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jack paradise

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Posts posted by jack paradise

  1. With the metal reels the film is wound from the inside out while the plastic reels are wound from the outside. The only time the metal reels are easier to load then the plastic one is when the reels are wet.

     

    Take a roll and practice in daylight. Plastic reels need to be extended for 120 film.

  2. "If you're hoping to get a full frame DSLR for under $2000, you may have to wait for years"

     

    Canon and Nikon's flagship film camera sells for about $2000. Canon's top dslr sells for $8000. Nobody will convince me that there's $6000 worth of digital equipment is those dslr.

     

    It sells at $8000 because the world market is so huge that it can bear that price. Canon is king of the hill in that dept and they're enjoying their price gouging all the way to the bank!!!

  3. There must be at least a hundred bags that might fit your need.

     

    I had this bag that wasnt being used but now i'm glad I didnt get rid of it.

     

    Here's what a carry. A Lowepro Film Organizer AW. Yeah, that's right. It's small, lightweight has enough room for camera and a few gadgets. It has a built-in rain cover for those times your get caught without a warning. And it doesnt cost very much.

     

    Wear it with the strap on the shoulder or around your waist.

     

    http://www.lowepro.com/Products/Accessories/sliplock_cases/Film_Organizer_AW.aspx

  4. Frederic,

     

    One thing that may explain this is that a scanner can pull out details & tonality with a less dense negative than would be required for a darkroom print.

     

    It could be that darkroom prints and scanned negative need different exposure/film processing. Scanners usually do poorly with dense negatives.

     

    Just a thought.

  5. "Surprisingly I came to the conclusion that the bracketed shots around ISO 100-125 showed wider tonal range and better midtones separation than the ones made at 64."

     

    Was this observation made from darkroom prints or from film scans ? Btw, which scanner did you use ?

  6. Hi Peter,

     

    "We each have our preferences, and sone of us are happy containing our experiences, and some of us are happy expanding our experiences."

     

    I agree. For me "containing our experience" would be using an AF auto everything camera.

     

    "Heck, why not slap that auto focus lens onto the manual focus camera body with duck-tape, and have fun?!?

    Peter Blaise Monahon , jul 23, 2005; 11:57 a.m."

     

    Not for me. I have an Holga for that sort of things.

     

     

    "... and another thing ... how do you know the 100mm to 135mm Minolta manual focus lenses are not as capable of capturing as sharp images as the 100mm to 135mm Minotla auto focus lenses?"

     

    I'm sure the're all fine lens and one would not see any difference in prints to 9x12" or possibly even 11x14" It's when prints are enlarged past 11x14" that the difference is apparent.

     

    I go by tests done by Chasseur d'Images magazine. The Minolta AF 100mm and 135mm are a cut above their MD counterparts in imaging quality. But since you've mentionned that manual focusing is not possible with these lens, that settles the question for me.

     

    (I disagree, by the way.)

    You're welcome.

     

    "If you have personal experience, then you have (or had?) a Minotla auto focus camera with the lenses in question, and you have (or had?) the Minotla manual focus lenses in question, also, right?

     

    But you seem to imply that you do NOT have (or have not had?) these lenses."

     

    This is my first Minolta kit. I have used several slr camera body over the last twenty years, from 35mm to 6x45 to 6x7. My favorite was a Nikon FM2 with Nikkor AF 35/f2, AF50/1.8 and MF 105/2.5 These lens were so sharp that I was able to pull prints to 16x20" with the right films.

     

    "So, even if an auto focus lens were capable of testing to resolve a higher resolution, in the field (so to speak!), it may actually be easier to obtain better imaging sharpness from a totally easily manually controllable lens than from an auto focus lens with limited manual controls, eh?"

     

    I don't quite follow you here. I have used AF lens before (see above) on a MF camera. But of course the AF Nikkor lens were easely manually focused. I just thought I would be the same with Minolta.

     

    "I think you are really asking:

    - "What's the sharpest 100mm to 135mm lens for landscapes for my Minolta X-700?"

    Or perhaps:

    - "What's a useful 100mm to 135mm lens for street imaging with my Minolta X-700?"

     

    Nope. I was just asking is simple question. Can a Minolta AF lens be fitted to an X-700 camera body.

     

    "Also, for street, a nice, small, fully automatic auto focus, auto wind, auto exposure camera is unbeatable after all!"

     

    Maybe for small prints. But that not quite sharp AF really shows at above 11x14" They remind me of digital cameras that have all kinds of shooting modes for people who have no clues about photography.

     

    "Is there more about your challenge?"

     

    Ever tried street photography with an RB67 + 50mm lens on a monopod? That mirror slap makes people turn their heads from as far as 100 feet!

     

    Thanks for all your answers.

  7. Roger,

     

    I don't use zone focusing. I usually pre-focus the lens on an object across the street. Then later on, when I take a picture only minute focusing may be required. Sometimes not.

  8. Thanks to all who responded.

     

    Peter,

     

    I've recently purchased a Minolta X-700 camera from Titterington, along with a 28mm/2.8 and a 50mm/F1.7, all Minolta MD. These two lens are about as sharp as any lens.

     

    The reason I went with the X-700 is that I wanted a simple to operate manual focus and exposure camera. The only thing missing from this camera is a ML or even a mirror flip when using the self timer.

     

    However, some Minolta MD lens (100mm, 135mm) are not as sharp as their AF counterpart (Minolta AF 100mm/F2, Minolta AF 135/F2.8) But, I'm not about to get yet another AF camera to use these lens or even get a zoom lens. Hence the post to this group.

     

    I do natural landscape and cityscape with some street photography. All b&w, no color, digitally printed to 13"x19" (sometimes larger) on acid free cotton paper.

     

    The Minolta X700 is uncomplicated (no manuals needed), a joy to operate and it gets the job done. I'm really starting to enjoy photography once again.

     

    The 100mm to 135mm lens is for street photography. I usually work small and medium size streets shooting with a pre-focused lens to the other sidewalk. It's fast, unobtrusive and AF not needed. Camera noise goes unnoticed. When I want close, I use the 28mm lens and work same sidewalk.

  9. "I've got a 50mm f1.7 Minolta and a Panagor 28mm f2.5"

     

    I don't know about the Panagor 28mm. Is this a re-badged Kiron ?

     

    The 7 elements Minolta MD 28mm F2.8 is really nice. I'd need some pretty hard convincing before I'd let go the Minolta 28mm MD for a Panagor. But maybe you know something I dont.

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