chromatic-aberration

...and another:<div></div>

Just got the test roll back today. Somewhat hit and miss, but a lot of that is me. I have to work on my own mental rangefinder mechanism if I'm going to use a camera like this. The triplet lens gave a very vintage look to the photographs, but it flares if you think too much about the sun.<div></div>

...and another:<div></div>

I just ran a roll of Ilford 100 through my Beau Brownie, and pretty good results. I used the largest aperture setting, in mid-day California sun. 200, or maybe even 400 would give you more latitude. The results were good, but I can't figure out how these cameras were usable with 1930's film speeds.<div></div>

Ihagee Exakta VX IIa

You'd have thought that they'd have actually used a Luftwaffe eagle for a "Luftwaffe" camera...

The 50/1.8 is a great lens, but it's a rather limited focal length to start out with. The 18-70 would be a lot better bet. If it weren't for the crop factor, and the 50/1.8 actually had the same coverage as a normal 50mm on a full frame / film camera, I'd lean a lot more heavily in that direction. (If the 35/2 was sold at the same price point as the 50/1.8, I'd recommend that for the APS format digitals.)

There are a number of really photogenic beaches between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay.

That camera would allow for a different approach to street photography. You could just hide behind it.

HIE works just fine with a Red #25 filter in my experience, and a #25 is light enough that you can still see through it to focus with an SLR. It would be a different story with a more opaque filter, of course. The #25 is a heck of a lot cheaper than the opaque filters too, which is nice. One thing to keep in mind is the need to load the camera in a darkroom or a dark bag, so the loading of the camera is an important consideration.

Stumbled across an ancient thread here... $2.70 adjusted for inflation to 2004 would be about $19.

I've seen some examples of the IIIf that have the film reminder on the advance

knob marked with ASA and DIN speeds, and some that list ASA and Weston film

speeds. Does anyone know if that indicates the intended market of the camera,

or was it something that changed across the board during the production of that

model?

There's a strange little knob on the bottom of the camera, in the same place where the advance knob is on the top. Does anyone know what it might do, as the intended purpose isn't readily apparent?

...and here's the plate on the back:

She finally arrived in the mail today! Possibly the most violent folding camera I've ever owned. One push of the release button, and springs open like a switchblade on steroids. It looks to be quite a nice little camera, and I'm going to try to run a roll through it in the next few days.

The manual you show says Ia and IIa. That's probably the answer right there.

I wonder if anything can be read from the differences between my Watson and the one on the Western Photographic Historical Society... Mine has the flat disc shaped knobs more like a Kodak Retina type 117 or 118, in addition to the relocated viewfinder and the accessory shoe.

 

Anybody know if Steinheil lens serial numbers can be traced?

I'm mainly interested in the history, as that's the one thing I can't find from monkeying around with it.<div></div>

Does anyone know anything about the Watson 35 made by Welta? I haven't been

able to dig up much of anything on them, other than that it was a version

(possibly an export version) of the Weltix.

Looks like some sort of WW2 vintage aerial camera.

I wish I could reliably find them for that price.

I stumbled across a working Model 650 Weston Meter this morning at a local flea

market. How much is a meter like this worth?

<i>Is there a purpose of a Holga?</i><p>

 

Yes, but I'm not sure if that purpose was actually put there on purpose.<p>

In all seriousness though, a Holga is an unpredictable beast that occupies a very specific niche. I wouldn't recommend it for general experimentation with the 120 format. For that, find something that actually gives you some control.

<i>It's not a bad toy for that price, but for $81 you could buy a lens that works.</i><p>

Doesn't that sort of defeat the purpose of a Holga?

They might actually, if they prevent holes from being burnt in your shutter curtain.

 

Seriously though, I just like 'em. If you're going to go to all the trouble of using an antique camera, it seems only appropriate to minimize the obvious anachronisms you stick on it. I wouldn't put spinners on a vintage muscle car either.

 

I've got a history degree. That's just the way I roll.