fred_haeseker

<p>I don't know your location, Arthur, but I've had good luck with the Kiev 4A I bought from Fedka in New York. I don't know if Fedka still offers repairs, but Yuri, the owner, is a nice guy and may be able to give some advice:<br> http://www.fedka.com/Frames/Main_Frame.htm</p>

<p>A CLA is always a good idea, but if the camera is working smoothly (no grinding noises, etc.) and you like the results, I think you can hold off on this for now. Check for any indications of trouble as you continue using the camera. I have a 1951 IIIf that had its last CLA decades ago but is still working as it should.</p>

<p>Hi William, I don't know how much of a novice you are but Mike Butkus has a handy short manual for the M3 on his website:<br> http://www.cameramanuals.org/leica_pdf/leica_m3-02.pdf<br> Congratulations. The M3 is one of the most sought-after of the M series.</p>

<p>If you actually want to shoot with the camera, there is a complication. It takes 616 film (same as 116 on a spool with a narrower flange). These formats were discontinued in 1984 -- they are slightly wider than 120 film, which can be used with some ingenious fiddling. This link explains:<br> http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/116_film</p>

<p>$150 for a Contax IIa is a very good price, depending on condition -- shutter working and reasonably accurate? film advance (includes shutter cocking) smooth and accurate? shutter curtain intact? etc.<br> You don't specify the lens. The 50/2 Sonnar was standard on these cameras, worth the price alone if in good shape. The camera also came with a 50/2.8 Tessar, less common, cheaper and not as sharp, but still a good lens within its limits. Again, condition is crucial.<br> As far as I know, few or no technicians will work on this series of Contaxes. Too complicated and parts hard to find.</p>

<p>An Argus 75 was ny first camera, bought new when I was 10 (shows my age). I chose it because the viewfinder was bigger than the one on a Brownie Hawkeye, also because it looked cool. As in the OP's example, results were surprisingly good. In those days 100-125 ISO b&w film was the norm, worked well in sunny or bright overcast weather.</p>

<p>Hi Clare, Mike Butkus has a manual for a Super Ikonta 6x4.5 on his website that you might find useful. The camera may not be exactly the same as yours in some small details, but operating it will be the same. The Super Ikontas are great cameras, easy to work once you get used to them. The Schneider Xenar lens on yours is the equal of the better-known Zeiss Tessar IMO. Here's the manual:<br> http://www.cameramanuals.org/zeiss_ikon/zeiss_ikon_super_ikonta_1x2.pdf</p>

<p >If I just bought a Hasselblad my wallet would be empty too. In your place I'd be looking for a second-hand light meter, now not hard to find and cheap unless you go for a top-of-the-line model. Example, for $20:<br> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Toshiba-Linear-Light-Meter-SKU1576-/221722895561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item339fb6e4c9<br> I'm not suggesting you buy from the auction site -- classified ads on photo forums for instance are a more dependable source. If you're lucky and there's still an old-fashioned camera store nearby, it will have some light meters, and you can do a quick test: on a sunny day, with the meter set at ISO 400, it should read around 1/500 at around f/11-16; at ISO 100, around 1/125 also at around f/11-16.<br> No two meters will read exactly alike, but if in good shape they should be close. I've found meters like the Toshiba on the auction site (if working right) perfectly adequate, especially with negative film. Make sure the meters take batteries that are still available. Some take mercury batteries, which are now banned.</p>

<p>I just had a look at my 35/3.5 Summaron, a great vintage lens, but it has the usual 180-deg, focusing throw.</p>

<p>Andrew, here's a link that shows a Skopar lens taken apart:<br /> http://forum.mflenses.com/voigtlander-braunschweig-anastigmat-skopar-105mm-f4-5-repair-t41439.html</p>

<p>As far as I can figure, a miniscule (fraction of a mm) swing movement of the lens standard shouldn't make a visible difference in the final result. However, I just checked my 2x3 Crown, virtually identical to the Century, and found no play in the lens standard. This makes me think one of the infinity stops on your camera may be a fraction of a mm out of alignment.<br> Forum member Charles Monday may weigh in on this. He is the expert on Graphics and Graflexes.</p>

<p>Gaffer tape is useful in many situations (I always have a supply), but if left attached too long it will always leave a residue. The residue can be cleaned off with a common household oil like 3-in-1, but you don't want to use that anywhere near a camera.</p>

<p>The figures are about the same for me now except for more wide-angle shots and faster shutter speeds. Of course I began shooting in the '70s, shows my age.</p>

<p>Hello Donald: Just wondering -- do you cut 120 film in some way to manufacture DIY 828 film to use in the Bantam? I've seen info on how to do this, seems labor-intensive to say the least!</p>

<p>I use the IIIf my father left me, with the collapsible Elmar 50/3.5 or the Summaron 35/3.5. Fits nicely in a large jacket pocket.</p>

<p>I had a C330 with 3 lenses and many accessories, then after many years it developed film transport problems. The last local technician who worked on mechanical cameras had retired, so I did some hunting around, found a C330s body (last Mamiya TLR model) and I was back in business. The price was probably less than the cost of repair.<br> I used a friend's C22 for a while and found it perfectly satisfactory. I suspect I'd be happy with any of the C models.</p>

<p>The Pentax 67 is indeed designed for 120 film. Benjamin -- if you're interested in selling those 620 rolls, please send me a PM.</p>

<p>The distance scales on Mamiya TLRs are not that accurate and awkward to use. I've used C series cameras for years without ever looking at the distance scales. The scale around the focus wheel on YashicaMats is more useful, but even then I've only used these occasionally for focusing at hyperfocal distances.</p>

<p>I have a 35/3.5 PC-Nikkor, same vintage as the one illustrated in the Nikon ad and still working perfectly. A very sharp lens. It's great to be able to apply shifts while using the camera handheld!</p>

<p>Just the essentials for my IIIf and MP-4 -- lens hoods, various contrast filters for B&W, 21mm accessory finder.</p>

<p>Leica IIIf with 50/3.5 Elmar and 35/3.5 Sunnaron.</p>

<p>Hi Cory, just out of curiosity, what did you use to get the fungus off? I gather you were at least reasonably successful.</p>

<p>I have an M4-P that came with a shoe-mounted Leica MR meter. Unfortunately the meter takes the now banned 625 mercury batteries, but I found ir worthwhile to spend $25 on an adapter. I've tested the meter, and it's dead accurate.</p>

<p>I have an ancient 12-in. lens mounted in a Betax No. 4 shutter and found a good video for doing a CLA on one of those:<br> http://vimeo.com/27569972</p>

<p>M4-P with 35/2 Summicron.</p>