victor_ho2

<p> The lighting in an OR is bright and most likely fluorescent. The operating spotlights used to focus on the operative field can be very bright relative to the room light. This is mostly tungsten. That said, I find that there is some color cast but mostly auto white balance compensates on the fly. I have lately used the Canon G11 and it gives me operative photos at settings f4 and 1/160. I have used the Nikon D200 f6.3 and 1/125 again on auto. In the operating room in general I have a shot of my assistant at f5.3 1/80 ISO 140 and 95mm focal length on the zoom. The spots tend to give you bright spots and light falls off rapidly from the illuminated field. It would probably be best to zoom in on the action closely rather than wide angle as the exposure will be mostly over exposed for the surrounding less bright area. You could use flash but this might be distracting to the operating team.<br>

You need to check with the OR team as to whether they will allow a camera during the delivery. I should think that your husband will be too excited with the birth to really be the one to photograph the event. There is plenty of time after your baby is cleaned up to get the shots that you will eventually want to show everyone including your newborn. And yes, these days I have a camera available all the time for operative photos. Either I recruit a member of the team or else I put on an extra pair of sterile gloves and get the shots myself. With the ability to review on the spot, you can check exposure and focus so that there is very little regret during editing.<br>

Birthing is not terribly photogenic. Heaven knows my family has laughed over the crazy pictures I have taken in the past. And, I can even picture you directing the shoot as the obstetrician works. Don't. Still, I have some doubt as to how intimate you want the pictures to get concerning the anatomy involved. I'm thinking that the C-section will mostly be a red operative field and then the baby's head. By and large it might be a fairly messy operative field that most folks would not save the pictures as keepsakes.<br>

Still keeping the shots tight or cropping in post process will make the best overall photos. If your husband is allowed to photograph he will probably have a chance to photograph away from the operative field. This might mean he is 6-8 ft away. In that case your choice of a wide angle lens is probably wrong. I don't think your husband will be close enough in the operating room to utilize the wide angle. I would estimate that somewhere around 100mm would work. The Canon 55-250 would likely be the best choice. There is definitely enough light that an f2.8 lens is unnecessary.<br>

As others have posted, the best shots are really after the birth when your newborn has been wrapped up and cleaned up for his/her intro. Congratulations on your happy event.</p>

<p>Manuel<br>

If you are able, scout out the location beforehand. At 8PM, it's pretty dark. There will be lots of shade and the buildings will cover the sunset. Your best bet is along the new Hudson Park on the far west side. There you will have lots of sunset light as the sun sets across the Hudson River. Central Park will still have plenty of light in the afternoon. Try the stone bridge in the southeast part of the park. And then the boat pond is nice. The fountain near the boat house is good, but it was under construction the last time I was there several weeks ago. This pond also has a great white bridge as well.</p>

<p>Check with Canon online. They have a mail in repair service. As I recall it was about $148 flat to evaluate and service. I got an old G2 working... sentimental.</p>

<p>In Photoshop CS3 or Bridge CS3: File:File Info:Advanced:http//ns.adobe.com/exif/1.0/aux/<br>

<br /> Click on the last arrow to see drop down that will show shutter clicks on last line.<br /> This has been posted elsewhere on this forum. I found it useful. Today, I couldn't find it in Photoshop for some reason and got the number in Bridge.</p>

<p>There is a ferry that takes you across the river to the Mardi Gras parade float storage facility. It is open to tourists. They store all the floats and assemble/repair from year to year. Look it up and go if you have time. It's got plenty of photo ops.</p>

<p> You have five lighthouses that can be seen in Portland and South Portland. Access is easy by car. You will be able to see Ram Island Ledge light but not get close.<br>

When you get to Fort Williams Park, you will find easy accessible parking. You can walk around the lighthouse grounds and there are lots of great vantage points. To your right is a chain link fence running south. Look down and there is a small pool that when the wind is calm will give you a great reflection of the lighthouse. Everyone walks up and shoots the lighthouse never catching the best shot.<br>

To the south there is Cape Elizabeth light. When you get there there is a lighthouse on the hill which everyone photographs. There is a second lighthouse on the hill up a small road close by. This is an old site not in use and private, but still one to photograph.<br>

To the north of the Head Light is the Portland Breakwater light which you can see looking north toward the harbor. You can easily drive there and walk right out on the breakwater to the light.<br>

Just to the north of this light is a small parking lot and this has the Portland bug light.<br>

Drive on up the hill from Fore St to the Eastern Promenade. This is a big hill which will give you vantage over the harbor. Parking is easy. You will see sailboats and the ferries which ply back and forth in the harbor. <br>

The ferry terminal runs to the islands in the harbor. If you have time you can take a day trip to these islands on the ferry. To the right of the ferry terminal are many fine restaurants. Or for the best sandwich, fries, and milkshake around, go to Duck Fat.<br>

Nubble light much further to the south is another classic lighthouse. You should go if it's not too far out of your way.</p>

 

<p>Bill<br>

Look in the mirror and smile or take a pose you like. Hold to your pose. Step in front of your digital camera and snap shots until your facial memory can hold the same mirror pose you practiced. I started doing this when my digital camera lacked any family members who would pose in front of it. I used the technique for lighting and posing, bounce flash and all sorts of practice. You'll be surprised to find that your best smile may feel awkward, but will otherwise photograph well and the mirror will help you with feedback. My own smile is good enough to pass muster.</p>

<p>In Photoshop CS3: File:File Info:Advanced:http//ns.adobe.com/exif/1.0/aux/<br>

Click on the last arrow to see drop down that will show shutter clicks on last line.<br>

This has been posted elsewhere on this forum. I found it useful.</p>

<p>http://www.phototech.com/<br>

They will take mail in. Excellent for all my previous repair of Nikon camera and lenses.</p>

<p>Here's the product specs and the operating manual.<br>

http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/technology/archives/scanner/scoolscan_4000/index.htm<br>

http://support.nikontech.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13948/session/L2F2LzEvc2lkL2RCUjhnRVVq#Anchor-2821<br>

From your description the tool palette under view comes up and is grey. Under tools you should see the Nikon 4000 scanner. If this window doesn't show up then you are not connected. Your computer is not seeing the scanner. Your system OS X software and computer hardware should run with the current Nikon scan software based on what you've described and installed.<br>

1. check the cable. do you have the right one?<br>

2. unplug the cable and insert again.<br>

3. turn off the scanner<br>

4. close the program and restart the scan software.<br>

5. the ready light should not or should stop blinking before you will see the needed Nikon 4000 scanner window. You scan from this window. The palette is for adjustments.<br>

Good luck. The scanner is really wonderful when it works.</p>

 

<p>Joanne<br>

I wanted to shoot the 4th of July fireworks and my good sturdy tripod is far away. I didn't want to spend and purchase another for this event. So... I shopped cheap. Where I am presently in Maine, Walmart and Best Buy are the nearest available retailers. Walmart, internet shows many tripods. In store, one and only one, was available - Targa, computer case maker as far as I know. My price point, though, $25. It had three way pan, easy close/extend legs, and even a level. Cheap, and I got my money's worth, the plastic knob was broken right out of the box. I shot fireworks - 7/3 was foggy and rainy, so much so that all I got was a glow in the dark. On 7/4, I caught the Grucci light show in Portland. Spectacular as it was, it was also Grucci's first time in Maine. They were still releasing burst of unexploded ordinance 10 minutes after the show was done. Now the ethical dilemma, return the tripod with the defective broken knob?<br>

Best Buy has tripods in the $32 - $100 range. As one would expect there are sacrifices one must accept at the lower price. But, the platform will suffice. Compensate by shooting several frames. Use a faster shutter speed. Stop down to the optimum f stop. You can brace the tripod or add weight to the center post and this will add some stability. Don't extend to full height, less instability. Fire the shutter with the remote.<br>

That said, I shot the fireworks at about half height, no weights, exposure ranging from 3-8 seconds at f11-f20. I got some reasonable images.<br>

In the low price range the features are pretty much the same. The extension lock for the legs should be sturdy and not allow the tripod to collapse. Lean on the legs when they are extended and the lock should hold. One of Best Buy's tripods would not lock properly and hold when locked. A level is nice but not crucial - a bubble to let you know the tripod is level. The head will usually have a removable plate to attach to your camera for quick release, good feature. The head will also rotate, elevate/depress, and allow for vertical camera position. The ease will depend on the head and in the low price range will be pretty basic and a take a bit of fiddle. When the financial picture brightens then you can upgrade.<br>

$32 was really low cost. In the $60 range Best Buy had some reasonable looking tripods. Just keep expectation reasonable. By the way my older tripods are in use as light stands for my old flashes when I use the commander flash mode on my camera. Good luck in your search.</p>

<p>The manual somewhere does state to turn off the camera when changing lenses. That said, I have mostly done so. As any habit, turning the camera off has become a natural motion as I switch glass. And when I forget which is not infrequent, the sky does not fall. In fact there are no consequences I've noted. Somewhere I believe it may also say that there is an affect on VR setting of the lens. I assume this is fixed with a quick off and then on of the camera again. In any case it has not affected my shooting.</p>

<p>Patriot's Day: Battle Road. Lexington and Concord. The above suggestion underplays the fun. There are period costumes and lots of musket and cannon fire. The battle is protracted over a long trail that runs through the national park culminating in a battle in town late in the afternoon. You need to get the schedule from the websites:<br>

http://www.bostoncentral.com/events/holiday/p1158.php<br>

http://www.battleroad.org/<br>

I got there late last year without much expectation. There were events that ran all day from Minuteman Park and Battle Road to a battle in Lexington in the afternoon. Great photo ops everywhere you look. This was really fun and very different from anything I've attended before.</p>

<p>I'm glad I referenced the news article. At first I thought 'harnesses' and then thought 'deviant.' Still one could understand that someone on the ground would have 'grounds' :) to believe that the children were endangered. I don't condone the police action if true.</p>

<p>willy<br>

If you have the desire, then do it. There's a bit of logistical planning that's needed. I have developed black and white necgatives and then went to color slide film. The temperature for color slide is more critical but I did it for years in a bathroom sink and used the bathtub as a large water bath. The larger the volume, the less the temperature will vary. Also a good thermometer was very helpful. There's cost of containers, timer, and developing tank. The chemicals are not to expensive but they do have a limited shelf life. At the end of the day machine processing is more accurate. Cost per roll of film to develop over time would be less. The process is fun in it's own way. Color film has fewer steps than slides so it's not as hard, but that's relative. If you try it then develop a roll that you can sacrifice if all goes wrong. Most of all have a good time. Resources are darkroom books for the setup and equipment. Each developing kit has a set of instructions as to time and temperature and quantity for the process. It will tell you the basics. Kodak made kits for slides but black and white was individual chemical packets that you would need to mix. A background in a chemistry lab would be helpful for handling chemicals and lab equipment. Try black and white first. Good luck.</p>

<p>Mark<br>

My experience is in a Bell 47 'Mash' helicopter, that a former American Airlines pilot flies. Yes, there's plenty of vibration. I have shot with and without doors. The pilot will have some experience in helping to get the shot you want. You'll all have headphones and a mic. Keep in mind the light and direction of the sun. He can also compensate by flying lower or closer. Haze is a factor as the distance increases. I've not had occasion to use a gyro stabilizer and don't think it's necessary. Shutter speed is important. I've gotten away with as low as 1/500. Above 1/1000 you're pretty safe. On a bright day I've used 1/4000 but that's probably overkill. Polarizing filters will also be helpful. As for lenses, I have Nikon and have been using everything from 18-200 to 80-400. Wide angle seems to give the special feel of being in the air. Telephoto will give you a different perspective but lens shake will be more of a problem. Still, I shot the NYC marathon over the Verrazano Bridge at full 400mm and got very good shots of the runners. If you have two bodies then I would put 17-40 and 100-400 lenses on and fire away. Keep your gear to what you need to shoot. Have fresh batteries in the camera. I've changed lenses on the fly, literally. You just need to have everything right at hand. The ride is pretty smooth except when the pilot is banking a turn. I use a Domke bag with the strap firmly held down by my leg. Enjoy!</p>

Canon's website will help you to send the camera in for repair. My G3, for sentimental reasons, was fixed for flat rate $147. Steep but as I said - sentimental... birthday gift from wife. The problem with the camera was LCD. The camera worked and took shots but the LCD was black. It happened after the camera went to a party with my wife. After that the LCD was dead. No history of drop or otherwise. Of course, there were no witnesses.

 

The camera's back and works great.

B&H is a large camera store but it doesn't have large selection of books. I would't go out of my way unless you happen to be there for the camera equipment.

 

What photography books do you seek? Fine art or technique? Old or new. Digital or film?

 

Strand Books has a location downtown near the South Street Seaport. Their books are secondhand mostly. They have an eclectic selection of mostly art and collections. There are some technique books. Mostly it's luck as to what you'll find, much like in an antique store.

 

Barnes and Noble has locations all around the city and they all have a selection of photography books. Borders books is another chain. They carry new titles that you will see on Amazon. The advantage is being able to browse the books at your leisure before purchase. A large Barnes and Noble store is at Lincoln Center.

Try this site for a live picture of the Mt Katahdin area. Not much to tell from the website but it's better than nothing.

 

http://www.katahdincam.com/

Maine - Lewiston/Auburn to Portland. This past weekend there was very little wind despite the hurricane in the area. There were few waves breaking over the at the Portland Headlight. Fall color right now is very deceiving. The hills are still green. Driving around on the back country roads, the colors hit peak overnight in some areas. The foliage along the roads is great. Watch for color along streams, rivers, and small ponds that run along the back country roads.

 

The I 95 corridor from Portland to Lewiston is in some places awesome. There's still a lot of green in the hills. I got up to Boothbay Harbor. US 1 has a lot of color now. Boothbay is still pretty green.

 

I've returned several times to the same spot on a pond during the past week. The trees turned red and the leaves fell in the course of 5 days, a very surprising turn around. Yesterday, there was no wind and light fog rolling in at dusk. Good color and perfect reflections, what more can you ask? I met another photographer with a tripod and the same idea.

 

I'd love to hear a report on Bar Harbor or Baxter Park and Mt Katahdin.<div></div>

Nic

http://www.rentglass.com/

 

It's good and reliable. I rented 18-200 Nikon when mine was down for repair. They send it secured with return packaging. You can extend the rental easily. The lens was in great condition. I found them by reference from another forum thread. Good luck.

Steven

Before I had a darkroom, I used a bathroom as my processing lab for E6. It's been a while but the principles would be the same. Water loses temp rather slowly. A larger body of water will get cooler more slowly. I used the bath tub filled to the point where the 2 liter E6 bottles would just about float. The temp of the water was measured with a lab grade [ in tenths] thermometer and i kept the temp at about 3 degrees C above the process temp. This kept the chemicals at about the right temp. You'll need to compensate for room temp etc. I checked the temp of the bath regularly but need to adjust about once every hour. This is crude but all my E6 was developed without losing a roll.

 

By the way, to keep the developing tank - stainless steel - at temp, I used the sink to maintain a constant water temp bath. Smaller volume of water in the sink meant more fine tuning of temp.

I agree. Put the CF card in a reader and use your computer to check if there is another folder in which the files got placed. When you go over number 9999 image, the camera creates a new folder starting with image number 0001 again. When you go to review, you may not see the first folder. It's likely that the images don't need to be rescued since you saw them there while you were shooting. Good luck.

Alex:

Operating room photos fall in two broad categories. The overall room and the surgeon is one issue sure to be a lighting nightmare. The other is the operative field. Most operating rooms start with fluorescent lighting. The operating spotlights are intense and light the operative field. They are usually incandescent. Finally surgeons more and more wear headlights of one halogen mix or other that casts another color. The bright lights will easily be beyond the dynamic range of any film or digital camera. That said, shoot with a regular flash to light the room suffiently. The yellow cast of spotlights is not bad and will accent the operation. Shooting without flash in natural light will get some interesting mood shots.

 

The operative field is usally illuminated sufficiently to shoot without flash and is incandescent. Unfortunately most surgical fields are red and there is little to distinguish and contrast the anatomical structures. Certain microscopic operations lend themselves to excellent anatomy demonstrations. Mostly the operative field is pretty boring to photograph. Distance is the main consideration. A close focus, macro lens 50mm will get you too close to the field. 100mm is adequate. I have simply used an 18-200mm Nikon zoom to frame the field. Operative fields can be messy [bloody]. That is distracting to say nothing of bothering civilians. Ring flash or no, I just used the pop up flash on the camera and the lighting has been adequate combined with ambient spotlights.

 

There is no need to sterilize your camera. That was hilarious to read. You will hold the camera and it will not touch the sterile field. Just use a rubber band to contain the strap so it doesn't swing down and touch the field inadvertently.

 

Lastly, it has been my observation that most OR photographs are too wide. So be sure to get in a little closer. Try to stay focused on the subject of interest. Operating rooms are more casual than you anticipate. Just let them know you don't know what you're doing in a sterile field environment and someone will gladly direct you and prevent any inadvertent contamination. Good luck.

Page 281 of the D300 manual states that on demand grid lines will show in the viewfinder or in live view on the monitor.

 

The D300 manual can also be downloaded in pdf form.