sgpix

Hmmm... I know I'm guilty of NOT RTFM, but I've been using a 5D set to centre point focus with 24-105/4L and 17-40/4L, as well as some faster lenses for about 6 months... I've not had any more off-focus shots than usual...

So what does it use when set to centre-point with 2.8 or above?

Not that I've ever done it myself, but I am sure the number of people who travel to NYC, take a trip to B&H, lose the packaging and forget to declare anything on the way back through Heathrow must get higher and higher every time companies try to penalise us for living in the country woth the worst climate in the world.

Particularly with such attractive excahnge rates and ?300 returns to the Grande Pomme, as well!

My initial response is that portraits of the kids outside and landscape photography are two very different requirements...

For fast-moving subjects (eg. kids!) that you want to capture unawares, I would say that the 200/2.8 would be great, although I favour zooms for flexibility of composition vs. a bit of sharpness myself.

For landscapes, I would usually carry something much wider (17-40/4L for example) as lens speed is less of an issue (unless your lanscapes are moving?) and you are looking for width of shot, unless you are focusing on a specific object...

I realise that this may be outside of budget, but I use the 70-200/2.8L IS as a 'reportage' portrait lens often and it's a stunner... but I still wouldn't use it for normal landscape shooting.

If you really want one lens that will do both, and are prepared to pay for quality, I would look more towards the 24-105/4L or the 28/70/2.8L. I can recommend the former as a great walkabout lens... I don't own the latter, but it receives similarly positive reviews from pretty much everyone.

Simon

Ah - the old 5D dust issue :) There are loads of posts and helpful advice on this... give it a mega clean and then you'll be fine, is the basic synopsis.

I bought a 5D on top of my old 20D, which I have kept as it's resale value doesn't equate to a new lens. Even if you aren't a commercial photographer, I reckon a backup is worthwhile!

It depends where you live, Staci... in the UK, there aren't many reailers and the evil auction site is popular choice...

If you are in the US, I believe somewhere called KEH.com is very popular...

By "bird", I take it you mean the feathered kind? :)

I would save any pennies you can by buying body only for one thing - the kit lens is not good at all IMO.

I don't think the 2x TC will work at all/properly with the 70-300. Even if it did, you'd get pretty 'soft' results at 600mm with the 2x TC.

I also don't think that 300mm will be enough for bird photography, to be honest. I would think that 400mm is the starting territory for such things, but it's not my arena to be fair.

At this focal length, you are looking at som pretty expensive glass (as the cheaper end tends to run out by 300mm)...

What's your budget?

There's a few threads on the ue of extenders around, but immediate issues would be:

1. Loss of sharpness when using one

2. Which extenders will work with those lenses (I'm not sure the Canon ones will?)

3. Reduced lens speed (ie. max aperture) when using an extender

4. Loss of AF when using some extenders on some lenses (not sure about your ones)

In general, I would suggest buying a longer lens if you need to do longer work, but cost can be a significant factor of course!

If you aren't going to get into wildlife photography, perhaps 200 to 300mm would be fine for you and there are some inexpensive lenses that will cater to this length (don't forget you are getting an effective 1.6x the focal length with your camera versus, say, a 5D in any case) so an extender could be an unnecessary addition.

I suspect that you have accidentall selected that single AF point using the AF opint selection mode, rather than it being stuck on it. I don't have a 350 but the manual will reveal all if you look under "AF point selection"...

I do have a 580EX, though... what is blinking? The flash ready light, or something on the display? Or do you mean that the flash itself is firing?

I'm not sure about the firearms-based answers, but then I live in rural England!

Personally, I would be as upset about someone stealing a five pound note from me as my 5D + white lens, so value doesn't some into it. But that doesn't mean you can stop it happening!

Get insurance and if someone threatens your health or your family's health because they want your camera, just give it to them. It's a lump of metal and plastic and can be replaced (by the insurance company).

Of course, if if you have a 70-200 and a battery grip on it you could swing it at them and probably remove their head! :)

Just like it says - I often see people referring o hiring lenses and equipment

but I've no idea from whom... can anyone share some recommendations?

Thanks

Simple answer... no!

If you have the 70-200 2.8L IS, it already focusses at near-lightspeed in any case :)

I also hace dust above the screen on my 5D... it annoyed me at first but I ignore it now! I think some sort of tool is required to remove and replace the focussing screen and I don't have one, so I'm sticking to the devil I know...

From what I've read, if yoiu exchange there's a good chance you'll have same issue again so that's probably a strategy for frustration as well.

I'm starting to think that the dust problem with 5Ds was/is a clever piece of marketing from Canon to promote the 400D's dust removal system! :)

Be aware that the market is awash with fake SanDisk cards from China currently as well... I had one and it worked bu twas SUPER slow. Very convincing to look at and it took SanDisk themselves to confirm that it was fake from the serial number...

The basic message (re. fakes) is buy from reputable, large retailers and if it's really cheap it's also fake!

I live in UK and own 5D and 20D. I prob change lenses a couple of times a day and need to clean the sensors about once a month due to dust build-up (evident at even mid F stops).

However, if I LOOK for dust I usually end up cleaning there and then! No idea how effective the 400D cleaning system is, but my understanding is that it 'shakes' dust of the sensor... if that's the case, then the particles are still in the chamber so will reattach pretty sharpish I imagine. Sounds like more of a gimmickto me, I'm afraid...

I've never had this prob either... I even get correct focal lengths when I use a 2x extender (ie. a 200mm shot plus extender is a 400mm shot)...

Dirty lens/camera mount contacts?

Another vote for B&H (I went all the way to NYC from London to buy mine there!)...

This lens is so good it will scare you. It focusses at the speed of light and the images it takes are sharp enough to cut glass at one hundred paces.

Don't forget that it's already effectively a 112-320mm when used on the 20D. That said, the extender will prove very useful.

Make sure you understand the 2 different IS modes before using it to shoot moving subjects - on is for standstill and one is for panning. I think you will require the latter (mode 2).

Putting anything other than high quality filters on such a lens would be daft - budget for B&H Pro-MRC or Hoya Pro type ones. I use a skylight on mine just to protect it (but there are schools of thought against this - mainly around lens flare) and a circular polariser. You won't be able to get to the polariser with the lens hood on, though - it's pretty deep!

I would also buy a proper lens case for it, unless you already hve a big kit bag, as the Canon one is (IMO) pretty shoddy. I have a LowePro case that fits it like a glove with the lens hood on and reversed.

Enjoy!

Thanks people - bu no screws loose! Odd that it refuses to go onto the 5D but fits smoothly on my 20D...

Guess I'll be taking both to Canon then...

Cheers!

I recently had to exchange my 5D body due to a fault and my 24-105 f4L will now

not fit the new body... red dots line up, mount locates, it turns about 10 deg

or so (to the point where most lenses start to feel a bit 'tight') and then

stops dead. No amount of reasonable cajoling will shift it.

All my other lenses fit the body perfectly - the 24-105 was always quite tight

on the old body but I put this down to the weather seal on it. There is no

visible damage to either the camera or lens mount.

Any ideas?!

Thanks!

Simon

I had similar problem - 5D died by then came back after about 3 mins. did it three times. I exchanged it at retailer...

No line of complex electronics can ever be without the occasional lemon!

It can be done with a copyright template that can be setup in both PSCS2 and Bridge... I also have an 'ingester' that applies copyright info and renames files straight from the card.

Check out a book called "the DAM book" by Peter Krogh for one solution - I'm sure there are more...

As far asI'm aware, it can't be done within the camera itself and needs to be a software solution.

Cheers

Unlike Peter, my 17-40 came with the 83E hood and my 24-105 came with the 83H... I wonder why the difference?

Interestingly, I have noticed significant vignetting with the 17-40 on a 5D fully open, but I took that to be the aperture rather than the hood... anyway, to answer your question:

My 17-40 with the 83H (which is deeper, but smaller in diameter) is 136mm ion length (not incl. the mount) and 105mm wide at the widest (ie. at the hood)...

Hope this helps

Simon

I use a 2x with the 70-200 2.8 IS and you do lose a lot of sharpness (although the lens is so ultra-sharp in the first place images are still above par, IMO). Apparently, the 1.4x is much better from this POV.

I have been tld that you also lose AF if wider than f5.6 - but as the lens will only run to f5.6 with the 2x, I've never understood the relevance of this?!

I find the 2x a good solution for things like airshows where the action can be a long way away, but it does no often come out of my kitbag to be fair... mainly because I can't stand to spoil the super-sharpness of the naked lens!