sgpix

Henry - I had a 5D that locked-up, but in my case NOTHING functioned.

It doesn't sounds like your issue is going to be user-fixable, I have to say (mainly because you've already methodically tried most things I would think of!)...

Where are you? Damp climate? "Hardly any use" could be a cause of evils as well, in my experience. Was camera stored in a bag? etc. etc.

Sounds like a job for Canon Man, I think...

I'm with Bob - it looks like something oily left by a sensor brush, or similar. I've done MUCH worse myself with a 5D before I realised that the 5D chambers are often very oily!

Some ViibleDust specialist fluid and pads etc. did a 100% great job for me. I also use Eclipse fluid for regular cleans.

There are loads of threads and sites showing you how to clean - 1st time requires stiff drink (before AND after)... 2nd time the stiff drink is optional, but many prefer to take it anyway :)

And, as has been said, technically, you are not cleaning the sensor anyway - but the high-pass filter in front of it.

Good luck!

What software are you using to 'navigate' the files on your card?

Are you plugging the camera into your PC directly, or using a card reader?

William - sadly, I don't have anyone nearby with the 50/1.4, no... I have same issues with my copy on both 5D and 20D.

It's possible I'm being overly critical due to the fact that my 70-200/2.8IS is so good, and the 24-105/4 is almost as good... but I'm close to selling the 50 and replacing it with something (maybe the 85/1.8) else because of the AF performance.

Steve - no great mystery... the 50/1.4 hunts like billy-o in even mid-light situations. When I change to the 24-105/4, it locks on to anything with the slightest contrast difference to it.

I believe theory would have an f4 lens performing less favourably in AF terms than an f1.4 one.

Maybe I'm unlucky with my 50/1.4 copy, but a few reviews tend to suggest it's par for the course.

Before you rush out and buy more glass, just be aware that individual lens models (as well as bodies) have varying AF performance. Of course, in general, the faster the lens the better the AF characteristics, but my 50/1.4 absolutely SUCKS in low light AF and I often change to my 24-105/4 which rarely fails me despite the F/stop diff.

It's also worth setting AF point selection to centre point only (highest sensitivity) in low light, which I also find helpful.

Simon

Not as far as I know - it's the same as some focal lengths being regarded as 'telephoto'...

Wide angles lenses do have their own challenges in terms of barrel distortion, vignetting with filters etc., however...

Do you shoot in RAW or JPG? What post-processing software do you use?

These example shots look to me like fairly high contrast and with quite a bit of deliberate 'noise'/film grain. Easy to achieve!

Matt - practice focusing, locking and recomposing shots. This will allow you to compose whatever you want without the in-focus subject necessarily being central (or where your selected AF point is).

This way, you can select the centre focus point and still do what you want to do.

The only time you will find this doesn't work at all is when using AI Servo AF mode and shooting moving subjects, but there are techniques that help here as well!

Simon

Chaps - thank you so much for the many, detailed and fast responses... they are all much appreciated.

Kenko tubes and possibly th Phoenix macro (and a new wife!) it is, then :)

I'll post a few attempts on my gallery to make you all laugh!

Cheers

Simon

DeLoyd - are you using AI Servo focus mode? If not, you haven't a hope of capturing a moving subject in focus.

Personally, I also recommend using centre AF point only and practise your 'targetting' bu I know others will suggest that multi AF point gives better results. Try both, I say!

I would certainly try and get your technique technically right before considering buying another lens. I'm sure in time you will find 300mm too short for bird photography, but practise by shooting the family doeg (with a camera!), or similar, with what you've got first. Then get it right for birds. Then spend money on more focal reach.

And don't forget - the camera body is doing all the focusing, so make sure you know all about that as well as the lens.

Good luck!

I have had to stop looking at the 10mm/2.8 Macro since my wife laid down the

law about amount of expenditure going on photography! So - I still want o add

Macro to my list of things to learn but need o do it more cheaply (in the first

instance).

I know that I'm no going to get the SAME quality, but given my lens and body

line-up beow, what would people recommen in terms of the various other types of

macro "converters" (eg. close-up filter, extension tubes, lens

reversers/vouplers) and on what lens(es)?

I'm pretty general about what I would like to take, but it would be more

plantlife and abstract close-ups than insects.

Thanks

Simon

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EOS 5D

EOS 20D

Canon 70-200/2.8L IS

Canon 24-105/4L IS

Canon 17-40/4L

Canon 50/1.4

Canon EX2x II

Hi Chris - what I was talking about is two-fold:

a)that most lenses are designed for full-sensor/film - ie. the 17-40mm was design edot be used as a 17-40mm... so it won't perform as originally designed on a cop body;

b) that it will only be 17-40mm on a FF/film body... on a 1.6x crop it will be a 27-64... on a 1.3x crop it will be a 22-52mm. ie. it won't perform as wide on anything other than FF bodies...

Not a critisism - just a statement of fact.

Sami - I think you've already ordered one and are awaiting delivery... so you are obviously suffering the usual post-purchase anxiety!

I used one on a 20D and it's a good lens. It's BETTER on the 5D, but it's still good on the 20D. To be honest, I don't think there is a super-wide lens that really does what it should do on a crop sensor...

Hi Mary Beth

This must be the single most asked question on this forum! It almost invariably comes down to a choice between the two L lenses, if they are affordable to you... my personal choice was the 24-105, as I liked the extra reach and already have other fast portrait lenses.

Suggest a search and you will find 100+ other points-of-view on exactly the same topic!

Cheers

Simon

So now I'm really learning somthing - thanks, all!

Looks like I need toi brush up on some articles and learn to start using manual focus in some instances (I never do at the moment!)...

Still no M40/80!

From a PR point-of-view, they might hold something big back until last minute (or at event itself)... I know how so many of you are gagging for a 40D, or a 5D Mk II ;)