paul_poropat

<p>Hello Glen. The "B" indicates BULB, as long as you hold the shutter button or cable release or air bulb the shutter will remain open. The "I" indicates instantaneous, on older folders that could be 1/25 to 1/50th sec.</p>

<p>Hello David<br>

I would like to see if I can get the Olympus winder 2 working.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Last I heard from John himself was 4 months ago. He explained that he is now the factory service for Tamron Lenses and has scaled back on vintage Olympus due to demand on his time. Odd that you would not hear from the man himself. Hope all is well, just busy.</p>

<p>Thanks Greg I am well versed on the operation of these flash units (been using them since '75). Specifically I am interested in the full auto TTL operation through the E-500 and E-600 series DSLRs. Just wondering if the Oly TTL contacts interconnect between old film and new digital technologies.</p>

<p>Is it possible to use Olympus T-32 or T-20 with the four thirds cameras and maintain the full auto flash exposure as I have am used to with the OM-2, OM-4? Thanks</p>

<p>I am continually amazed at the accuracy of my IIIf RD. I use this and several 50 to 80 year old camera and lens shutters to test my digital shutter speed tester. Of course mine is a small sample, but still... accuracy to -1/4 stop across the entire shutter speed range. I am very impressed!</p>

<p>The best lightblocking material I have used is a metal foil tape. there are lots of examples, aluminum foil or stainless steel foil duct tape (available at a local hardware store), metalized mylar tape may be found at automotive or hobby stores. Almost anything metal foil will block light better than vinyl tapes.</p>

<p>Shoe 4 has the extra 2 electronic contacts to allow flashes T-20, T-32 and others to show sufficient flash power for correct exposures in the OM-1n and OM-2n viewfinder. The basic hot shoe will function to fire an on-camera flash but without the viewfinder confirmation.</p>

<p>To all who have problems sourcing thin metal or plastic material. Go to www.mcmaster.com. You will be able to search SHIM materials in steel, brass, and plastic. Sheet sizes vary, 10x10 inch. I always check McMaster Carr for the odds and ends I always seem to need. You may also check hobby and modeling supply. We have a local store that has been in business for 50 years. So much materials and boxes you literally have to creep sideways to move about the isles. They have a smaller selection of tubing and sheet materials. Good Luck.</p>

<p>The very first thing you need to do is to remove the battery cover. Sparingly use a solvent if necessary to break free of any corrosion. Use care on the coin groove on that battery cap, you do not want to loose it's edge, you loose torque. Then find or better, purchase known fresh silver batteries. Only then you can proceed with an evaluation.</p>

<p>I agree with the others as to clipping the sharp corners. Even a slight bevel is easy to do in a changing bag. I have been using this quick and easy modification with my Patterson System 4 tanks for decades. Easy loading is all in the leading edge.</p>

<p>Right here on Photo.Net. On the above tabs, hover your cursor over the EQUIPMENT tab. A drop down list will appear, Click on the CLASSIFIEDS bar. The classifieds page will open with a list of actions along the upper area above the listing of items. Select the PLACE AN AD, and there you go! Just fill in the description and price.</p>

<p>Here is one thing to consider: Your source of light from your smartphone. LED light as from a backlighted screen does not have a very wide spectrum. There is a very sharp and strong peak in the blue spectrum with small bumps in the green, yellow and orange. Our vision compensates very well to this nearly monochromatic light source.</p>

<p>Here you go. See the attached portion of the instruction sheet.</p>

<p>Thanks. I have some HC-110 on hand. I am surprised though that the rated EI of 125, I expected older film to be maybe 100 or 80. Well it may be a while, as I have much cleaning to do.</p>

<p>Hello folks, I just received a nice 120 6x6 folder manufactured from 1950 to 1954. The point is that I carefully (and in complete darkness) removed the film from inside. There may have been one or two exposures made. I can find no film name or type printed on the start end of the roll. In darkness I rolled through to the ending of the roll and on the closure tape was printed in a scrolling type "Panchromatic" and with the regular block type is "exposed". Again, no manufacturer, no film type. The backing paper feels quite heavy, a kind of sandy yellow background color. The spool is metal with the "120" in two places on the spool flange, on both flanges. Can anybody identify this film? I would like to use the remaining film and process it to see what may be "found exposures". Thanks</p>

<p>Stephen...This rangefinder is oriented horizontally, no adjustment. The mounting foot is secured to the rangefinder body by a casting (part of the body). It seems to be the manufacturer's intent to have the rangefinder "look" a few degrees off of the camera lens axis. I thought it may be for a parallax feature. Not! as it aims away from the lens axis. Anyway, the rangefinder body can be lifted upward and rotated in any direction. It's just that the default (by the casting and foot cutouts) is off axis. Just wondering if anyone knew if this is intended.</p>

<p>Hello folks and happy new Christmas classics. Along with an Olympus Six, I received a Waltz accessory rangefinder. It cleaned up very well. I removed the endcap and performed a calibration. Now it is perfect. My question to you is: Why is the rangefinder not aligned along the same (parallel) axis as the lens? The rangefinder body casting is in pristine condition. The foot that slides into the accessory shoe is canted appx. 5 to 10 degrees away from the lens axis. This is not caused by damage. The foot has machined notches that fit the body casting, all fitting is firm as intended. So... back in the dark ages this was for a reason. Can someone enlighten me? Thanks</p>

<p>Hi Leyla, These Pen half frames are quite fun and easy to operate. The designer Mr. Y. Miatani, intended the camera to be as easy to use as a pen (hence the name of a whole series of Pen cameras) This is the basic point and shoot of the early 1960s. If you have asa 400 type film, you must set the asa dial on the camera (I believe it is a collar around the base of the lens) This must be set with each different film you acquire. This sets the cameras internal exposure circuit calibration. You do not need to set shutter speed (there is only one appx. 1/50th sec) The camera selects the aperture according to the available light, (hence the name "EE" for electronic exposure) Keep in mind that this camera is known as a "half frame (or single frame) the negative is one half the size of a regular 35mm camera. This will give you twice the number of photographs per roll of film, if you have a roll of 24 exposure film, you can get 48 pictures on that roll. Use this camera outdoors in bright light for best results, if you see a red flag in the viewfinder it means that the scene is too dark. Focusing is by estimation, you need to set the lens distance to what you estimate the distance to your subject. Yes, when you start a new roll of film, you start the film leader on the take-up spool, hold the spool with one hand and wind the film with the other hand, if you are confidant you have a good and secure start, you may close the camera back. Now you need to make a few wasted exposures to get the good unexposed film ready for the desired good photographs. These are great little cameras and easily operated one handed. Have fun!</p>

<p>Hello folks, Does anyone know if the Olympus OM series eye cup and verimagni will fit on the E-620? Thanks</p>

<p>Thank you all. Since I am in no hurry, I may just sit on the sideline and wait for an opportunity. I had not considered the Pen series, I may research further.</p>

<p>Wayne...That was my first good laugh of the day. I am impressed with every roll of Elitechrome 100 I run through my Voigtlander Perkeo.</p>

<p>No problem, I just tried a standard modern cable release on my 35 EC, 35 EC2, and 35 ECR.</p>

<p>There are several important features to know before ordering the replacement potentiometer. Physical size, lead orientation, full scale resistance, adjustment orientation. Also be aware of your skill at soldering! John is right about Mouser, they will have something that will work, just get your specs correct.</p>

<p>Hello All. I am considering a purchase of a used Olympus E-600 or E-620 or E-5 to use my legacy Zuiko glass. I have a wide range from 21mm to 600mm. Some of my favorites are the macro gear, bellows and extension tubes. Now I am quite happy to use my OMs, though I would like some digital output as it seems the best (currently) way to share photos. The question is... will the used equipment selection and pricing be more advantageous to a buyer before or after everyone gets new gifts? Thanks for your insight and experience.</p>