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fred_haeseker

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Everything posted by fred_haeseker

  1. fred_haeseker
    <p>I still have and use an FT3 I bought new back in 1977, still going strong. One nice feature is that it takes the still available S76 etc. batteries instead of the banned mercury cells common for cameras of similar vintage. I like the odd shutter-speed ring that surrounds the lens; some don't.</p>
  2. fred_haeseker
    <p>From your picture the screen + metal frame on a C33 looks identical to the screen + frame on my C330, but I may be wrong. If I were you, I'd get in touch with Rick Oleson, who makes screens for various TLRs. He'd be able to tell you for sure. His e-mail address is on this page:<br> http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html<br> I see he makes screens for the earlier C models like the C33. I've dealt with Rick -- he's a nice guy, very helpful.</p>
  3. fred_haeseker
    <p>Another possibility is the classified ad section of various photo forums (like this one) and especially the Rangefinder Forum. Readers of these will know what you are selling and will ask intelligent questions. </p>
  4. fred_haeseker
    <p>Should be OK. There's a thread on batteries for the FE2 here:<br> http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00beEn</p>
  5. fred_haeseker
    <p>Another possibility is Rick Oleson. I'm very happy with the screen for my 1950 Rollei Automat that he sent me a few months ago. He mentions that his screens are not up to the standards of Beattie or Maxwell screens, but then his price is much lower ($35 inc. shipping). He lists the Bronica EC, ETR and S2 with some cautionary notes:<br> http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-175.html<br> Nice guy, easy to communicate with.</p>
  6. fred_haeseker
    <p>Thanks for the upload, Marc. I just got a 1951 Rollei Automat, and the Rolleiflex article is a nice addition to my user manual.</p>
  7. fred_haeseker
    <p>You might want to look at the Cosina-Voigtlander rangefinder series. I've heard that the shutter is not as quiet as a Leica, but the lenses are just fine (I have one). They have a Leica screwmount and if you really want to economize, they will take the Russian LTM lenses except for the Jupiter 12 35mm (won't clear the shutter curtain). Here's the CV website:<br /> http://www.cosina.co.jp/seihin/voigt/english/range-f.html</p>
  8. fred_haeseker
    <p>I taught a b&w darkroom course at an artists' society. Lots of interest among people under 25.</p>
  9. fred_haeseker
    <p>A General Electric DW-68 (made in the USA!) and a Sekonic Studio S incident meter. Both accurate.</p>
  10. fred_haeseker
    <p>Here's a link to a users' guide:<br> http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak/kodak_duo_six-20_ii/kodak_duo_six-20_ii.htm<br> Mike deserves that $3 contribution. His site is a great resource for those of us who like to use old cameras.</p>
  11. fred_haeseker
    <p>By coincidence a post appeared today in the Analog Photographers forum that linked to a page by the reliable Rick Oleson. It shows a number of easy ways to adapt the common, cheap 675 hearing-aid batteries:<br> http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-111.html<br> Jon Goodman, linked to on Rick's page, is also very reliable. I've used a couple of his light-seal kits with excellent results.</p>
  12. fred_haeseker
    <p>Going by the serial no., the camera is a Leica II made in 1936. Can't tell which lens, has to be seen from the front. Stephen Lewis' evaluation seems about right. Everything depends on condition. You might also look at the completed listings on eBay.</p>
  13. fred_haeseker
    <p>The best advice I've ever found for any kind of photography is to look <strong>into </strong>the camera, not <strong>through </strong>it. You're making a two-dimensional image, so try to see whatever the viewfinder shows as if it were projected onto a flat surface.</p>
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