valery_yakushev1

Correct spelling was Erich Einhorn:

http://www.iphotocentral.com/search/detail.php/256/Erich+Einhorn/0/8758/1

http://community.livejournal.com/moya_moskva/272418.html

Many thanx everyone for help! I found a very useful advice from Ronald Moravec - to divide stock D76 into several bottles and use one for each developing session. The confirmation that one-shot is the way to go was also very useful to me.

I did Rodinal-only development for 5 years, then I discovered D76 which is more to my liking. :-) I still use Rodinal when I'm lazy.

I recently bought chemicals and will experiment with developers. I already did experiment with two baths developer, sort of Ansel Adams formula (7,5 g metol per 1 litre) but the result was very uneven - some shots were excellent, some awful. All negs came out with high density, though - maybe I made some mistake because people say the negs from two-bath developers should be thin. I cannot buy Diafine in Moscow, but I discovered a formula for home-made Diafine (I need to buy Phenidone to make it). I also found an interesting one-bath developer formula with Phenidone in a book written by Eric Einhorn (spelling?).

My question was solely about keeping stock D76, nothing else.

Erik Hattrem, a pack of Kodak D76 cost more than $3 in Moscow, and I usually use it to develop 1 film, which is a waste of resources, I guess. It's not only the cost of powder, but labor and time as well.

I develop appox. one-two 35mm roll of film per month.

If I'll dilute the powder of Kodak D76 in 1 liter distilled water, and after

development of one film I'll keep the solution in tight 1 liter bottle, how long

can I keep to develop more films?

I normally throw away the developer, using it as one shot, because I was

thinking I'd need a replentisher if I want to use it again. After some reading

on internet I see that people keep it and develop more films. My ultimate goal

is to develop 4-5 films with one 1 liter concentrate without using replentisher

-- is it o.k., or I shall correct development times each time for a next film?

or it is better to continue my practice to use it as one-shot developer, as

previously?

Another important question - should I keep D76 solution in the fridge or it is

o.k. in dark place under normal room temperature?

I understand that 1:1 and higher dilutions of D76 cannot be stored.

Many thanx for your help!

I have two neg carriers for V35, one regular and another one, for the prints with black rim around the full frame.

When I change neg carriers, I need to re-adjust the focus, otherwise it will be out of focus. Is it normal or something is wrong with the V35?

I recently bought M3 and Summilux 50 (last pre-ASPH version), all is chrome, quite heavy but beautiful. The lens arrived only 3 days ago and I now have my first film in the camera (Tri-X), need to finish it and develop to see what it is.

Me too, I am a Contax G2 user for the last 8 years (45,28 and 90). Shooting with M3 is a way different from Contax G, although both are 'rangefinders'. It's much easier with Contax G but more fun with M3. The viewfinder of M3 is fascinating. I have no plans to sell Contax G, it is also a nice camera and lenses are superb.

nice shots, Luigi!, I like No. 1 in particular

In No.3 you have a rather strong reticulation, intentional or not, I can only guess, but I do not think it makes a very nice bokeh... In any way, the subject in focus is immune to retuculation.

The lens arrived to Patrick on Friday, many thanx indeed!

8 years ago I asked my friend who was in Japan for 1 year to buy me a Contax G2 with a couple of lenses (it was much cheaper over there at that time).

He did bring me what I asked but he produced some bitter comment about the camera: "And for that much money you do not even have built-in flash! It's a shame!".

To Ronald Moravec --

Ronald, could you share your recipe for your own D76 soup, if possible, or a link to the place where it's described. I have old Russian photography books with recepies for developers, but none gives D76 (probaly, for patent infringement reasons). Many thanx in advance!

Many thanx, Carl and Rob!

I meant 'front retaining ring' when I wrote 'dial'. I just didn't know how to call it correctly.

I will watch out for ASPH on the lens and check Leica item numbers on the boxes.

I am not yet sure do I want ASPH or 3rd generation of Summilux 50 (pre-ASPH), with 0.7m focusing and telescopic hood, I will think about it for a while, reading and watching scans on the net (not able to make a test of two lenses to decide by myself). Anyway, it is very useful to know which is which. Thanx again!

I wonder if there is a rule that ASPH is marked on the dial on the lens? I

recently saw at eBay a black 50 Summilux M ASPH with ASPH on the dial, but I

held in my hands a brand new silver chrome Summilux M 50, also ASPH according to

the Leica dealer but I do not remember that ASPH was engraved on the dial?

Could anyone comment, please? Thanks!

Had the same effect from time to time on Contax G2. Did not worry much.

My recently bought M3 is yet without a lens, hunting for the lens is in full swing :-)

Well, I do not own a Leica M yet (although I bought an M3 about one month ago, but yet I will receive it either later on in August or in early autumn).

I have a Contax G2 with 3 lenses for 8 years now and plenty of excellent photographs to show, but I would love to see the shots on this forum made with Leica glass only, or at least, non-Leica glass with Leica camera -- that's why I do not wish to post any photo made by myself with excellent Zeiss G glass.

I fully understand the feelings of this members' forum who are irritated by the shots totally irrelevant to Leica. I think that any shots made by 35-mm rangefinder camera must be posted elsewhere, not here. They have a rangefinder forum, anyway.

I realise that this kind of 'outcries' took place many times before with no effect....

here's the thread I initiated not so long ago, and serials of M7 do not differ so much from serials of MP:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Gz0u

otheriwse, there are no internet resources with M7 serials.

cheers,

Valery