chromatic-aberration

Alvin, you say that as if it's a bad thing.

Hubris (hyōō'brĭs) - excessive pride or self-confidence; arrogance.

Is it true what they say? Once you go Barnack, you'll never go back?

Alvin: What can I say, it was late, and Elmar looked kinda cute. I'm photographically promiscuous. I admit it. I've even been seen in some less savory parts of town with a Holga on my arm.

I'm happy to report that I am now the proud owner of a nice little IIIc. I've

seen conflicting information on the internet regarding the serial numbers. Is

403556 a 1946 or a 1947 vintage camera?

 

Also, can anyone help me date a Elmar 50/3.5 with the serial number 391608?

The one page I know of doesn't seem to be loading at the moment.

Nee... It all depends how your brain works. We're all wired differently.

I'm quite fond of my Retina I (type 119).

Annoying my wife in the stairwell...

I've come across a number of references to the rangefinder version of the Kodak

35 being introduced to compete against the Argus C3, but nothing that actually

says when they introduced it. Does anybody know? I've got a 1946 dated example

in my collection, but I haven't really had a chance to do my own survey.

Provided there was some magical way to recover images from it - the infamous bag of film that was accidentally dumped overboard that contained nearly all of the film shot during the Normandy landing.

David... Ultimately, if bayonet mount bulbs were introduced in the 50's, that indirectly answers my question. I've got a 1941 C3, and I was trying to tell whether or not the the flash that I had from the other brick would be an anachronism on it.

This flash came off of a 1956 Argus C3:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/eiserneskreuz/apr07/P1000326.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v505/eiserneskreuz/apr07/P1000327.jpg

 

Does anyone know when this model flash came into existence?

I've seen mention in a few different places on the forum that Fomapan 200 should

really be shot at about 125-160, but I haven't seen any recommendations for

Fomapan 100? Does it shoot true to the speed on the box, or should I be making

some sort of adjustment?

I have an old Olympus XA2 that lives in the glove box of my car, and a Panasonic FX-01 that I use as a pocket camera. Depending on your budget, you could always look at a larger P&S that would still fit in the briefcase and give you some of the benefits typically lacking in the dinkier models.

I have no idea to what extent it appeared on camera equipment, but there was was another marking roughly equivalent to "patent pending" that appeared on German manufactured items made before the end of WWII. -- D.R.G.M. (Deutsches Reich Gebrauchsmuster)

I'd imagine that most people that upgrade from the 1.8 to the 1.4 don't bother selling the 1.8 simply because of the resale value. It's cheap enough that if you've already got it, you might as well hang onto it as a back-up.

<i>"For instance, if someone ordered NOOKY and left a letter out so that the cable read "NOKY", it would be easier to determine the dealer wanted NOOKY."</i><p>As juvenile as it may be, that sentence just made my day.

DRP = Deutsches Reichspatent

JC - The PDC-3080 is digital.

I use a pair of LR44 batteries in my Pentax ME, and they work just fine. They're quite commonplace, and are a lot further from extinction than a lot of other button batteries. The ME is aperture priority, and without battery power, it reverts to a default 1/100 shutter speed.

Cross processed?

The D70s is 250v, for what it's worth.

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Given that, it makes sense. I came across some photographs that were taken with the B+W, and the false color effect was a lot more pronounced than what I'm used to. Almost psychadelic. Makes sense with that little bit of additional light sneaking in. I've used an R72 on a number of different cameras, and the effect that photographer got made me wonder if it wasn't all just a matter of different cameras processing things differently.