. The data base or simple spread sheet will easily do sum total so that you have your shutter actuations as a running total.

So it's spring in Maine. If you're close enough, go to York and follow the road

to Kittery. Cross over the bridge to Portsmouth, New Hampshire. The area's full

of picture opportunity. York is in bloom with forsythia, dandelions, cherry

blossoms, daffodils and so forth. Exploring the road brings you to small fishing

harbors with lobster boats. Houses are offset by blooming bushes and daffodils.

The lighthouses beckon - Portsmouth Harbor lighthouse, Cape Neddick light. There

is much seasonal color that allows for exceptional shots.

Lightroom actually asks where the photos went. When you correctly identify the location of one picture, the remaining photos in the folder are updated painlessly. Ask iphoto or some of the other image albums to do that!

 

To be sure this will work, take a picture folder and move it to another location without deleting. This should trigger Lightroom to inquire about where the photo is located. There will also be a '?' in the photo that doesn't have a pathway. Double clicking on the '?' photo will cause a dialog to appear asking to identify the pathway of the photo.

Like a deer in the headlights....

 

It always happens that someone posts - 'gee, I didn't know this merchant was a bad player - bait and switch - on and on ....' Wouldn't make so much more sense to direct forum readers to a list of bad sellers and then add to or modify the list as readers find other dishonest merchants. Then there would be a reference list one could check first.

In low light you'll have to expect some shots will be blurred because of motion. I assume flash is not possible. Let the ISO ride on auto so that it will set lower than 1600 if possible. Then use a shutter speed of 1/125 or even better 1/250. Follow the motion and pan the action. Anticipate the moment and fire the shutter during a pause in the action. Under low light noise is something to tolerate. It's better than no photo at all.

Judging from the long list of comments, it's a slow news day. Anyone, who gives false information some of the time, needs to be suspect all of the time. That said, I have never been able to bend my mind around the conundrum of figuring out when he's telling the truth.

 

Every lie should have some element of truth to be successful. It seems that some sage members have figured this out and have passed this along to all who read here. Whatever you do from here is up to you. Me, I thank the veteran contributors for telling me about KR before I got tripped up.

Generally, to uninstall on a mac is simple. Drag the program folder to the trash and empty. Macros are stored in that folder so if you want them saved then you must place them in the new CS3 folder manually or save the macros to the new location. Unless you're pressed for disk space save both programs for a while until you're sure CS3 is working. There are also preference files stored in the system library and so forth but they don't add up to much memory space.

I've been photographing with Nikon equipment for more than 25 years and have yet to have a camera fail - film or digital. I know many others have commented on the need for a backup body. But if it's about light weight then I just don't see the need for a second body unless it's your living. Carry whatever you think you'll absolutely use. After a while you'll find that you carried that extra wide lens and shot only two frames. Then you need to decide if the weight is worth that one picture.

Dave - Having a 7 rating on photo.net won't pay the bills or get you your next job. There are some pretty vicious comments out there from folks who can't stand that their photos don't rate 6 or 7. It's enough to discourage anyone from rating low by intimidation. Those comments, I should add, are from some pretty mediocre photographers. Anonymous rating allows you to work in peace without harrassment. [see threads enraged at anonymous ratings]. Don't worry you seem to be doing the right thing.

The background - I want to upgrade to the D200 but I don't want to purchase a

camera soon to be replaced. After posting a question to the forum, I was

rejected by an automated message. The message indicated that it was far better

to avoid speculation and all the false rumors it could generate about Nikon's

possible plans. Sensible!

 

A google search proved correct in your assumption. So I fired off this email to

the administrators in appreciation:

 

"I tried to inquire about rumors of a possible upgrade to the D200. Your automated

response was very much appreciated. Considering all the wars on the rating system

of late, I fully agree with the position of the forum adminstrators. Just thought

I'd forward a pat on the back. You guys do a good job."

 

For all gripes and fairly strong opinions, I was pleasantly surprised to find

that there really are some hard working folks with sensible thought making this

forum go as well as it does. Nice - I was posting this to the "casual

conversations" category and was redirected to "feedback." Thank you. We're 'not

in Kansas anymore, Dorothy.'

F3X Domke has always worked for me. Is yours a smaller volume bag?

 

F3X - With the pockets there's room for two lenses, two bodies, flash, Quantum battery, batteries, cards, filters. I get a lot into this one. Usually I've got one body with zoom lens, long or short, and two other lenses - wide and whichever lens is not on the camera. No problems. But, everyone has a different life style. I especially like to have easy access to the gear. The Domke is not insulated and padded like crazy but the heavy canvas has protected me from major cosmetic blemishes.

Thanks Jordan. Yeah, Kelby has a chosen wit. But the facts were pretty good in his other books. Thanks for your info. I missed the April 20 thread on this issue. If they have it I'll check Evening's book. The google search for books already has more than a half dozen publications out there. I'm just trying to narrow the search.

Any suggestions for books regarding Adobe Lightroom? I was thinking of Scott

Kelby and his new book on this topic.

I feel your pain ... over the many years that I have sought the perfect bag, I have accumulated many that are not much used now. The one bag I have worn well to threadbare are the Domke bags. F3X for me has carried gear for day trips and the larger model has carried all the extras. With digital I carry less - no film.

I've enjoyed Scott Kelby in the past. He has a new Lightroom book out that's I'm checking out tomorrow. His CS books were helpful beyond the basics.

A custom lab -

 

You need to be sure about your exposure error. If you are not sure then a clip test is definitely indicated. Otherwise you can instruct the lab on how much under or over exposed you were. This means that you need a custom lab where they will in fact develop your film to exact time. The first developer is custom timed to your ASA/ISO rating. All else being equal it's the same as one would manipulate black and white. In this case there are more steps and for E6 this is first developer and color developer. Only the first is manipulated to compensate for ASA.

 

This will give you the optimum results. Keep in mind that the over or under will result in some give backs and there may be more noise/grain etc. But you will fare better than 'oh well, I'll fix that in photoshop.'

Once again into the fray ... Great! If ratings are to find pics of the week... eliminate all ratings below 4. Noone's ego need be bruised... they just weren't chosen for 'pic of the week.' And then show no ratings on the site, just comments. If your photo get no comments then so be it and once again no bruised egos. If learning be from commentary, then ratings are unnecessary because they don't teach. If you just want to look, then don't comment. And if the photo doesn't rate then you shouldn't. How about just a voting system ... thumbs up and thumbs down. A popularity test would also get you to the same point. Of course, you'd all be on the honor system to vote only once.