sgpix
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Posts posted by sgpix
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Yes - the VD brush is very good... unless it brushes oil in the chamber on the way down! :(
Thanks for the links - should be back in action for Xmas...
Simon
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Oh - and an FYI to anyone else who might not know... apparently this is a known problem with the 5D caused by excessive oil in the chamber contaminating the brush on the way in.
I wish I'd read about it before!
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Just went to clean the dusty sensor and my ViibleDust brush has left a
greasy 'smear' on the sensor... i must have touched someone's hand or something.
What's my best course of action - back to Canon? Or is there a suitable
consumer product that can remove this?
f22 image is below - makes me go cold to look at it. I've only had the camera
a couple of weeks!
Thanks for all help!
Simon
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It does a bit! :)
As that info is in the metadata (lens length, actual focal length used), it shoul be possible to search it using some specific software (no idea what, but I'm sure such thing exists) or by using a script in PSCS2/Bridge...
Simon
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Thanks Steve!
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I think this is a really broad and subjective topic... I can only recommend reading Peter Krogh's "The DAM [Digital Asset Management] Book"... I have found it enormously helpful.
Sounds like you might, too...
Simon
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I thought that the non-64bit product (CS2) could only handle 2gb of RAM per application.. can it handle 4gb for PS alone?
Perhaps I misundertand the previous post...
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Glad to hear you've had a result, Peter - but be careful 'hot' plugging/unplugging (ie. while on and connected to Windows) via Firewire... not same as USB1.1 or 2. Pretty good chance of data loss...
Cheers
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As long as data isn't important and you are running XP or 200, try the following... it MIGHT work:
1) boot up PC and HDD
2) unplug USB cable to HDD
3) wait for the 'bi-bong'
4) plug it back in again (kep powered up and windows running)
5) wait for the 'bo-bing'
6) try re-accessing
I've got to say it's more likely that you've either got a corrupt sector or a corrupt partition which is (in my opinion) a reason to reformat and start again.
I would also never trust that drive again and, personally, stick in the bin - unless you are very unreliant on it.
Sounds as if you have a very sensible backup strategy, as you aren't entirely reliant on this one - nice one.
Simon
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I never used the A-DEP function on my 20D as even as a beginner I have always found it as easy to use a stopped-down aperture and th DOF preview if necessary... it's even faster!
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Make sure you buy an LCD with all the adjustents you need (eg. RGB correction, contrast, brightness) as some only have a basic gamma correction slider.
As with CRTs, there are good, bad and ugly in LCDs... I had a couple of shocking Dell monitors that were so bad I gave them away. I now have a Philips 200W that is pin sharp and easy to calibrate (using a Spyder, in my case).
Be aware that it's your video card that defines what resolutions are supported and a new one could be pretty cheap if you aren't interested in a mega-gaming solution!
I also suggest getting a card with either 2x DVI outputs OR a DVI (for main monitor) and an analogue for a secondary monitor. a second monitor is incredibly useful for viewing software toolbars, image browsing software, keeping an eye on email etc. etc. You probably won't be able to calibrate both monitors (unless you have dual video cards) so you will need to pull any images onto main monitor before looking at them with an eye to colour...
Simon
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I don't use either of those lenses but the 50mm 1.4 is on of mine and pretty wide-open... I avoid mis-focused shoits by using single point AF and re-composing when necessary.
I know multipoint has it's uses (AI Servo and moving targets etc.), but I'm a big fan of single point AF for this very reason!
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I have one - very simple to use and work very well... I have a kit, but I think the butterfly would do the job equally as well...
Simple!
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Thank you very kindly - super-helpful!
Yes, I agree - I LIKE the Canon B/W algorithm :)
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BTW - downloaded that Kent's Conversion file, Pam... what do I do with it now? Can't seem to find any other similar file ytpes in the PS folders...
Thanks!
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Pam - that's nice looking conversion...
My camera B/W settings are out of the box (3, 0, N, N)... to be faire, the original was quite dark (I didn't exposure compensate in RAW conversion deliberately, but it was set to Auto and did add some)...
Perhaps my conversion technique just needs to be better! At least by shootin RAW + JPEG I've got the options (that was the thinking, anyway)
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OK - here are those samples... hope this link works!
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Sorry to be a dullard, but I can't post any samples until I work out how to do so... give me a little while!
To answer question re. conversion techniques, I have tried two:
1) open colour RAW file into PSCS2 with white bal correction and a linear curves setting, add a levels adjustment layer, then add a black nd white gradient map layer. Adjust red, green and blue levels individually until visually happy with contract and tone, then flatten image. Finally convert to grayscale from RGB.
2) open image, go to chanel mixer, set to gray, adjust channels individually as above. change image to grayscale.
I admit it's pretty basic - I'm not an advanced PSCS2 user and I haven't tried selectively adjusting images with dodging/burning etc. yet...
Simon
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I've not long had my 5D and have been playing around with shooting RAW + Mono
JPEG shots. So far, I haven't been able to better the internal B/W JPEG
conversion the camera does with PSCS2 and channel mixing conversions on the RAW
image. In fact, I reckon the B/W images straight out of camera are great!
Am I wasting my time? Should I just accept that the Canon alogorithm does it
realy well and be happy that my B/W workflow can be some far reduced?!
Simon
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OK - so there isn't a file browser any more... it has morphed into Bridge. Use that instead - you'll find it pretty simple to use as a simple browser... open it up and have it minimised in the background while you are using PS...
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I believe that Bridge has replaced File Browser in PS now... if you have the whole CS2 suite, it's there already. If you buy PSC2 stand-alone, I'm not certain if you get it packaged or if you have to buy i separately...
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Any object or surface with low contrast and/or no defined edges for the AF to pick-up will provide focusing issues (on any camera that I have owned)...
I would suggest either using manual focus (set to infinity will be a fairly good bet for sky unless you are trying to capture some very low altitude clouds) or to aim the active AF area/point at an edge of the object/surface at a suitable distance and then recompose for the final shot... eg. at the edge of a well-defined cloud, or a light switch on the wall you are trying to shoot.
If there are NO objects at all, I think manual focus will be your only option...
Simon
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Nope - so we're all in the dark then! Makes you wonder why Canon waste time 'launching' a product that clearly doesn't exist...
Next for the EOS 1Ds MkIII... due sometime before year 3000...
<GRIPE MODE>/OFF
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Let's all have a guess when Canon will finally launch these... and for how
much.
Announced several months ago at Photokina, supposed to hit stores "early
November"...
So far... nothing. Not so much as a whisper, dicky-bird or rumour.
Any guesses (or insight), folks?!
A way of saying thanks!
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
Wow - very kind! Count my name in the draw!
Cheers
Simon