nasser1

<p>Thank you Alan!</p>

<p>Dear all, yesterday I developed 2 sheet of 8x20 film, but I could not know why the film base (surrounding unexposed area) is not clear (dark)....! is it because of the hardening fixer?</p>

<p>Developer D-76, kodak Hardening fixer<br>

Thank you in advance<br>

Nasser</p>

 

<p>All my understanding was that these small fly eyes in these cameras were reflective! Now I understand! So thy work as an SLR camera? </p>

<p>I've seen Rolleiflex Tlr users use a white plastic sheet on the camera meter! I've used My rolleifex-f without this diffuser thing and have no problem with exposing my film.<br>

What does this diffuser could help me with?<br>

<br />Nasser</p>

<p>Yesterday night I wipe the dust from my analog projector! I went through my Lieca m6 50Velvia! I really injoy the great dynamic of these slides! it was like real thing. (just a comment)</p>

<p>Thanks all for the help.. Allen! Yes your right! It did leave lines in my 8x10 negative from the back side unfortunately </p>

<p>Hi everyone! I do have BTZS tube and develop 8x10 in it using Pyro max developer, and did like the result a lot!! Iam planning to develop my 11x14 in BTZS tube but is not available! Would someone tell me what size pipe do I need for my 11x14 please? I would appreciate your help.</p>

<p>Nasser</p>

<p>Thenk you Jeff, I have seen this nice double sided printable papers at H&B, "Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Book and album", but did not know if these are the adding paper or the cover. If those are only paper, where could I find the cover for it.</p>

<p>I had an album that I bought from some photo store 13 years a go, and do not remmamber, the album is really great in make.. its not like those types of stick and cover, it is an album that you have to stick the photo with 4 sticking corners or by gluing the photo. the album is upgradable, you can add as you want of papers, each paper has 2 metal edges on tow sides of the paper, so the photo would be in between the 2 edges, and that would help not to flower the album book after stuffing so many photos in it. I am really traying to find this type of album, it also nice to be a portfolio book.<br>

Any help would be nice of you<br>

Nasser</p>

<p>Video is clearer then photos... Thanks Q.G.</p>

<p>I have never seen a Hasselblad SWC, no dealer around would sell this camera.. I really want to see a photo of the camera healed by hand for size comparison. I would appreciate your help, cuz am thinking of buying one, and size matter. <br>

Nasser</p>

<p>Is Richard Misrach still uses his old format? I took a look at some samples of his new book "Distroy this memory", and what I knotes is photos with less dynamic look, and a slight distortion at the photos! Am I missing anything?</p>

<p>Just great! Taken with Velvia?</p>

<p>Hi Every one,<br>

I have dificulty finding the right information about F&S 11x14 film holder measure. Is all 11x14 F&S have the same film holder fit? Do you think I can use Fidelity Medical casset film holders for Folmer and Schwing 11x14 Camera?</p>

<p>any information is helpful<br>

Thank you all in advace<br>

Nasser</p>

<p>What I know that he uses a 300 Fujinon L lens for his capture (desert cantos). I used this lens and it was smooth in contrast, all my photos that I shoot with this lens are not contrasty, is like a painting.</p>

<p>This is too late from me to answer… but it is good for information. I use Potassium Oxalate, at that time when I first started printing Pd, I was so disappointed about the tone not to be warm enough, by time and experience, my negatives become better and faster to print do to experience and faults. I stopped using too much oxidizers to fix fault negatives, then I knots improving in the tone to be warmer and has a strong nice brown tone. Because the negatives are thin enough and yet contras is good so no too much oxidizer to use. <br>

good luck</p><div></div>

<p>Peter N! Is the photo "Planes of focus" taken with flash? </p>

I just got my PMK kit from Bostick and S. , this is my first experiance! when I

photograph for pt. pd, I rate my 400Tmy at 200.

Now! to develop, I red the instruction says part A:1, part B:2, and water:100.

would any one tell me is that right for my Tmax? any commants are helpful. I red

articls in the net but its not clear for me. Thank you in advance.

Well, I thougt about that at the begining! but most of the time who experiance the thing would know the (how hard it could be).

Hi all ULF people!

 

I have an 8x20 K.B. Canham view camera, what I want to do is converting the back

to 12x20, with the ability to switch between the 2, so I would have a 12x20 with

the 8x20 back. Well, I dont know if I can just order parts and install them at

my house, because I live in Abu Dhabi and it a lot of maney sending the camera

back and forth overseas.

Have any of you converted an 8x20 to 12x20?

I have an 8x20 camera that I want to install a velvet rebbon for it.

who can fix a velvet rebbon for me? how much in $?

I have a Canham 8x20 brand new! it leaks light btween the film and camera.

Thank you Ronald,

I forgot to mantion that I am doing this for platinum and palladium printing..

I was wounduring if I could even put the shadow under zone 5!.. I am looking for a more dens negative.. and wounduring if the development could be OK for 20 mintes because both lighting are fulling between 3 to 5.. wich make the Kodak tmax (20 min development) mater is a must for what is in Dick Arnetz's book!

would you (Alternative process) people helping me finding the right process

for the fallowing situation:

 

I am shooting with 400 TMAX. I set my camera on a tripods, load my 8x10 film

holder after viewing the seen and adjustments and all that, take off my

exposure meter and looked at the fallowing: a big tree in the med afternoon

with too much details in its shadow that I would like to catch, in the same

time I don't want to miss the great looking buildings in the background.

 

well I am doing a negative with a great contrast to mach the tone scale of the

Pt.Pd. paper..

 

the shadow of the tree that hold the details under it falls at zone III, and

the background (the buildings)view falls at zone V.

 

what would you do guys? and how about the process mater if it would be with

Kodak D76?

would you (Alternative process) people helping me finding the right process

for the fallowing situation:

 

I am shooting with 400 TMAX.

I set my camera on a tripods, load my 8x10 film holder after viewing the seen

and adjustments and all that, take off my exposure meter and looked at the

fallowing:

a big tree in the med afternoon with too much details in its shadow that I

would like to catch, in the same time I don't want to miss the great looking

buildings in the background.

 

well I am doing a negative with a great contrast to mach the tone scale of the

Pt.Pd. paper..

 

the shadow of the tree that hold the details under it falls at zone III, and

the background (the buildings)view falls at zone V.

 

what would you do guys?

and how about the process mater if it would be with Kodak D76?

well.. thats an idea! :)

 

by the way.. what a chance I just was whatching your pictures at Alternative Photography! there are great prints! Specieally the Satista prints.. well I dont know this process really!

 

good luck and thank you Philippe