valery_yakushev1

<p>Cody,<br>

Some advices, based on personal experience.<br>

1) preferably use Russian (Soviet) rangefinder with Russian (Soviet) glass, unless you use 20mm or wider lens.<br>

2) a good bet is to have either Zorki-1 (simply 'Zorki') or Zorki-C with collapsible Industar-22 - this is bottom loaded like Barnack Leicas, or Zorki-3, Zorki-3M, Zorki-4 with either early Jupiter-8, or Jupiter-3 (all quoted lenses are 50mm). You can use 'Barnack' Zorki's with J-8 and J-3, too, if you like. Some people do. Skip Zorki-5 and Zorki-6.<br>

3) buy either with CLA, or with option to return back, or if you have good technician handy, you can take a risk and buy off the auction site or elsewhere.<br>

4) Kiev cameras are not advised, unless your technician gives you green light with them (these are more complicated mechanically, more difficult to repair and service).<br>

You can read about Kievs here: http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/zconrfKiev.htm<br>

note the paragraph <strong>Huge Quality Drop </strong><br>

5) FEDs are a matter of taste. I had FED-2 for a year, did not like the feel, sold it. Now have four Zorki bodies, much nicer. But some folks just love FED-2 and FED-3.<br>

Zorki and the M39 glass quoted above for Zorki were made in Krasnogorsk, near Moscow, while FED was made in Kharkov (Ukraine) and Kievs were made in Kiev, also Ukraine.<br>

I also think that, unless you only start to play with rangefinders, it's better to use it as a 'second' camera, and use something more reliable for critical work. For example, Russian glass can be poor if you shoot something with the light source in your frame, while Zeiss or Letz stand it just fine. I, for example, have Leica M3 and Contax G2, but Zorkis are fun to use and they do not cost too much, so you can just take the camera with you anywhere. Zorki-1 with Industar-22 fits in most pockets.</p>

<p>Steve, excellent photograph! very rarely seen a print quality like this nowadays. do not sell it, keep :-)</p>

<p>Thank you very much, Ray, for your informative answer! Looking forward to see pictures taken with these lenses before and after CLA.</p>

<p>Ray, thank you for interesting story. I'm quite impressed by the scale of your quest for perfect vintage image - you've sent six cameras for CLA and two lenses in one lot!<br>

If you know what Gus did to Jupiter-3, could you please let us know. Did he do re-coating as well? If you have shots made by Jupiter-3 after service at 1.5, would it be possible to post a couple of samples, please, to this forum, or give a link to the site where it's possible to see them?<br>

I doubt Jupiter-3 will beat Summicron rigid, their design is quite different, Jupiter-3 is a Sonnar clone, while Summicron Rigid is a kind of Planar design, I think. Sonnars give softer, warmer images. These two lenses are not in direct competion, IMHO.</p>

<p>I suggest to clean 9 contacts on the body and on the lens with some neutral cleaner (I use isopropyl diluted with distilled water 7:3), or clean alcohol (vodka and other drinks and NOT clean alcohol, they have some stuff in).</p>

<p>R.I.P., Al.<br>

My deep condolences to his relatives and close friends.</p>

<p>Do not kling onto 'Zeiss design' -- even though Jup 12 is based on Biogon scheme, it is very weak in flare, means you should always use a hood or likewise (hat or palm). If the light is evenly diffused, and there is no need for hood, this lens can produce beautiful photographs. Yes, Jup 12 will give the pictures none of the modern design will reach (and they do not intent to), it will give a 'retro' style photo if you are aimed at it.<br>

you can check the photos made by both lenses via Google images search, there are plenty.</p>

<p>Just bought six CR-2 batteries, before echange rate will make them cost 50% more due to the current and further Ruble collapse, should buy 4-6 more soon to keep my G2 going for the next 3-4 years.<br>

I experienced fast batteries exhaustion when I started to use G2 in 1998, when I had no experience to shoot with the camera -- I half-pressed shutter to focus, then depressed it back, and did it many times for every single shot, it gave lots of work for lenses mechanism, in particular when I shot with 90mm, and batteries were dead quickly.<br>

Later on, I learned how to shoot correctly, and now the batteries last for very long time.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>As for the Leica shot in the last post, that is an amazing shot, and kind of proves my point. ; )</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, I overlooked that it was written 'Leica MP' in bold letters above the photo...</p>

<p>but this one (in the end of this thread):<br>

http://www.photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00FmoV<br>

is focussed in the center of the shot! probably, it was M3.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Sp, I think it would be more useful if he posted a scan of a contact sheet made with the G body, you know, the one where 36 out-of-focus people are looking at him because of the noise his camera made.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>here you go:<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/5181417<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/5181415<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/5181414</p>

<p>that's true, these photographs are not in focus.</p>

<p>Darius, below please find a piece you may find useful for your focussing needs, I saved it on my computer 5 years ago (I deleted 1st part of e-mail address of the author to save her from spam):<br>

==========<br>

Meryl Arbing (xxxxxxx@sympatico.ca) <br /> Заголовок:Re: Feeling uneasy about Contax G<br /> Группы новостей:rec.photo.equipment.35mm <br /> I am not sure which G2 you were using but on mine I manually focus all the<br /> time. When I set the camera to manual focus, a focus scale appears in the<br /> viewfinder which tells me exactly whether I am in focus; focusing behind the<br /> subject or in front of the subject. I know exactly which direction to turn<br /> the focus wheel and when I have locked on. I don't worry about it. It is the<br /> same system as I have on my Contax RX SLR which is a manual ONLY focus<br /> camera.<br /> Including the old co-incident manual focusing would interfere with the<br /> motors moving the lenses since those manual focus setups actually move the<br /> lens as they are focusing. This would be quite a complex camera. On the<br /> other hand, it is no longer an option for a photographer not to understand<br /> how to use an AF system. Sure thaere are some people who resist technical<br /> advances. My grandmother would never think of getting into an airplane...she<br /> would take the train. There are those who don't use a computer, they stick<br /> with their typewriter. You have to know how to use both Auto and Manual<br /> Focus.<br /> Not only can I manually focus with the G2 but I frequently set the lens to<br /> its hyperfocal distance when I am out shooting on the street. I see hands<br /> waving frantically to remind me that the G lenses don't have DOF marks on<br /> them to set hyperfocal distance. This is true but it also is irrelevant. For<br /> example, if I mount my 28/f2.8 lens, all I have to remember is f8 and 5m...I<br /> set the manual focus to 5 metres and the aperture to f8 and everything from<br /> 1.9m to inf is in focus. For the 45/f2 it is f8 and 10m. Not so hard to<br /> remember.<br /> The G2 has a 4fps motor drive which is quite an advantage over manual film<br /> advance cameras. Also the G2's aperture priority mode must have something<br /> going for it or it would not have made its appearance on the new Leica M7.<br /> In the end, there is no need to be uneasy about the G2. There isn't anything<br /> that you can't do with this camera and...most important... the pictures you<br /> get are exceptional.</p>

<p><em>>>>the "battle of the giants," if you will, has been won<<<</em><br>

Darius, this battle really never took place. Only in your imagination. :-)</p>

 

<blockquote>

 

</blockquote>

<p>I shot with G2 and 3 lenses for the past 11 years, too, and with M3 + Lux 50 for the past 4 years. Each camera has its advantages and disadvantages, but I still keep both and recently bought Zorki-C with Industar-22 just for fun. They are all different and give different pictures due to different lenses. The process of shooting is very different with all 3 cameras.<br>

Sometimes I miss the focus with G2, too, but M3 is a bit slower to use. Right, G2 is a sofisticated P&S and M3 is a precision tool but who cares as soon and with either of them one is able to get excellent results.</p>

Great pictures, Steve!

More details: wantred to test the new-bought Zorki-C with Industar-22 and put the film Tasma FN-64 in it. camera needed CLA (the film was teared apart 4 times), so I gave up.

 

Then I loaded the remains of the film (approx. 15 shots) into G2 and I forgot to change the speed of the film. Automatically, G2 will set as 100 ASA unless the code on the cassette will help to identify the speed. I put it manually as 400 ASA long ago and forgot.

 

So, I exposed ASA-64 film as ASA-400, and after development I saw that was a mistake. The negs were rather thin. With Corel I doctored the picture and here what I got.

 

I am sending Zorki-C for CLA this week.

Petya 17 May 2008, Contax G2, 90mm, film Russian made Tasma FN-64 in D-23, scanned by Epson Photo 3200, processed in Corel.

Just wanted to add that it's better to use Kaiser Micro Computer in the subject of your mail, to be sure that I'd not delete it as a spam before reading. thanx.

Henk,

 

I just bought this thing with a manual (did not use it yet, but it seems to be working). If you, or anyone else want a copy of the manual, please send me a mail at flundra [sign] mail dot ru, or catpower [sign] proc dot ru.

 

if there is any permanent photo site where I can upload the scans, please advise. thank you!

Very nice photos, Frederick, thank you for sharing!

Sorry, I meant good luck to Jenny :-)

Nice picture, by the way and rich tonality. Good luck to Martha and you!

This is one of the best ever Picture of the Week thread with Ian the clear champion! :-)

I recently read about phenidone magical qualities, in particular, in some

two-bath developers.

 

After reading Ronald Moravets posting about short life of methol, I relocated

all my methol into small bottles and sealed them by tape, as was advised by Ronald.

 

I also have hydrochinone, I assume that I'll have to do the same to it, when I

have time.

 

What about Phenidone? Is it also prone to fast damage like methol? I did not buy

any of it, but tempted to buy and it's very very expensive.

 

Does anyone know about life expectancy of phenidone?

 

Many thanx in advance!

 

yours,

Valery

Dear Keith, thank you very much for help! I know about 1:1 should be discarded and I have official Kodak D76 documentation, I read it very attentively, yet I did not find an answer there can I use the stock solution several times without adding D76R (4-5 times during 4 months).

 

From reading the answers on this thread I got the idea what to do - dilute and then repack into smaller quantities with no oxigen inside.

 

Four decades with the same developer/replentisher is quite impressive but I'm afraid I'll not last for so long. :-)

 

cheers,

Valery