sgpix

Interesting question - you have effectively come out of the deal with what you wanted... Canon may not take the same view of having their kit 'deals' split by dealers in order to increase margins, however!

I bought my 5D from Park Cameras - no problems of suspicious behaviour. They even swapped it out with no significant argument when it started switching itself off randomly.

Simon

I think Ross has captured the motivation for the post here:

If you are waiting/hoping for Canon to launch the 4D, 0.5D, 5-800/f1.0 lens, etc. it's frustrating when they don't!

Sadly, the life of the speculator will always be a frustrating one...

I'll answer this from a slightly different POV - as a qualified pilot, rather than a photographer...

No.1 - you'll want to be in a high-wing aeroplane (or if you are in a helo, they are all high-wing!) unless you are taking shots of other airborne subjects. So, a C172/182/helo would be best. A PA28 or similar will be of no use to you at all...

No.2 - as previously stated, any basic training a/c will be far more cramped than you expect, so changin lenses etc. will be difficult. The pilot may also no be keen on you faffing about too much unless it has been previously agreed. They almost certainly won't want you putting bags on the floor in the front and balancing equipment on the dashboard.

No.3 - ensure the pilot knows what you are planning to do. They probably won't appreciate being asked to orbit a particular site or fly past a site in a particular way unless they expect you to do so. Best discuss and agree on the ground rather than debate it once airborne. Of course, a helo is more versatile than fixed wing in terms of hitting and holding a particular path, so you might want to consider this.

No.4 - having done a bit of aerial photography, I suggest that longer lenses give a better result than wides (although it's obviously very much down to what you want to shoot) as your view is already pretty 'wide' from 2500-5000ft. Perhaps you could hire a 70-200/2.8?

No.5 - don't spend so much time shooting pics that you fail to enjoy the flying. It's one of life's greatest pleasures :)

Simon

Could be almost anything... need more info!

Software? Shooting RAW/JPG/both? Trying to output to what file format?

The subject(s) you are pointing the lens at won't see what colour it is in any case... only that it's got a fat piece of glass in front! They will see the size of the body though, and that tends to cause the reaction in my experience.

People are going to notice something the size of a 70/200 2.8 slung over your shoulder even if it's black and attached to an XT!

The more self-conscious you look, the more self-conscious you'll feel...

Bill - I have the 70-200 2.8L IS USM, but not the 85mm 1.2, so take this as you find it...

But I suggest it depends on your style... if (like me) you like to shoot 'natural' moments as they occur rather then try to set shots up, a longer focal length will be helpful as, like you say, you can distance yourself from the subject(s).

Also, if you are further away, the ability to frame a shot using a zoom is helpful. And the sharpness and bokeh etc. etc. of the 70-200 are lovely.

That said, the 85mm sticks out less like a bulldogs' proverbials and will give you a few stops more low light shooting (ignoring the IS compensation for this purpose). And if you like the effect of having a subject's eyes in fosus while their nose and ears are blurred, then f1.2 is for you!

Personally, I'd love to replace my 50mm/1.4 with either an 85mm 1.2 or a 1.8 if money's too much of an issue.... but I would always have got the 70-200mm first as it's more versatile and offers stellar quality for a zoom. And a fast one at that.

Just my two penneth'

Simon

Sorry, but I'm also going to add "more of the above"!

Another reason to restrict yourself is so that you save and ONLY buy good lenses once you know what variety(ies) you want from your timew with your 'practise' ones. ie. Don't spend money on cheaper lenses that you then outgrow and have to sell/trade at a loss to buy the good stuff.

By doing the same as you, I have only ever got rid of one lens (the kit one my original 20D came with)... the rest of my inventory has stood the test of time (even if my amateur talents don't)!

Simon

I hate to say it, but the clue is in the question... If it looks too good to be true (you clearly think it does) - then it almost certainly is!

The gray market is disapearring fast (except for us Brits buying US stuff at a brilliantly daft exchange rate!), so I'd guess they are duff in some way.

Simon

Before we even get going here, I'm not knocking the SUBJECT of these questions

(I've asked most of them myself), merely the FREQUENCY of them...

Surely we can post some "sticky" responses - or links to previous responses -

down the right hand side of this (and other?) forums for commonly-asked

questions?

I think most that would fit this category are obvious, but people may wish to

add more below? (And if this topic itself is second-hand, my apologies - but

I've not seen it before!):

a) 28-70 2.8L vs. the 24-105 4L IS

b) do I need to/should I/how do I clean my sensor?

c) should I buy now or will there be a 5D MkII/6D/4D/401D/410D/1DMkIV/50D/0D/-

3D Etc. available tomorrow?d) will the xxx/yyy CF card work with my aaa/bbb

camera?/should I bother with the latest 1'100'000x card for my 400D?

To be fair, some are not ubiquitous in themselves, but could do with some

clarity before the average posting:

1) "what lens should I buy?"

2) "what's the meaning of life?"

OK - one of those was a joke... :) But there are such good articles on most of

the repeat topics available on this (and other) websites, I wonder if we could

point people better (and more forcefully) at them rather watching them come up

again and again?

William - there's only one way to prove it to yourself:

Take your camera body into a store and ask to test fit any grip you want. If it works, and the price is right - buy it.

If any part of the above is unsatisfactory (or the store won't let you test fit as they, at least, are convinced that it won't fit), move on to another grip and/or another store until you find the one you want at a price you are willing to pay.

Done?!

Simon

Stefano - what software are you using?

When I shoot RAW+JPEG using either a 20D or 5D, I get the same experience as Bob... ie. 2 distinct files showing up on the card.

Sure you aren't shooting RAW only (in which case you can still CREATE a JPEG, so nothing's lost!)?

Note that when shooting RAW + JPEG you only see one file in the shot preview on the camera itself, just in case this is causing any confusion?

Simon

Hi - what do you want the filter for?: to add some effect/compensation to the images or as protection for your pricey inventment?

Personally I put good quality (B+W multi coat, or Hoya Pro multi coat) UVs on all my expensive lenses for protection purposes... but there is another (quite popular) school of thought that says any filter can cause flare and even vignetting (although not the latter on 85mm, I wouldn't think) and that the lens hood is the best way to protect your glass...

I'm sure you'll get a balance of both these below.

If you are looking to compensate/create effect, you'll need to say what you are compensating for or what effect you are trying to create?

Cheers

Simon

Another option to setting a custom WB is to shoot RAW, include a neutral/white card in a selection of shots and use Camera Raw (PS) to adjust.

You can copy/paste RAW WB settings across similarly lit pics.

Best way, in my experience... (if you use PS, of course!)

Simon

Note: Eclipse recommend that the original ("Eclipse") and not E2 is used for a 5D...

http://www.photosol.com/cameras_bymfg.html

Simon

I also have a 2x II, and a 70-200/2.8 IS. I also have only used the TC about 5 times.

However... when I consider that I have only used the TC that many times (usually at a track day or airshow, so you might argue sharpness is less of an issue than in wildlife) I would consider buying a 400mm prime (or zoom) an even bigger waste of cash for such seldom useage.

Am I prepared to sell and miss the occassional trackday/airshow shot? No.

But you might think differently. TCs certainly go for good money on eBay, or you might even consider a 100-400/4L for that reach if the 400mm prime is too costly. I don't own either so I can't compare.

Good luck

Simon

Do you mean the 30D? The D30 is quite an old model...

I believe the 30D has a "bulb" mode that will allow any exposure length you want. Use of a remote release will help keep your finger from getting sore as well! In fact the upmarket Canon one (can't recal model no. but it does auto time-lapse etc.) might even time long exposures as well?

Simon

I won't repeat what's said above - but in addition, I advise against using Auto WB as IMO it gets it wrong about 80% of the time. If you do most of your shooting during the day, outside you could do what I do and permanently set the bright daylight setting and do the final adjustments in Camera RAW software. Or set whatever WEB 'mode' suits the majority of your photography...

If you are using Adobe Camera RAW (other may also do this) you can use the eye-dropper to select a truly white area and it will set the WB according to this (rather like the bespoke setting process on the camera itself). Takes about 0.5 seconds per image!

Simon

I was unaware of his issue until looking at this thread. As I recently cleaned my 5D sensor/filter with Eclipse (no damage that I am aware of), I did some Googling.

Here's a compatibility chart that suggests Eclipse is fine for the 5D. I make no guarantees of its accuracy or authority, though!

http://www.photosol.com/cameras_bymfg.html

Simnon

Another thought: if you are a serial updater and imagine yourself going to a full frame DSLR anytime soon, you might want to consider this with your glass choice (as lenses tend to outprice bodies!)...

With this in mind, a few more considerations:

* L lenses will be more important on a FF body from a quality point of view (FF uses entire lens rather than the centre 'crop')

* EF-S lenses don't work on any existing FF Canon bodies (I don't think).. certainly not the 5D anyway. Of course, the 4D/3D/whatever may be able to use them...

* You effective focal lengths will change between a 1.6 crop and a FF body. eg. If you LOVE the 50mm length on a crop body, you may find yourself looking for something like an 85mm if you go FF...

Good luck and enjoy

Gerry's right - I misread your post and thought you have a FF body...

One thought though: B+W filters are expensive... if you think you might go FF at some stage, it might still be worth buying the skinny one...

Cheers

I get vignetting wide open on m 5D/17-40 f4 combo using the full-fat B+W polariser... so slim would be preferable yes. I think they area few dollars more, but you'll get better results.

I use the PSCS2 vignetting correction a lot on RAW images - it also works well but so much the better id you can get it right 'in the camera'!

Cheers

Hi again, Ian - th system doesn't appear to be working, so I've cut and pasted the content of my email below...

Cheers

Simon

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For "dry" cleaning (ie. dust, not grease or stubborn marks) I use a VisibleDust static brush kit (not sure what it's called, but the Arctic Butterfly is same/similar). There are a few specialist shops in London that sell them, or you can buy them online from the Canadian manufacturer I think as well. They are pricey-ish but good and their after-sales care is very good as well (sent me a new spinner thingy for free when I dropped mine and broke it).

For "wet" cleanihng (ie. using fluid to shift the stuff not covered by the above), I have used VisibleDust swabs coupled with their SmearAway fluid. This was, however, to shift a particurly nasty grease smear (see below!).

Common practise is to use Eclipse fluid (all online decent photo stores sell it) and PecPads or the VisibleDust Swabs. The Eclipse is basically very pure alcohol, but beware using a homemade concoction (certainly not good whisky) if you are minded to try and save a few pennies. This method is what is often referred to on photo.net as the "Copperhill Method". If you search there are loads of good links with pics that will boost your confidence. It's really not that bad as long as you are not totally ham-fisted. If you are, call Canon Man!

Warning re. grease smears: the 5D has a reputation (deserved in my experience) for having too much mechanical grease/oil in the camera chamber. I put a horrific looking smear across my sensor/filter using a dry clean brush when I had owned it for all of a week. It nearly gave me a heart attack. As well as spending c. ?70 (!) on cleaning products to get rid of it I also used a chamber cleaning fluid to ensure it didn't happen again and that I could "dry|" clean with confidence in the future.

The only other thing to say is never do the f22/white wall test to check for dust. It will drive you insane as you will ALWAYS have some. Stick to f16 and only do it if you actually start to notice dust spots on your pics (which all look very nice, BTW)!

Hope this helps - feel free to come back with more questions if you think I can be of assistance